Does suggest that someone's had a go at trying to fix it.jlmacd wrote:1. drivers electric mirror not working (nearside ok). Plastic trim cover for mirror fixings missing inside.....hmm!
There are two motors that control forward/backward motion - one that does it based on the seat adjustment control, and a more powerful one that is intended to move the seat faster when tilted. It's entirely possible that the switch and relay are working, but that motor doesn't work. That's one for an auto-electrician, I think.jlmacd wrote:2. passenger fwd/back switch not working (but motor runs both directions when seat back is moved, to allow access to rear seats. When fully back can hear the motor still trying to move it - something jammed?) Wasn't doing this when i arrived, only after moving it.
I'm starting to wonder if this was indeed an S-trim car that's been upgraded with parts, but they haven't activated the trip computer through Peugeot Planet 2000 (dealership) software. Leaving a sort of hodge-podge of bits that may or may not fully work.jlmacd wrote:3. trip computer doesn't seem to work? Could just be my stupidity, as I have never owned one! Tried all manner of manipulation/pressing of the end of the right hand stalk - as suggested.
Generally, giving the right stalk end a press should change pages on the display screen between GPS, Current Trip MPG, and Total MPG. Holding the button down when on the Current Trip MPG screen will reset the mileage for that page. Holding the button down on the Total MPG page will clear the overall mileage. Note that this is not in any way connected to the odometer on the clocks behind the steering wheel.
These do die. The seat heating element is actually fairly fragile; kneeling on the seat has been known to break it in some cases, or in others, the element burns out. You can fix these, but it involves removing the leather cover and being rather handier with a soldering iron than I am. Mark.W, one of the Coupe Club forum members, helped me out by fixing mine a couple of years ago, but both elements are non-functional in my car once more.jlmacd wrote:4. Heated seats - both switches illuminate (engine running) but no perceptible warmth on either seat. Again, could just be me!
The crack is irritating but can be fixed using fibreglass patching; I'm pretty sure the Coupe Club forums have a "How-To" guide on repairing a broken bumper. Worth following through as a brand new replacement is in excess of 600 EUR. Or, you could see if Adrian Bingham (ade1122 on the Coupe Club forums, who breaks these cars for a living) has one in your colour in stock. The scuffs will generally require paint to resolve. It cost me (well, the other dozy bugger's insurer) around £300 to repair a crack in my front bumper and respray it. My luck being what it is, less than 3 months after the damage was repaired, some other sod got a bit close when coming out of the parking space next to mine and scuffed the same damn corner back through to white. Git. I've just left it.jlmacd wrote:5. Front bumper - small crack, couple of scuffs on 'corners'
These literally just "pop" on. One of mine waved goodbye to me at 60 MPH down a single-carriageway road one summer day, and I had to buy replacements. Depending on the colour, you might be able to get a pair of them from ade1122.jlmacd wrote:6. headlight washers - nearside visible (as plastic parallelogram cover is gone). Offside cover is there - can only assume washer assembly is present. Again, never had them so didn't know how to operate them to test at the time.
The standard (non-Brembo) brake calipers generally don't have a brand name on them; the Brembo calipers are black and have the Brembo logo on them in white. The other ones are just grey, though if they're older calipers, they may look a bit like artefacts from the Titanic by this point (mine certainly did, anyway...)jlmacd wrote:7. brakes - rear drums seem v.rusted (just like my GLX!) Pretty certain fronts aren't Brembo (think it said 'Delphi' on them)
The rear brakes are a drum-in-disc setup. The drum part generally does get pretty rusty, but as long as the disc surrounding it is shiny and not obviously scored across the friction surface or lipped around the edge, they'll be fine; nothing to worry about. You CAN get discs that have a special black coating, which is intended to rub off when using the brakes, leaving the friction surface shiny and the drum part black and protected against surface rust. They're not even all that expensive either.
This is the one point where I think all Coupes get a bit of surface rust. Mine has this. I'm told it's not a concern, and none of the MOTs I've had have even mentioned this as an advisory.jlmacd wrote:8. corrosion - overall seemed clean. Obvious small patch on top of drivers cill directly below bottom corner of door. Been touched over but 'bubbling' is evident. Is this a worry?? As I said, my own GLX has just been condemned for the cill corrosion but this is nothing to compare. Had a good old firm prod along the length of both cills and they seem sound (well, nothing gave way, at least!)
