supafrisk wrote:One of the guys who has changed his battery (2002 110bhp HDi estate) told me that after he'd fitted the battery that his key no longer centrally locks his car and he has to do it manually.
That sounds like the key lost its pairing to the car, there is a procedure for resyncing it again, I'll dig out a copy. It's on here somewhere too.
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
I'm sure I've seen a post on here (or somewhere else maybe?) about reconnecting a battery to find there's some electronic damage. With these thoughs in mind I've not disconnected the battery on my D9, just in case, but I'm not happy about it.
Talk to Peugeot? Or someone that knows what they're doing Actuallallally, I was wondering if I could attatch my welding surge protector as I dis/reconnect.
The most important precaution to take when replacing the battery, is to keep the electrical system alive whilst the old battery is removed. This should be done whatever the vehicle.
I use two wires with crocodile clips and an old spare battery, connect the clips to the battery terminals on the car, then to the spare battery, then remove the faulty battery, replace it and remove the clips.
This always ensures that you never lose any codes or interfere with any electrical item.
This is my first post by the way, so, hello to everyone.
Yahoo Answers wrote:Should work when you put the new battery in. You would not have power to operate the door solenoids with a dead battery, but when you install the new battery the door locks will work. The remote fob codes are stored in EEPROM memory, ie the car will still remember the codes even when power is lost. Good luck!
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
jasper5 wrote:The most important precaution to take when replacing the battery, is to keep the electrical system alive whilst the old battery is removed. This should be done whatever the vehicle.
I use two wires with crocodile clips and an old spare battery, connect the clips to the battery terminals on the car, then to the spare battery, then remove the faulty battery, replace it and remove the clips.
This always ensures that you never lose any codes or interfere with any electrical item.
This is my first post by the way, so, hello to everyone.
What a spiffing idea!
Welcome jasper!
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
The answer is simple - buy a battery saver and plug it into the fag lighter beofore you start, so sufficient current is maintained in the various ECUs etc to give you time to swap 'em over.
I used to have one of those that plug into the 12volt socket/fag lighter, the down side is that some cars do not have a 12volt/fag lighter socket, and some of the sockets have unreliable connections or don't work, for whatever reason.
Wires to the battery with crocodile clips are foolproof.
turbolag wrote:The answer is simple - buy a battery saver and plug it into the fag lighter beofore you start, so sufficient current is maintained in the various ECUs etc to give you time to swap 'em over.
Easy, eh?
I was just about to say that myself. They're just a few quid from Halfrauds and run off a 9v battery
Make sure yer stereo's off first though ;)
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
I think I read on here, (or somewhere recently), that there are two alternative fuse positions for the fag lighter - one that keeps the socket powered all the time & one that goes off with the ignition switch. Pay to check befoere disconnecting battery.
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
Yes, I know that the 406 has the clamp-on type connector, but there are small type crocodile clips that will fit on to an exposed part of the terminal, you could always strip a piece of wire and wrap it round an exposed part of the terminal, then connect the clip to a bare piece of wire.
I know I'm new to this forum, but I do know what I'm talking about, I'm a motor trade professional, in business for the last 28 years.
supafrisk wrote:Plus it's dark outside and I might get eaten.
Greetings Jasper I have done something similar (to preserve a coded radio) with 2 lengths of 2.5mm copper wire, strip off the end couple of inches, once round the terminal and twist so it's nice and tight. A bit thinner than croc clips methinks. Just don't get them confused!
jasper5 wrote:Yes, I know that the 406 has the clamp-on type connector, but there are small type crocodile clips that will fit on to an exposed part of the terminal, you could always strip a piece of wire and wrap it round an exposed part of the terminal, then connect the clip to a bare piece of wire.
I know I'm new to this forum, but I do know what I'm talking about, I'm a motor trade professional, in business for the last 28 years.
Yes, I own a 406 HDI....also an Expert HDI van.
That's not the problem, it's getting the clamp off and then finding I can't get the blasted thing onto the new one!! (Apart from the fact that I haven't got a spare battery. I did have a shiny brand new one on the 406 coupe, but then some daft tw@t decided to get legless and write it off to upset me )
OK, no problem.
You could use a friend's/neighbour's car connected via jump leads to the clips/wires then check If the terminal will fit by lifting off the terminal, then measuring the size of the battery post that the terminal connector is being fitted to and comparing your original battery post size.
Failing that, ring up your local battery supplier with the number off the battery you intend to fit and ask if is compatible, better still, get the correct battery for your car....the number will read something like 075.
Base op nicked the battery off me that I bought last week for his Pajero.
I went out to the car this morning to start it ready for the school run and it was flat
So flat the damn thing wouldn't lock off the fob
Now I have the fun of trying to start it so I can go get another battery.
And I have the damn roofers arriving tomorrow morning
Oh gawd! You'll have to swap them back again & give him your flat battery!
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
Actuallallally, I was wondering if I could attatch my welding surge protector as I dis/reconnect. 
I have done something similar (to preserve a coded radio) with 2 lengths of 2.5mm copper wire, strip off the end couple of inches, once round the terminal and twist so it's nice and tight. A bit thinner than croc clips methinks. Just don't get them confused!)
