Peugeot 406 Coupe EV conversion

[Welly]

Brilliant work!

Your engineering and electronics skills are amazing!

I particularly admire your work overcoming the difficulties with the auto gear box, air con, power steering, vacuum, speedometer - you have some determination there.

[arber333]

Yeah i must not let a car mess with my plans...

I think AC wont start because BSI thinks the car is low on coolant, which it is. I will have to route the cooling system hoses and connect the reservoir.
I cant see RPM indication anywhere in the AC logic.

I still have a backup plan for RPM indicator. I will just use one small 12V electric motor and make one 60 slot wheel with optical sensor with last 3 slots cut out. I will run it at 800rpm as soon as i apply start pin. This should make BSI think the car is idling.

EDIT: Well again i stand corrected. I rigged cooling system and tried to fill it up. Sure, coolant level sensor went out. AC however still wont start. DOH!
Now i see an additional problem of "Engine over temperature" error comming up. Not a huge problem except system starts cooling fans as soon as i remove key!!! Huh, i would expect it to try to cool down the engine immediately.

[arber333]

Does anyone know why car would say "engine temperature too high" even thouogh i have coolant sensor attached and it is operating?

tnx

A

[steve_earwig]

Not sure which engine you had, think you said ES8J4S but if it was an ES8J4 then it had 2 temperature sensors - one for the display, one for the ecu.

[arber333]

Not sure which engine you had, think you said ES8J4S but if it was an ES8J4 then it had 2 temperature sensors - one for the display, one for the ecu.

I had ES9J4S engine 210BHp inside. So that means there has to be another sensor, because the indication one is actually working. Can you tell me, or better yet send me a drawing of the other sensor location? And its P/N?
I tried to find it on the engine actually, but i cant. Maybe i already removed it unintentionally.

tnx

Arber

[steve_earwig]

No, you were right - if it's the later engine then the diagram only shows 1 sensor, just it was my first thought when I read your post as we'd seen problems with the 2 sensors not agreeing in the past.

[arber333]

No, you were right - if it's the later engine then the diagram only shows 1 sensor, just it was my first thought when I read your post as we'd seen problems with the 2 sensors not agreeing in the past.

Is it possible that i damaged the sensor when i was preparing a socket for it on my coolant manifold? It still shows temperature swing if i heat it up.
Is oil level + temp probe significant here? I pulled it out and connected it to wiring loom but there is no difference.
Also i see oil sensor is 4 pin connector, but my wiring papers show only 3pin connection?

A

[arber333]

Well i am humbled again...
I let the car wait for some time and delt with electronics. Now when i came back to it i tried various sensors Also i made arduino circuit to simulate engine RPM with 60 - 2 pulses. I connected its output to one RPM sensor wire and tada!!! A relay went on inside cooling fan control and alarm stopped.
When i tried the other wire i got same result. What is interesting is that with this signal RPM dial doesnt show anything. It must be missing the negative side of the signal. I should build push-pull transistor pair to make both sides of the signal.

A

[arber333]

Well f***k RPM indicator. I started to assemble the car without it operating for now.
Speedo bill be enough information for now. Also AT computer will translate my Drive/Reverse command to display on dash. I will have only ABS to resolve since it obviously takes some RPM signal from BSM. Everything else works!

So i hope i will have a working car by next month.

[steve_earwig]

Wow, that's some progress! That'll be a majr achievement to get it on the road, you can sort out the mere details later.

[frog]

Well f***k RPM indicator. I started to assemble the car without it operating for now.

I was thinking you might have blown up some circuit in the engine ECU.

I attached page 36-37 of the big "Bosch Motronic ME7.4.6" encyclopedia (you already have it in full). The pages show how the crankshaft position sensor works. Looks like it is a passive sensor, so probably a voltage is applied to the sensor by the ECU itself on one of the pins (e.g. +, pin E2 in the 48-way black connector) then readout is done on the other (e.g. - pin E3). If you now apply external voltage on these pins, there are two voltage sources competing, so this may blow up either or both of the supplying circuits...

[The extension pdf has been deactivated and can no longer be displayed.]

So i hope i will have a working car by next month.

Good progress! Keep us updated! I am in desparate need for pictures

[arber333]

Thanks Frog for detailed description. I really need the info on why or how something works in the 406.

I think circuit works though, since when i attach RPM sensor and bring some metal close circuit reacts and some relays inside cooling fan relays start.
The same happens if i apply some open collector 5V signal from Arduino pins. Do you think i should use 12V instead, in your document it says 5V is minimum so what if arduino gives 4.9V? DOH! I will use 12V with NPN then. I didnt think of that since when i test the sensor it gives a short +/-1.5V differential pulse on the scope. That should be enough to open one transistor on the other side.
Hm... do you think sensor is also grounded to chassis? That would explain why no RPM since i didnt connect it anywhere near chassis.

EDIT: Oh pics are on my blog https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/
It is a bit difficult to post pics here since there is a limit of 300kb on attachments....

EDIT2: i just gave it open collector 12V. It wont show anything on the dial. I will have to try with diff voltage signal.
However on the speedo i figured i need division by 6 e.g. the driveshaft will rotate at 50km/h and if i use single magnet on sensor i will get 420Hz signal. Well speedo to show 50km/h needs 67Hz only! That is 6.2 divider. I will need some divide by 6 circuit.

[arber333]

It was too cold to work outside for like a month now. During this time i managed to do some software work and close my inverter up.

Last week i finished inverter
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/tag/inverter/

Then i finished up Webasto heater wiring and fuel tank and ran the unit. It brings up heat nicely. 3L additional liquid tank distributes heat for later use. Even if heater stopps for any reason there is enough heat for like 10 minutes, depends on the cold outside.
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/tag/heater/

I dont have an option to install preheater PTC element in this car. Does anyone know where in the car i could fit a VW heating element easily to get good airflow? Maybe on the air valve from outside?

This weekend I put batteries in the car. It still needs some charging cables rewiring, but everything is now inside.
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/tag/battery-box/

[frog]

Really nice reading about your progress

Just wondering: are you already driving with it? (Because you are fitting a Webasto...)

[arber333]

No, i needed to deal with other things before completing the car. Webasto was needed because i wanted to fill up coolant only once .
I need to get under the car again. I think i connected something incorrectly in charger wiring.
Maybe this weekend i can turn the wheels.

Then there is BMS wiring... i just want the wiring to end... i want to drive!!!

Oh BTW i got one small signal transformer i will try to command RPM through this, maybe this will convince RPM gage to show something.

EDIT: Did anyone ever modify cabin vent system? Do you think i would be able to install this: https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... preheater/
I would like to do this without much damage...