14 Volts with engine running

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Welly
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14 Volts with engine running

Post by Welly »

Our Citroen has popped its high-level LED brake light (the third brake light).

I've got voltage at the 2-pin connector plug but when speaking to one of the mechanics next door at work he said 14 volts is "too high" for a car :? obvs I didn't want to get into a debate about it there and then.

My understanding has always been a healthy voltage of around 13.7 to 14.5 with the engine running was a good indicator for most cars.

Weirdly the LED light is stamped 13.5V which he said was a maximum, can't imagine an extra 0.5 volts more would hurt but hey.

The main dealer wants £137.00 for the part, I've removed the old one so easy to fit myself but don't want to 'pop' the new one. I've also found a spare replacement used one (in Italy :roll: ) you would not believe how many Pug/Cit models use this same brake light.

There's no other issues with the electrics although it does blow maybe a couple of rear filament lamps per year but some cars do that don't they.

Any advice welcomes.
Cars in my care:
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2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
caprixpack
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Re: 14 Volts with engine running

Post by caprixpack »

I'd say try a different mechanic. Most cars charge up to around 14.5v. My gtx is usually around 14.4 and my 34 year old 924 is between 13.5 to 14.2 depending on engine speed.
1984 924 2.0 n/a crystal Green - The daily
2005 VW Passat tdi 130 Highline, now 170bhp & 290ft/lb
2000 Peugeot 406 2.0 hdi - stood for 4 years, fresh mot and mostly working.
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Welly
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Re: 14 Volts with engine running

Post by Welly »

Yeah, that's what I thought, perhaps 13.5v is the minimum for the LED light so it doesn't flicker or something.
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steve_earwig
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Re: 14 Volts with engine running

Post by steve_earwig »

Is it possible to change the individual LED's? I think there's a farmerpug youtube vid replacing one on, er, something.
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

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Welly
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Re: 14 Volts with engine running

Post by Welly »

The light unit is one of those 'once only' manufactured items; two halves bonded together with god knows what and produces a "I dare you to pry a bit more" crackling sound when trying to tease the joint open even just a bit.

I just know the whole thing will shatter apart or I'll stab myself horribly trying. Or both.

Luckily* the Turd Brake Light does not form part of the MOT if it's not there :? if it is there then it need to work. I asked my MOT tester this. I don't really want to leave the hole where it used to be so I think I'll try the second hand unit.
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steve_earwig
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Re: 14 Volts with engine running

Post by steve_earwig »

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-3000-15 ... rds=dremel

It's already borked, can you make it any worse? (besides impaling yourself on shards of plastic..)
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Welly
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Re: 14 Volts with engine running

Post by Welly »

In the end I managed to bag a bargain from ebay, located in Lithuania :shock: I made an offer for £5.00 off the asking price and had one delivered for £29.00 all in :D

Fitted it last night and it works perfect!
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PeterN
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Re: 14 Volts with engine running

Post by PeterN »

That's the way to do it, or the scrap yard. 14.4 volts is about the norm, if you have bulbs going at that voltage they are either of poor quality or subject to vibration.

Peter
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