DIY Clutch

[djheath]

Right.... Sorry for the rambling length I just need to get out whats on my mind!!
1999 XU7JP4 D9 406 1.8 lx 16v Cable clutch.

I have just paid £167 to have the rear engine mount replaced. I have already replaced the top two mounts and thrown in a new clutch cable for the fun of it. YET! I still have the judder problems when pulling away in first gear so I can safely say for sure that my clutch/release bearing is buggered. In fact I am now pretty certain its the release bearing as I can hear a slight grumble when sitting idle which goes away when I press the clutch.

As mentioned in a post a while back, the cheapest clutch replacement quote came out at around £370 which was from Mr Clutch - the previous owner used them to replace the clutch 20,000 miles ago, so I am reluctant to take it to them again if its just going to wear out quickly. I want to replace it properly which means paying for the privilege and with decent garges quoting between £550 to £640(main dealers), that is a big hit for a clutch kit which costs £70! The car isn't worth £640 but it is also not worth selling for the sake of a £70 part! I also cannot stand paying someone to do a job I haven't even attempted to do. (see note above on £167 rear mount! That really is a git to remove! (First defeat ever!))

Looking though haynes it all seems pretty straightforward to remove the gear box and then replace the clutch and bearings. I have changed CV joints before so removing the drive shafts shouldn't be a problem. I have all the tools and nothing sounds too much of a challenge in theory. I consider myself a competent diy mechanic.
So... is it really that bad? People keep saying you have to remove the subframe, but there is no reference to that in the haynes book. Is that true?
What could go wrong?
If I go for it, what should I change whilst I have everything apart? - inner cv joint covers, oil seals?

Any pointers such as - "better you than me", or "go for it, its an easy job" would be most helpful! I would plan to do this over a few days taking it slow and easy - one day remove gear box - next day do clutch and put it all back together again etc.
Any advice would be great.

Thanks for reading.

[Harshan]

Hi DJ,

since your car is petrol you don't need to remove the sub frame, this is needed in diesels most of the cases. remove the air cleaner element and piping, battery, battery cover box (you have to remove the shafts and CVs before this to take the gearbox out). This allows you to clearly see and access the gear box mounting. Provide a support to the gearbox at this point and continue. Remove the gearbox mount and then the shaft which connects the gearbox and the gearbox mount (shaft with the threads to attach the bolt which holds the gear box to the middle of the mount). Then you have to unscrew the bolts which attach the gearbox to the engine housing. Bingo, you're ready to take the gearbox down.

[djheath]

Hi DJ,

since your car is petrol you don't need to remove the sub frame, this is needed in diesels most of the cases.

Thats good to know!

Thanks for the reply. See it all sounds pretty straightforward and simple.

I suppose the hard bits are when you cant get bolts undone or when you find the last bolt is actually some massive sized torx screw where you have to refit everything just to drive down to halfords and get the tool!

[steve_earwig]

In fact I am now pretty certain its the release bearing as I can hear a slight grumble when sitting idle which goes away when I press the clutch.

Isn't that the wrong way around? They usually only complain when they're doing something. Maybe the cover. You won't know 'til you get it in bits of course.

The judder could also be oil contamination - crank or geabox input seals.

[djheath]

Isn't that the wrong way around? They usually only complain when they're doing something. Maybe the cover. You won't know 'til you get it in bits of course.

The judder could also be oil contamination - crank or geabox input seals.

I don't think its oil contamination. There is no sign of oil outside the engine and the clutch doesn't slip at all when driving. I can drive at 30mph up a hill and whack it into 5th and it will still go up the hill, although not for very long! I am not losing any engine oil.
It does whine a bit when driving although not very noticeable - so I assume this is also the bearing.

Have I got the diagnosis round the wrong way? I will check if the rumble is when the clutch is pressed or not.

[Welly]

There is no sign of oil outside the engine

I am not losing any engine oil.

Crikey! are you sure it's a 406?

[djheath]

Crikey! are you sure it's a 406?

Alright maybe there is a little on the block/sump join near the drain plug end but thats it!! Honest! *cough* ahem....

Anyway, I have just had a quick listen and there is definitely a grumble/rattle occurring when the clutch is NOT depressed. I have listened from the engine bay too and there is a definite rattle coming from the clutch end of the gearbox. What could this be? Could it be something more serious? I suppose they only way to find out is to pull the gear box out and take a gander but worried about what I might find there!

[steve_earwig]

Release bearings usually seem to make a swooshing sound that changes pitch & gets louder when the clutch is pressed. The one that went on my D8 made a noise like someone tunble drying a socket set, sounded very terminal. It could be the pressure plate, it could be the input shaft bearing, they can make a rumble that dissapears when you press the clutch, I have a feeling spigot bearings can too, but I don't think either of these could account for the judder.