1.6HDi coming our way - Please Help!

[OllieNZ]

For balance there's a guy I know who's 30-year old missus removed some bird sh*t from their brand-new Black Civic Type R with a scouring pad

My wife's brother did the same thing to get egg of his car. Steel wool hand mit anyone?

[Doggy]

For balance there's a guy I know who's 30-year old missus removed some bird sh*t from their brand-new Black Civic Type R with a scouring pad

From Sam's point of view, 30 is elderly.

[Welly]

Well it's here.

Hyundai i10 delivered and Shitrun C4 collectioned and driven back on the darkest wettest night ever.

It's blackened yet-to-be-changed-this-year oil is being rushed* in this week for an oil change next door at work. We'll get to see what state the old stuff is. Looked into removing the little mesh gauze for the turbo oil but you really need to remove the DPF which is stuck to the manifold and the radiator might* be in the way so might have to review this.

Looking over the thing there's no sign yet of injector leakage which is good as it contaminates the oil, might have a go at nipping up the injector hold-down bolts as they can work loose from the factory torques. The drivers door has been skilfully* bent back down on the hinges and now shuts proper. Interior has been cleaned, now looks pretty new.

On the drive back my feet were cold and no amount of playing with the CC would fix that and my constant on/off with the a/c made the windows steam up in that rain. Finally figured out the airflow is stuck in the face vent position a quick internet search revealed that a plastic hex-shaped shaft manages to round off quite quick and fails to turn the airflow direction flap. You can either do a fully-monty dash out and new heater box at ££mega or the 'dirty fix' which involves taking the actuator off, a quick clean and glue the shaft back in permanently with epoxy (think I'll go with that one, a 15* min job apparently).

Fuel computings were showing 33mpg on collection now up to 46 average over 180 miles. The various controls and buttons are ridiculously confusing, nothing makes sense and nothing does what you think it will (Citroen sense of humor eh?) I once managed to put the CC on full re-circ using the Steering Wheel buttons and much window steamage happened in the dark, was quite alarming as I didn't know what I'd done.

None of the controls are where you expect them to be and many features have two or three ways of switching them. Before you call me a technophobe even my two teenagers thought it was unbelievably complex, one of whom gave up trying to connect their i-phone to.

On the whole, at 5 years old it's just on the cusp of being rescued and brought back to good working order; brakes need changing, the rear tyres are original and perished, there's a drop-link type noise up front, all the tyres had anything from 19 PSi to 30 all different, a few scuffs and scrapes. The Kitchen Scouring Pad damage actually clayed and polished back quite good.

The car drives very tidily; no body roll and a nice compliant ride, pretty chuckable through bends quite like the Astra we have.

ESG? gearbox is a bit quirky but seems to do its job alright although it will allow you to select reverse if the car is rolling forward a bit and it did a ker-thunk at me, the lever is so light I wonder if it could be accidentally rammed into reverse at speed?

[steve_earwig]

Can you just undo the union where the oil mesh is, prize it open a little bit, slide the only one out and the new one in? (Not 100% serious here)

That direction flap sounds like another classic bit of PSA design*

Perished tyres at 5 years? I know that's a bit past their sell by date but that's a bit extreme. Are the<y Michelins perchance?

[Bailes1992]

I thought the mesh filter was located on the top of the turbo? It's not unusual for me to be wrong though.

I think you need to get a few oil changes done in quick succession. If it was mine I would drop the sump and clean it as they have a habit of collecting sludge.

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro% ... tures.html

[Welly]

No the filter is underneath it apparently but I thought the same as you as the top one is real easy to get to.

Rear tyres are indeed MIchelin crack-masters.

The plastic shaft thing is typically French yes, and the good news is there's two more that control* the cabin temp and they like to crap out too. There's a modified part for these and DIY-able although the passenger side one requires more swear words than are currently available

Funny though after realising what was wrong with the car it only took 15 mins on the internet to find a practical and easy fix, bloody brill!

I've been trawling through the cars history and although it's first ever service took 2 years (10k miles) and you can't blame the first owner as that was the proper schedule but after that it's had 12-monthly oil services (approx every 8k miles) I reckon it's better than I thought. I'll change the oil every 6 months now.

[Bailes1992]

Are you sure about the turbo banjo? That last link shows it at the top as does this one?

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthre ... 2056915287

[jasper5]

When you come to changing the oil and filter yourself make sure the oil is absolutely boiling hot so that you get as much as possible out of the sump and that oil drains from the oil filter housing into the sump...but hold a rag around the housing just in case.
When you fit the oil filter there is a trick I use to help make fitting the oil filter and housing much easier than it can be....
Find a socket slightly bigger than the hole in the middle of the oil filter and smear some clean oil on it....push the socket in so that the hole is made slightly bigger so that when you fit the oil filter inside the housing the peg slots in place nicely and you can screw the filter housing on a lot easier without trying to fiddle the peg in the hole as you screw on the filter housing.

[Welly]

Thanks for the tip Jasper, I had heard about getting the oil really hot first which makes sense.

Bailes I would have thought the oil feeds into the top and drains out the bottom but on the Shitrun Forum they kept going on about how tricky it is to remove/replace

[Bailes1992]

Get a new copper washer and pop the top one out and have a look?

Or have a nose on service box.

[steve_earwig]

I just had a squint but there are so many C4 1.6HDi's I don't have a clue where to start.
1.6 Hdi (DV6C M)
1.6 Hdi 110
1.6 Hdi 110 particle emission filter (DV6TED4)
1.6 Hdi 90 particle emission filter
1.6 Hdi 92 (DV6ATED4)

Careful playing with that C4.... Ma.. sorry, a friend of mine has what I thought was a big block of C4 in a drawer but no, I was wrong, it's Semtex

[Welly]

I can't find what type code the engine is, it's listed as a 110bhp on the reg doc. The 'variant' is type code LC9HZH the engine number starts JBBN03xxxxxx

VIN starts in VF7LC9HZHAYxxxxxxx

I think the long term plan will be:

A couple of oil changes/monitoring, then EGR delete, DPF delete and a modest remap. Then the oil should stay clean which'll be a good time to remove the infamous mesh filter.

I've seen a few companies offering to 'take care' of the DPF and EGR and the software needed and I think it'll cost around £500+ ? bit steep for this 'ere Forum but I don't think there's a DIY alternative.

The other thing being that it seems to crying out to release more MPG's as I don't think mid 40's is good enough (hark at me eh? )

[steve_earwig]

Hold on, 9HZ - DIESEL TURBO DV6TED4 FAP - C4 1.6 HDi 110 particle emission filter (DV6TED4)

Err, what filter?

[Bailes1992]

The mesh gauze is built into the oil supply bolt (6).

[steve_earwig]

Hokay
0376 46 UNION SCREW
12X18 M10X100-27
- UNTIL RPO 10576

0376 55
DIAM 12/10X100-29
- SINCE RPO 10577

I've google imaged searched both parts and they both look like ordinary banjo bolts, are you sure?