Drivers door window regulator.

[phil832]

Hi Everyone,

Hopefully someone can help me with my window regulator, which won't work. I've just spent the last hour trying to find the fault using a multimeter.The main drivers door window switch, only works for the passenger window only, everything great there. I've checked the one touch auto switch, and power is only going to one pin on the switch, and also one pin on the plug connector (PIN 6) which fits into the regulator.
I figured maybe 2 or 3 pins need power to work correctly.
I've checked the Fuses in engine bay and fuses under immobiliser keypad, everything ok there.
Stripped door card and foam, and removed black tape from wiring, and no breaks in wiring.
I've even removed the black rubber sleeve which fits between the car body and door, and no wiring breaks or splits there.
I wonder if the connector plug behind the rubber sleeve could be accessed safely, but without having to remove the door, or parts of the dashboard.

Anybody else had a similar problem as this, and if so was it easy to repair without having to go to an auto-electrician !.
My car is a 1996 406 L DT (D8-I think).
Thanks for anyone offering help with this problem.

Cheers

Phil.

[Gary406]

what about replacing the main switch on the drivers side door ?

if the passangers side is working ok it may just be the switch

[Gary406]

PS - make sure you seal the seal behind the door panel properly.

you need to get some proper car seal and seal it back all around. or you will have water getting inside your car.

i recommend tigerseal .

[phil832]

Hi Gary406,

I've got a spare switch, and even bought a spare window regulator, and tested both of them without success, so probably wiring is broken somewhere.Can the relay be at fault cos i haven't located that, or tested that yet.

Cheers

Phil.

[omega]

have you checked for power at the moter?
i have a spare moter and a switch unit if you need.

must type faster

[phil832]

Hi Omega,

I have a spare window switch and a regulator which i got from the scrappies, havent tested them yet, as the wiring is at fault, no power going to connector plug - only pin 6 is getting current.I havent tested relay as i don't know where it is (engine bay or under dashboard)???.

cheers

Phil.

[lecky4]

How many pins at motor should have power? I can't find a decent wiring diagramme anywhere.

[Toasted]

Hi Lecky,

Just seen your post while I was on forum to update my last one.
It sounds like we have similar situations. Have a look at the last post in the link:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=14129
(If link doesn't work, access the post titled 'Will a D9 window motor fit a D8'... or something like that)

It will tell you the pin out for the drivers door motor/control unit connector to help with fault finding.

Good luck!

[Toasted]

Hi Phil,

Just noticed you were the originator of this thread, sounds identical to my fault - fault was broken main feed wire (feeding Pin #1 below) in door gaitor/sleeve.
At the door motor/regulator connector there should be two 12V +ve feeds: Pin #1 is a permanent +ve (fuse 27 - 20A), Pin #5 is an Ignition +ve.
Note -ve feed on pin #9 (Earth).
Check out my post, it should be of interest.
By the way, it is the same 'mark' of vehicle, ie; D8 (Mk 1) - The later D9's have 'anti-pinch' sensing incorperated, as well as totally different electrical connectors.

Best of luck!

David

[Toasted]

Typo....Fuse No.27 is 30A not 20A.
It was late after all!!

[phil832]

Hi David,

Thanks very much for your reply, I'll check your post regarding the wiring connector fault.
It seems to me that this is a very common problem with 406 models of all ages.

Did you have to remove any dashboard fittings or the actual door to gain access to the wiring in the gaitor sleeve?.
Its in a very small fiddly space, where space for fingers is very limited.
Im also curious to know where the earth connection is situated in the drivers footwell. Do i need to remove drivers seat and /or carpet.
This may be the actual problem , no power or earth getting to plug connector.

Cheers

Phil.

[Toasted]

Hello Phil,

When I discovered the broken wire in the gaitor, I had the door card off to check the feeds at the motor connector. You could pull enough of the gaitor back to expose the wires and enable you to give them a tug. With the door card being off (and inner foam lining) it just made life a bit easier to pull the gaitor back. Not sure about the front doors having connectors, they looked like plastic glands to me, ie solid continous wiring (maybe some one will correct me), did not investigate too much due to finding the broken wire.
There is an earth stud in the drivers footwell, remove right hand kick panel and pull back the carpet. For ease, remove the plastic door strip panel also.
I seriously doubt a fault will occur there without showing up any others, it is a point for a few different ccts.
Personally, I would bite the bullet and remove the door card and lining to gain access to the motor connector and start your testing there. The motor connector pins are numbered so you can get the connection 'pin out' from my fault post.
When I looked at the motor, it seemed pretty good, good brushes, commutor, bushes etc, so I reckon your fault will be either; the same as mine (part broken wire in gaitor), the relay which is coupled to the motor (the connector plugs into it) or the switch itself.

