In Haynes the tool looks like the T-key I used to have in my van for lifting "Silent Knight" man hole covers All it seems to be is a length of rod with a handle one end and a T piece the other - stick it through the clutch cylinder hole, turn through 90 degrees and give it a good tug. Shame Haynes doesn't give any dimensions (they're usually good at that too )
Umm, 1/4 inch is what, 8mm? How about some 8mm threaded rod from B&Q, bend the end to 90 degrees and cut it so it's 1/2" from the back of the thread to the end of the hook so it goes through the hole in the release fork, and bend the other end to 90 degrees so you have a handle? Insert, turn 90 degrees, pull.
Either that or sweet talk the mechanics at your local Pug dealers to borrow the tool for a couple of hours...
Captain Jack wrote:I may be talking bollocks but can you not get a hook with a thread from the likes of B&Q/Focus?
Probably not in the dimensions/shape/strength/bolt thread I need
Another thing to try is hooking some steel wire rope (used for holding up poles and stuff) through and winching that onto some kind of a spool (or pull it with something). Once engaged, you can simply remove it.
oooooh! Dunno about getting hold of a small quantity of that, but I'm sure 3-core copper wire will have a suitable tensile strength
Oooor I wonder if I could get my chain oil filter strap (for use with 1/2" ratchet) round it... and then get it off when it's locked in. Hmm. Best avoid it.
I'll try some mains cable - thanks
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
steve_earwig wrote:Umm, 1/4 inch is what, 8mm? How about some 8mm threaded rod from B&Q, bend the end to 90 degrees and cut it so it's 1/2" from the back of the thread to the end of the hook so it goes through the hole in the release fork, and bend the other end to 90 degrees so you have a handle? Insert, turn 90 degrees, pull.
I've got a strong L-shaped bit of metal Jasper left here, but it's too tough for me to bend a handle into it. I think another vitally important part of the peugeot tool's design is the fact that it locks into the fork instead of just hooking it. The fork wants to come towards you so when going for the hook'n'slam, it moves so much there's very little room to slam it from
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
steve_earwig wrote:Vice and mig welder added to your Christmas list... Got a blow lamp?
I really do want a vice, mig welder and blowtorch, along with an angle grinder, stud/screw remover sets, overalls (running out of long sleeve t-shirts), pry bars, and a 4lb lump hammer. And ratchet spanners. And deep sockets. And a puller. And allen+torx sockets. And some of those heavy duty garage floor tiles. And.... half the Machine Mart catalogue to be honest
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
I used some 12AWG wire (27 amp, 2mm copper, 4mm with insulation), hooked it through the hole, tied it up, then twisted it tight and used a spanner to pull it. Seemed to lock in. Put the slave cylinder in, bled it (I hate bleeding that thing) and solid. Took the slave cylinder out and the release fork was free
So I took some more wire, hooked it round again, threaded it through a 1/2" UJ socket adapter, tightened it until it snapped violently (LOTS of pressure - probably about 50Nm on it!) and guess what? The damn fork's still free!
I'm at my wits end with this
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
Captain Jack wrote:How did you do this on your first clutch change?
First time around, the locking clip got deformed as the release bearing was fitted to the clutch off the car... I put it on too tight which is why it went in easily but failed to hold and I'm having to re-do the job now
Hmm given the collar on the pressure plate that this thing locks into hangs loose, I wonder if gravity is my enemy here. Perhaps it may go in easily if I run the engine...
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
turning the engine by hand while keeping the fork tight didn't work, I chickened out of running the engine while shoving my fingers in it, and now I've had to call it quits because my hands went numb with the cold.
Think I may have to admit defeat and pay someone to come round and sort it
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
Have a word with the Foreman mechanic at your local dealer (or any dealer that will speak to you, don't ask for service, ask for the Foreman), explain your situation and ask if he has a possible solution.Only thing I can think of is maybe use a slide hammer with a hook on the end to fit through that hole in the fork. I know it aint easy.
Oh yes! I forgot, there is a Master Tech on the 407 owners forum, his mobile number and email address are published there, maybe try to have a word with him.
Success! Took the gearbox mount off, dropped the engine a few inches so the slave cylinder hole's accessible from the side, wrapped some spare coax cable from my recent sky tv installation around the fork, and pulled HARD using a foot on the gearbox for leverage... CLICK!
Pedal works
Just got to put stuff together now then re-seal the sump and I should be able to drive the thing!
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
All it seems to be is a length of rod with a handle one end and a T piece the other - stick it through the clutch cylinder hole, turn through 90 degrees and give it a good tug. Shame Haynes doesn't give any dimensions (they're usually good at that too 
)
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