I can't really say for sure, but with diesels, I think the oil does blacken a lot quicker than it does with petrols. Comes with the territory, I guess.jlmacd wrote:Can't really comment on under the bonnet, not being a mechanic. All looked tidy enough. Vendor said he had just had an oil and filter change done. Looking at the oil on the dipstick - oil was pretty black looking and overfilled past the max. Hmmm? Looking inside the filler cap, looked a bit 'mucky'. Then again, as I said, I am more used to very regular oil changes on my GLX - but would have thought a 'recent' change would look cleaner (i.e. gold not black)
I don't think you can check. As long as the DPF light doesn't illuminate, you're probably OK. They're right about the cost though; the fluid is quite pricey, but you don't need to top it up very often.jlmacd wrote:When asking about the DPF, vendor said the additive had just been topped up 'with the Peugeot stuff' at great expense. How to know or check??
Struggling to get up to 70? Doesn't sound right. Accelerating in 5th gear from 50? Might be better to drop down a cog and give it the beans and see if it still struggles to get to motorway speeds. I'm not the right person to ask about HDi performance though.jlmacd wrote:All else is as you would expect for a older car ('03 reg): paint chips, sadly a small dink on the drivers door (opening damage, looks like but small)
Took it for a short drive (with vendor) but never really got to 'open it up'. Was a short stretch of dual carriageway and got it up to around 60-ish. I will be honest, again probably only me, but I was not given to any sensation of power. Admittedly, I have been driving only the 2.0l 16v petrol for years but rather expected a similar, or better, response from it. Could be, because the gentleman was sitting next to me- and it is his car - I was being a little over cautious. On the faster bit of road it felt, to me, struggling to get on upwards towards 70mph (surely not?).
Don't get me wrong, it wasn't in 'limp mode' or anything but felt, perhaps, underpowered? Could this be indicative of a clogged DPF, I was wondering.
From what you've said, it *sounds* like the car is not terrible, but not in the best of health. I'd still suggest at least looking at the V6 examples; you might find yourself with a bargain car in better shape and with a reasonably recent belt change, meaning you can pocket the difference and use it for petrol laterjlmacd wrote:Last thing I would mention would still be the issue of renewing the cambelt et al. I got a quote for the full cambelt service (belt, water pump, aux belt etc,) my normal garage (who I trust and are always honest - a rarity these days, I know). They said it would cost £550 to do the full job.
I tried to engage in conversation with the vendor about the fact it is due but there wasn't much give. I still feel it is a valid haggling point though, no? Asking price is £1150 - cam belt replacement will cost half as much again....
Sorry, I should have said it's just the parcel shelf 6x9 speakers that have the JBL logos on the grilles. There's 8 speaker locations present in the JBL sound system - a pair of tweeters on top of the dash, a pair of tweeters just behind the doors, the pair of woofers in the doors, and the 6x9 subwoofers on the parcel shelf. The head unit on these is typically a Clarion radio/tape deck, with the 6-CD changer in the boot. The head unit doesn't have an amplifier, just a pre-amp, so the speaker connections don't go to the head unit at all. The Clarion unit exports line-level audio through the ISO bus connector at the back of the head unit through to the JBL amplifier in the boot, which then splits the signal out to the speakers from there. If that JBL amp isn't there, then it's almost certainly started life off as an S-trim car and had the other parts upgraded. It's a fairly nondescript black box, hidden in the same compartment as the 6-CD changer cartridge - it's located a little closer to the front of the car than the CD changer unit is, and doesn't have any logos visible on it.jlmacd wrote:Am still a little puzzled regards the trim level: says in the advert a 2.2 HDi 'S' Coupe. Noticed, from Highlander's description, that it has the leather seats, headlight washers (well, maybe!) JBL badged on rear speakers (not evident on front), cd changer and cd sat nav player in boot, cruise ctrl, seat memory and (almost) positioning, heated front seats(again, maybe!)
That's not the principle selling point for me, nice as all the bits are, I am much more concerned with performance and reliability.
Good plan, definitely recommend doing that.jlmacd wrote:Am going back again tomorrow with a trusted mechanic friend for a second look and opinion.