Leather interior in a D9
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Captain Jack
- 3.0 24v
- Posts: 3820
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:26 am
- Location: Langford, Somerset
Does anyone know if the wiring loom for the seats is the same for the D8 and D9? and where the loom actually joins into the cars circuitry if it is a block connector etc.
I've sussed out all the seat switch functions in relation to the motors and believe i can hard wire these in if the worst comes to worst. but i'd need 4 independant live feeds for the motors themselves so i'm a bit stumped, incidently i was planning on using the fag lighter to power the switches.
I've sussed out all the seat switch functions in relation to the motors and believe i can hard wire these in if the worst comes to worst. but i'd need 4 independant live feeds for the motors themselves so i'm a bit stumped, incidently i was planning on using the fag lighter to power the switches.
I've got an electrician mate coming to have a look later he seems to think it should be ok running all 4 motors off 1 feed, my concern was that they would all try and operate at the same time. did you direct wire the switches to the motors too? i'm concerned about any voltage difference and the motor wires look somewhat smaller, i was thinking i may have to install some in line resistors.
going a bit controversial now, i don't want the ash trims on the door as they're too black so i'm respraying them in........ moonstone blue! lovely 306 colour just a tad sweeter looking than silver, if it doesn't work i'll just do them again in silver this time. in time i'm planning to do the dash panels the same colour Geordieboy style
going a bit controversial now, i don't want the ash trims on the door as they're too black so i'm respraying them in........ moonstone blue! lovely 306 colour just a tad sweeter looking than silver, if it doesn't work i'll just do them again in silver this time. in time i'm planning to do the dash panels the same colour Geordieboy style
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Captain Jack
- 3.0 24v
- Posts: 3820
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:26 am
- Location: Langford, Somerset
I am somewhat confused at what you're trying to do there now... 
The motors are already wired to the switches. For the passender side seats, everything is in place. You just need to provide 1 single 12v into the switches (you'll need to trace the wires into the switch to see which one it is).
For the drivers side, take the switches out of the seat and you'll be able to see a pad, which doesn't have any wires going into it. You will need to solder a wire to that, which will then be connected to the 12v feed (I can't actually remember whether this is a positive or earth though). If you compare the passenger and drivers switches, you will clearly see what I mean.
The motors are already wired to the switches. For the passender side seats, everything is in place. You just need to provide 1 single 12v into the switches (you'll need to trace the wires into the switch to see which one it is).For the drivers side, take the switches out of the seat and you'll be able to see a pad, which doesn't have any wires going into it. You will need to solder a wire to that, which will then be connected to the 12v feed (I can't actually remember whether this is a positive or earth though). If you compare the passenger and drivers switches, you will clearly see what I mean.
I can't remember 100% what I did now, I know I had to chop the wires in the big orange plug..come to think of it I think I connected them to the appropriate wires from the switches, a bit of trial and error to get the right one working... Had a feeling that there had to be a live which was then split for both the switches though?
Yes indeed, the passenger seat was a doddle, the drivers seat needs a bit more thought though, you see these things are in scrap yard removed condition i'e. looms been cut/missing etc! i have a white plug for the switch wiring and a orange one for the individual motors feed but no direct connection from switches to motors wiring so therefore need to do my own, the passenger side has been VERY helpful for mapping this out. regarding the resistors/small wires- ignore this now didn't realise at time these were for the memory and on drivers side only.
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Captain Jack
- 3.0 24v
- Posts: 3820
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:26 am
- Location: Langford, Somerset
Yay! Well done that, man! You do realise that this is only the beginning, don't you?
2003 - 2008: 1998 Peugeot 406 2.1 TD 110bhp LX Saloon
2008 - 2009: 2004 Honda Accord 2.2 CDTI 136bhp Executive Saloon
2009 - 2013: 2002 Peugeot 406 2.0 HDI 110bhp Executive Saloon
2013 - 2021: 2007 Peugeot 407 2.2 HDI 170bhp Executive Saloon (mapped to 213bhp
)
2021 - ????: 2016 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 180bhp Titanium
2008 - 2009: 2004 Honda Accord 2.2 CDTI 136bhp Executive Saloon
2009 - 2013: 2002 Peugeot 406 2.0 HDI 110bhp Executive Saloon
2013 - 2021: 2007 Peugeot 407 2.2 HDI 170bhp Executive Saloon (mapped to 213bhp
)2021 - ????: 2016 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 180bhp Titanium
Hi all new to this group, firstly thanks for this thread as I have just purchased a 406 hdi D9 estate on 53, the interior was shot and i found a breakers with a leather interior for reasonable cost - so decided to upgrade - prob is interior was from a 1999 D8 saloon.
Door cards - I checked the door cards all seemed to match, so i bought it, good news all door cards fitted and the electrics for the little courtesy light was present in each door and simply plugged in no problems.
Rear Seats - the rear seats at initial glance looked ok they both had 60 / 40 split - problem is the split is on the wrong side plus the actual fittings are totally different - so this is a case of swap the covers maybe - i've had a look and i think it woiuld make a mess of what is a gorgeous back seat, even if it is possible, so thats a reaaaallll bummer.
