406oc.co.uk

So I've been deliberating for a while whether to get mudflaps for my mowtah. I've always fitted flaps to all my cars, but "proper" ones for the V70 are only available from the dealer (and they ain't cheap!) and all the aftermarket / universal ones I've seen look naff! I was originally quoted over £80 from the stealer (with owners club discount) but eventually managed to pick up a full set for £66...


Got round to fitting them yesterday, they were very easy to fit and I think they look great

The fronts can be fitted without removing the wheels, just turn them to full lock.

Firstly I removed the 3 screws from the wheel arch liner.


Then gave the area a good clean and stuck on a self adhesive protector (you can just about see it in this pic).


Held the mudflap in place and re-fitted the 3 screws.


This is the point where I had to grow a pair and take a drill to the second most expensive thing I've ever bought!! Drilled through the 2 remaining holes into the liner, then used the supplied pop-rivets, look at the length on that!


Et voila, first one's done.



(Hey, there's a bit of 406 in the background )

The rears are very similar, but you need to remove the wheels for access (the wheels were stuck really tightly onto the hubs, had to use foot based percussion to get them free!! What's all that about??)

Only 2 screws to remove this time.


Then cleaned the area, applied the sticky protector, offered up the flap and refitted the screws. Drilled through, in 3 places this time, and riveted (had to be careful when drilling the bottom hole 'cos the exhaust is pretty close behind the liner).


..and we're done.


Just refitted the wheels and admired.




As I said, I think they look pretty good and am looking forward to the reduced mess on my car!!

Nice and unobtrusive

Oddly enough, I got tired of masses of snow & ice building up on the yoyo's running boards so the mechanic and I (mostly the mechanic) fitted some to it this morning. I wasn't even going to bother asking how much Toyota ones cost so I got some generic ones from my mate Goran in the car spares shop. The mechanic was sure they weren't going to fit but...

I'm afraid I didn't take any pictures of the process so I'll have to describe it instead.

Lift car up on sill lifter, remove front road wheel. Offer up mudguard, shake head a few times. Remove screws holding the rear of the arch extension, cram mud flap behind it and shake head a few more times. Remove clips holding the rear of the arch liner with a pair of pliers and discard as they all broke. Peel liner back to reveal an empty cavity packed with mud, shake head once more. Clean out mud roughly with screwdriver. Cut mudguard down with said pair of pliers, offer up & screw in place on available metal using self-piloting screws. Use same screws to reattach arch liner. Refit wheel. Repeat the other side without removing anything. Lower to the ground.

Job jobbed:


Oh dear, it's not quite the same:


I couldn't be asked to do the rears after all that It's going back tomorrow morning because (da-dah!!) the drop links are shagged

Oooh, fancy flaps there Dai

Alloys stuck to the hubs is very common on the volvo for some reason. I was advised to apply a touch of copper shlip to the mating faces many have had to call the recovery out for puncture-changes as they couldn't get the wheel off!

I had the same problem on the Skirocco (so presumably it applies to Glofs as well), I only found out when I had some tyres changed and they had to use a sledgehammer to get the wheels off

I reckon that the centre part of the hub that locates the wheel seems to have too much of an interference fit with the wheel itself. Not easy to refit either cos you've really got to force them on...

It's quite common, dissimilar metals between the hub and the alloy wheel cause them to fuse together as they heat up and cool down.

My father had to call the AA a few years ago after his alloy got welded to the hub of his T5.

You need to put some copper grease on the center bore of the hub to stop them fusing together.

This was for your mudflap thread. It appears the forum is confused

Looks neat, Dai.

One small point - won't those pop rivets leave a couple of tiny holes for moisture and other crap to get into the sills?

(maybe you could seal them with silicone, or simular).

Doggy wrote:Looks neat, Dai.

One small point - won't those pop rivets leave a couple of tiny holes for moisture and other crap to get into the sills?

(maybe you could seal them with silicone, or simular).

Oooh, mega delay! Missed that post, sorry Doggy dude!

Don't quote me on this but I don't think the rivets allow access to anything critical, they just rivet the flap to the wheel arch liner so any moisture that managed to get through would just run down the back of the liner and out at the bottom. The back liners / flaps are attached to the plastic bumper anyway so the only possible point of water ingress would be if you were to leave one of the 3 screws out at the front, but thinking about it they may have been blind holes anyway, so it's all good!

The big question is, wivits or no wivits, do the flaps actually stop the car getting dirty?

I have yet to see any such flappage making a jot of difference as, the way I see things, the dirtage comes from the top of the wheel and spews out down the sides of the car. Low speed splashes may be 'caught' by the flaps but that's about it?

I thought the usual problem was a trail of mud up from the bottom of the tyre, usually followed by rust. The Chinese mudfraps did a fair job of keeping the crap off the yoyo's running boards anyway, although I did find out that driving at full tilt through floods results in the water being directed straight onto the screen - visibility? What visibility? (Don't worry, I kept the revs up to stop water being sucked up the exhaust )

Can you help me steve? yesterday I reverse-parked quite close to a rose bush and I'm worried I may have sucked-in a few thorns?

Apparently the thorns could get stuck in the head gasket and blow the intercooler?

Don't worry, just get a brick, start it up and leave the brick on the throttle for about half an hour and it'll blow all the thorns out

Yeah that shouid work,


Dont forget to Youtube it so we can have a watch,

iwill get my pop corn ready,

steve_earwig wrote:Don't worry, just get a brick, start it up and leave the brick on the throttle for about half an hour and it'll blow all the thorns out

Ok m8 thankz, i arksed my dad but he sed to use a breese blok cos teh brick wont be heavy enuff? wot do you think im scared i dont want to get it wrong mate please help me urgent lol

You could always do it manually. The other way is parking the car over an ant's nest for a week, after you've given it a good kicking but unfortunately ants are dormant this time of year.