Central Locking Woes

[bjranson]

Had a November 2002 HDI 110 Rapier Estate now for about a month. I believe it's a D9 (from reading the forums in general, not certain though).

When I bought it from the dealer he said it had been sitting on the tarmac for about 3 weeks unused. The battery was flat. We jump started it for the road test and then he put a new one battery in for me as part of the deal.

I got two keys with the car, one a two-button unit (oval shaped, not wedged), and a basic, no-button key. Both of these keys work fine when opening the car with the manual lock, and will both also start the engine fine.

The problem is the two-button fob will not do anything about activating the remote central-locking. I have opened the fob and checked the battery with a multi-meter - the battery is fine.

After reading the forums here, I tried doing "both" key reset procedures:

1. Insert key and turn to second ignition position (all lights on dash), then hold LOCK button down on fob for 10 seconds, take key out, then test central locking system.
-or-
2. Same as 1, but press LOCK button once, wait 15-20 seconds then press it again.

Neither of these worked, although just once, the BSI reported "Engine Immobiliser Fault" when I did it, and the orange key symbol came on in the dash, which suggested that the fob was actually transmitting something. I wasn't able to repeat this behaviour, and in any case, the car continues to start OK.

I then did a BSI reset (per this document: http://bit.ly/rmRh3l), but this made no difference.

I thought, well ok, I can live without the remote part of the central locking feature. The problem is now that after a month of using the driver's side lock with the key manually, the lock is now busted apparently (very stiff, then it just spins inside freely). So I have to get this resolved, since going around to the passenger side to lock and unlock the car each time is going to send me to Bedlam in a hurry.

Here are my options, as I see it:

1. Call a stealer and get ripped off for a new set of keys and reprogramming. No thanks, since my guess is this will be upwards of £200 - not worth it on a £1,600 car!
2. (a) Get a set of keys from a scrappy and reprogram them with the above procedure, and continue to use the old set to start the car (will this work?)
2. (b) Get a set of keys and a new BSI from a scrappy (really? why? sounds like more trouble than its worth, but maybe this is all I can do if 2(a) won't work...), then worry about resynching it with the ECU (I have done my research and can get the VIN to PIN from the one of the guys at http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk).
3. Bypass the system altogether by getting a £20 aftermarket central locking upgrade unit. I actually bought one of these and was all ready to start when I suddenly realised that the unit that controls the central locking in a D9 is the BSI, and that this wouldn't be an option at all. Is this correct?

Anyway, apologies for the long post. If anyone can verify a little bit of this and that here and there, I might yet get a full solution fleshed out. Thanks in advance.

[Doggy]

My best guess, you have the same problem I had a couple of years ago - I disconnected the battery and from that point on, my remote c/locking wouldn't work, though I could still start the car OK.

Tried everything else before getting the PIN and using a PP2000, (dealer diagnostic clone), to get the car to 're-learn' the key codes. This worked OK for me, but I've only had success with my own car. Recently tried the same on a 2000 semi-multiplexed car, but it didn't work. (Your car is the same as mine so should be OK).

I think the dealer would charge you about £50 to do it, but you may be able to find someone with PP2000 within relatively easy driving distance, either via this forum, or the 406coupe forum, http://www.406coupeclub.com/phpBB3/

I'd happily do it for you FOC, but it's a bit of a jaunt down here......

[steve_earwig]

the BSI reported "Engine Immobiliser Fault"

Mine occasionally does that, it's a "feature"

The problem is now that after a month of using the driver's side lock with the key manually, the lock is now busted apparently (very stiff, then it just spins inside freely).

This is also a "feature", this time one you want - it's impossible to force the lock using a similar key because it just defeats a spring and the lock spins round and round. They do suffer from lack of lubrication and do this with the right key, so you need to spray some WD in there, followed by some graphite. Oh, and as I found once, if you leave the lock "upside-down" it won't work with the right key until you turn it up the right way

Peugeot rushed me about 80 quid for new guts for my key so I hope you manage to get it sorted for a lot less than that.

[bjranson]

Thanks dogslife, I am *hoping* that your solution with the PP2000 (something I've read a lot about on these forums) would do the job. My concern is forking out for something only to find that wasn't the solution. I'm moving down to Worcestershire in about three weeks. Perhaps if I can hold off until then I can do a jaunt across. But in the mean time I'll ask around to see if there's anyone Oop North who might have one, and I'll try and get a firm quote from the local stealer that's £50 or under.

Local stealer quoted me £70 for a replacement fob, just in case it's a problem with the old key.

Steve, so I gather the driver's door lock is not busted then, if it's just turning around and around? Got it on the WD, but can you explain the bit about the graphite? Are we talking about some special graphite lube I can get from Halfords?

[steve_earwig]

You will need: 1 pencil... You don't really want to lubricate a lock with oil because it attracts dust and also because you don't really want an oily key in your pocket.

My suggestion is to use WD40 to get the lock working and graphite powder (oh yes powder, of course powder, can't you read my mind?) to keep it that way. And you want to keep it that way even after you get the remote working - as I found out myself a couple of years back modern car batteries can just suddenly drop dead without any warning - it'd be a bit inconvenient to have a dead car that you couldn't unlock and the key just going round and round.

Hmm, Halfords... nah, nothing. Oh, this looks interesting http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ambersil-Graphi ... 439&sr=1-1

Btw I really was sacrificing pencils until I found where to buy it here

[bjranson]

Good to know. I had no idea!

Short of grinding up a pencil onto a piece of card and blowing it into the lock i was wondering how you could do this... Failing a suitable delivery method, I might try sourcing graphite-in-a-can.

EDIT:
Just discovered this: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to- ... /?ALLSTEPS

EDIT:
Well the pencil ground into the lock did the trick! It took quite a number of minutes of bumping and grinding but we got there in the end. I now have a functional drivers side lock, which takes out the urgency of getting the remote working again. Thanks a lot guys!

[steve_earwig]

That's a bit strange - graphite in a can is much much easier!

[Doggy]

Well done that man!

[fatboy]

If i am not too late Give the lock a good squirt of WD-40 worked for mine