A couple of tips, the first one courtesy of Mike (cheers mate);
- Take your time removing the door lining and cut away from the adhesive to allow easy refitting. On refitment, use a flexible waterproof adhesive to seal the door from the elements, it'll leak otherwise!
- Use a test probe when checking for feeds/voltages. It will 'load' the circuit as opposed to a multimter which, in my experience can display voltages through iffy connections.

Apologies if at any time I'm 'teaching granny to suck eggs!'
All the best - David

[phil832]

Hi David,

Thanks again for your reply to the ongoing window regulator problem. I've had another look today, at the wiring,
particularly in the door gaitor, and the the wires are all intact. There is no breaks or damage along the entire length from gaitor to the plug connector.
The fuses are all good too. Checked the plug connector using a multimeter, and there is only earth current going to pin 9, all other connections are dead.

I can't understand that the passenger side switch and window works perfectly, and yet the drivers side is giving so much trouble???.
As i'm not very competent with car electrics, i'm going to get an auto-electrician to help out, as they will hopefully find the fault without further delay.

Many thanks for your kind help

Cheers

Phil.

[Toasted]

Hello again Phil,

Sorry to hear you're still having problems. I've just had a look at the wiring diagram to double check:
Fuse 3 in under bonnet box 1 supplys the main +ve for both F27 & F29 fuses inside the car. F27 = Drivers side, F29 = Passenger side.
So F29 being good and F27 being blown or open connection at rear of fuse box would give you the problem. I know you said you checked all fuses, how did you check them, visual only? If so, get a test probe on them to prove voltage (good) is present at the connections.
Fuse F28 (Ign feed) supplies both sides relay coils but splits internally after the fuse, so in theory, passenger side could be ok and a duff internal connection supplying the drivers side, hence no feed.
I haven't heard of big issues with fuseboxes, however the cars do have a variety of dry solder joint problems, so you never know!

If you are absolutely convinced of no +ve feeds present at motor/relay connector then you must start probing the actually wires to locate the open cct.
An orange wire is the main batt +ve for the motor feed, it is maked 'B27' every so often, locate that after the fusebox and before the gaitor and test, if good do the same again on the door side. There may well be a situation where the wires strands have parted but the outer insulation is still intact.
Also, never assume you have a good earth until it has been proved and I really cannot stress enough, the importance of using a test probe for fault finding in this situation, a multimeter will track through the poorest connection and lead you right up the garden path, speaking from experience!!
The same could be said with the ign feed, work your way from the fusebox to the motor connector, not sure on the colour of that one, it was pin 5 at motor, so get colour and labelling from there and try and find after fusebox.

Very best of luck..

P.S. When probing the wires, use a very sharp pointed probe to penetrate the outer insulation, or use a fresh Stanley blade and diagonally slice gently into the insulation until you feel the copper and simply apply probe to blade. If any wire that you need to slice into or probe is external to the vehicle or in a exposed place, apply some Vaseline to the area to keep the moisture out.

[phil832]

Hi David,

Thanks for your ongoing help, I've had another look at the wiring today, starting with the Main no3 fuse in engine bay.
Inspected fuse, cleaned contacts and re-fitted it, everything ok with that.


Then replaced fuses 27, 28, and 29 with new ones,then re- tested plug connector with multimeter.

Pin 1 -(Battery feed) - No current
Pin 2 - na
Pin 3 - (Down) - working ok.
Pin 4 - na
Pin 5 - Current there with ignition turned off ONLY (No Current when ignition turned on).
Pin 6 - na
Pin 7 - (Down and Up) - working ok
Pin 8 - (Up)- working ok.
Pin 9 - (EARTH) - working ok.

(Drivers side window switch- working good).


Then checked B27 -BATTERY (ORANGE) WIRING from gaitor to plug connector using test probe, no current.
So therefore broken orange wiring must be behind dasboard and fusebox.
Can behind fusebox be accessed easily without having to strip out the dashboard ?.

Hopefully once i can access behind fusebox, broken wiring can be tested and repaired !!.

Once again, thanks for your help and assistance.

Cheers

Phil.