Another 307 issue BSI has lost VIN code

[jonsowman]

Sounds positive. Worst case you should be able to replace the transponder with a blank one and program it with Planet...

[Doggy]

I transferred the key blade and pcb to the key body that came with the ecus and it works - after a fashion.

Definitely 'sees' the rfid chip and beeps if you open the door with the key in the ignition & turned off. It starts and runs like a bag of nails and won't idle, but you can keep it going indefinitely with enough pedal to give about 1500 RPM, so it's looking a lot better.

I've just compared the characteristics on servicebox for the two VIN codes they are:
(Original) VF33E8HZB82652795 replacement ecu's are from VF33C8HZB82642099, it was a 5-door saloon compared to 'our' estate but otherwise pretty much identical.
The build codes are only 5 days apart
Fuel systems are both Bosch and all engine related items in the characteristics are the same, so should be a match.

Had a quick look at the fault codes - most were permanent faults for items disconnected from the loom - egr solenoid & the like. I cleared them all and it returned NFF until I started it, at which point it lost comms and doggy's tea was ready....

I'm thinking of uploading & comparing the ecu files if my Galletto supports EDC16C3's, not checked as yet.

The pessimist within me thinks Trump might get elected and the ecu donor vehicle got scrapped cos of an unfixable misfire.

Stay tuned for the next thrilling episode.

[Doggy]

Got a little further......

The only fault code that comes back is 'High pressure fuel regulator circuit, rail pressure higher than requested value', (or words to that effect).

Checked in the live data and sure enough it's showing 2000-2500 bar for a set value of around 1000. Guess that's why it won't idle and come to think of it, back at the beginning of this saga he had the same problem after changing the lift pump. It would start, wouldn't idle and ran rough so this problem was present with the old ecu too. I think that's good news as it suggests the replacement ecu/bsi set up has a clean bill of health.

I read somewhere that if you disconnect the rail pressure sensor on a 406 HDi, it will use a default value of about 800 bar and run well enough to get you home, so I had a look for the offending item, but the injectors are hidden against the bulkhead on a 1.4 HDi and I guess the rail / sensor's round there too, so I've left it for tonight.

The other possibility is it's the regulator itself, since the indicated pressure rises with engine speed, implying the measurement's OK but it's not regulating at all.

[OllieNZ]

Sounds like you're doing well with it.

[Malc]

Well Trump came up Trumps Doggy so no reason why you can't do same with the 307.. We're all with you plus magic learning-curve..
I was going to suggest (and it still is a simple switch-over) to just go for new Key/BSI replacement and leave old ecu in situ to see what result you got..
Bag of nails doesn't sound electronics to me though I've bump started my 406 and had the firing order out of sequence which was something else demanding a very quick ignition switch off!

[Doggy]

Thanks for those words of confidence.

I don't think the ecu will work unless paired with it's 'own' BSI & transponder chip. Anyone know different?

[Malc]

I think your right and this may be of interest.. Keep us posted on what progress you make.. Bonne chance! http://www.liontamer.net/forums/index.p ... c,3.0.html

[Doggy]

I'm satisfied the ecu/bsi/transponder are all now on the same page, but still have the minor* issue of high fuel rail pressure to resolve.
Over yesterday & today, 6 pretty much fruitless hours saw us successfully remove 1 of the 3 screws securing the fuel pressure regulator to the HP pump.
Now come to the conclusion we'll have to take the HP pump off to get at the regulator, so cambelt off, etc, etc.

I swear this poxy 1.4 HDi is infinitely more difficult to work on than a 'proper' DW12 and what do you get for all the hassle?

60+ mpg & lots of time to think about what you're missing.

[Doggy]

The saga continues.....
(This next bit might one day help someone check out the pressure regulator circuit)
Fearing I would spend hours removing the HP pump only to eventually find I had an ecu/wiring issue, I resolved to test the control circuit for the fuel pressure regulator. To prove a point, I disconnected the plug from the regulator on my 406 and inserted a couple of wires I had soldered to an old 5W sidelight bulb. When you turn the ignition on, the filament glows just visibly, (which I take indicates minimum current).

When you trigger the engine ecu actuator test / high pressure components / fuel pressure regulator, the lamp cycles from dim to bright & back a couple of times over about 10 seconds.
OK. That's how a healthy one behaves, now what about the sickly 1.4 HDi?
With just the ignition on, it glows full brightness.
When you trigger the engine ecu actuator test / fuel pressure regulator, the lamp cycles from bright to dim & back a couple of times over about 10 seconds.
OK. That one's healthy too.
BTW The reason the 1.4 works arse-about-face is because it's controlling the rate of fuel admission to the HP pump, whereas on a grown-up DW10/DW12 the regulator is letting some of the fuel on the HP side leak back to the tank.

Anyway, this test proves the ecu can drive the regulator at any OCR percentage needed to manage the rail pressure and my original assessment that the regulator itself is stuck/gummed-up or otherwise rogered is confirmed. Doesn't fix anything, but at least I know the sodding pump has to come off.

A couple more puzzling things I spotted today, (any comments / suggestions welcome).

I had previously noticed the lift pump runs continuously, (ignition on, engine stopped), unlike a 406 which stops after a few seconds.
(Anybody with a 1.4 HDi able to confirm whether this is normal)?

Looking at the Injection Parameters, (ignition on, engine stopped), I noticed the rail pressure set and actual values both read 295 bar!
(They both change quickly, [but not in synch because of the regulator problem], when I have run it previously).

Tried to start it, but the battery died immediately, so it's now back on charge.

Now have a new fuel leak, from the priming bulb. Which begs another series of questions:-

Priming bulb AND lift pump - is this right? (Off to check ServiceBox in a mo).

Is the priming bulb leaking because the lift pump never stops?

All ideas / comments welcome.

[Doggy]

ServiceBox confirms:
1613302880 GAUGE WITHOUT PUMP

Methinks I have wasted all this time because a leaky priming bulb caused it cut out a few times,
....then my daughter called the AA who diagnosed a dodgy lift pump, (and confirmed it by slapping the tank / getting it to run for a second or 2),
....then her other half got a lift pump & fitted it - it started & ran like a bag of nails because the rail pressure was too high for some reason.
....then he took the battery off without letting the ecus shut down and scrambled the BSI
....then yours truly, (who really is old enough to know better), failed to question the diagnosis or apply the sanity check that there's almost always only one fault to start with.

[steve_earwig]

Jesus H. Christ I guess the lesson is never underestimate anybody else's incompetence

....then her other half got a lift pump & fitted it

and failed to notice any difference? Maybe he thought the original pump had, erm, dissolved

[Doggy]

Surprise, surprise - it works! - so long as you let the pump run to prime it,then whip the fuse out once it fires.

It did then idle properly for about a minute before stopping, (still has the leaky priming bulb).
Prospective SIL now off to the scrappy to try & find a priming bulb/pipe set + a "1613302880 GAUGE WITHOUT PUMP"

[Welly]

Eh? it has a lift pump but doesn't need one?

Our 1.6 has a squidgy priming pump I had the pleasure* of un-clipping it while fitting the Air Filter.

[steve_earwig]

Lift pump fitted in error. I'm surprised it actually has voltage, And wiring.

[Welly]

What so it just fitted and churning diesel around in the tank?