Front seats - all fits together great and yes the electrics are present for virtually everything, heated seats airbags etc (D9 has side airbags as does d8 leather interior). I started with the passenger seat and had it fitted in about 20 mins - no wiring required everything was there just plug it in. Drivers seat i noticed i didnt have the ecu for the seat memory module and read lots of sites and stuff and this thread was the best, as i have just completed the rewiring i thought i would post a definitive answer on what needs to happen, as when i read this thread i found it a little confusing - although i got there in the end, and if i can do it just about anyone can.
essentially the ecu (i imagine) plugged into 3 things under the drivers seat the orange block which sends powers the 4 hydraulic motors, the large white block which receives directions from the switch and the memory switches, and a 12 volt power input, then the ecu dependsing on what it gets sent from the switches (through the white block), tells the mototrs what to do (through the orange block), and takes power from the small white blobk so you do not need to run a 12volt supply from the cigarette lighter.
All the other plugs
Plug it every plug that goes together they are all colour coded, and i was left with an empty orange plug (motor power) and an empty white plug (switch sends) and a smaller white plug with only 2 wires which was my 12 volt supply (yellow is +ve and white -ve).
12 volt supply
OK so heres what you do - make sure you have a bone fide 12 volt supply and return, if not then branch one of the ciggie lighter which shouldnt be too difficult, and run wires under the seat, my feed was already there (see above para) in that big bundle of wires, i rigged up a couple of little wires from the 12 volt supply to put on the motors to check they were working.
Power to the motors
OK because the ecu is missing the power cannot get to the motors you can check the motors work by manually powering the motors using your 12 volt supply (if you set up probes as described in the last paragraph), i touched the +ve on the red and the neg on the black of a pair prongs in the orange plug and presto the motor moved, reverse polarity and it goes back the other way - do this with all the pairs in the orange plug to check all motors and map the wires - note be careful not to touch the wires together or you'll blow the 20amp fuse in the dash, you can map what each motor does and make a note.
Lets get all the wires exposed
From the last exercise i could map out what wires powered what motors. You have to muller the plugs to wire this thing up, i didnt have any nice little plastic wire connectors so i pulled the individual prongs out of the plugs from the back. This was handy because when opened up a little the prongs actually slot into each other allowing you to experiment which connecting fat wire pairs from the white block with the pairs from the orange block. Check the passenger seat orange male plug to see what wires to extract from the white plug. Removing the prongs meant that the orange plug was completely empty and the white plug had about 5 thin wires left in it (the thinner ones and two larger red neg returns in the center of the plug), but from here i could play connecting the different pairs together, and then testeing by putting my 12 volt power to the seat switch (note you need to have the neg return connected also, this should be attached to the neg return in the center pin on the white plug - preferred) to make sure when you press the switch to move the backrest the seat doesnt slide forward. Be careful to keep the black and red pairs (taped) together as they were in the orange plug so they dont go astray, the pairs from the white plug all have unique colours and the pairs can be seen by checking the orange (male plug) from the passenger seat.
Eventually you will get all the each switch operating each motor correctly - this sounds confusing but isnt its just a case of trial and error, and you will have 4 red and 4 black woires from the orange plug connected to 8 multi coloured wires from the white plug - you can actually see what switch wires are supposed to do what by there position ion the switch.
Discover how the switch works
Pop out the drivers seat switch exposing the rear - do the same with the passenger side and you will see the difference the drivers side needs to be wired like the passenger side. The switch has two areas one for the back rest movement and one for the seat movement each of these on the drivers side have no wires going to one of the copper pads in each section, you can touch your 12 volt supply to this later to test the wiring, however each section has a negative wire which runs down to the white plug and both negative (red) wires are hooked into the white plug (the central prong) you can hook your negative return up to this one prong or wire.
Ok you can use your 12 volt supply direct to the back of the switch - the +ve needs to touch one of the +ve pads and the neg either needs to touch the neg in the switch section or the neg in the white plug - so now you have power and test you wiring get everything sorted and you should have the 8 wires from the orange plug hooked to each of eight wires from the white plug.
The switch - give it power
When you are happy everything is working solder in the power to the switch and the return (-ve) from the white plug - and thats it all working! - i have taken pictures during the rewiring which will help as i was getting a little confused writing it all down.
Hope this helps!
mac - defector from renault
Wire up the motors - the switch sends (white block) and the motors (orange block) need to be hard wired together as happens on the passenger side (there is a big orange plug that plugs straight in on the passenger side and no white plug to worry about. Essentially you have to plug most of the white block into all of the orange block. You can tell the candidate wires in the white block as they are fatter for carrying a 12 volt supply, and if you look at the orange block on the passenger seat it tells you what send wire marries with what motor wire (or so i thought). Problem was when i started wiring them copying the passenger side it turns out the drivers side wiring is slightly different but with you trusty 12 volt supply
Door cards - I checked the door cards all seemed to match, so i bought it, good news all door cards fitted and the electrics for the little courtesy light was present in each door and simply plugged in no problems.
Rear Seats - the rear seats at initial glance looked ok they both had 60 / 40 split - problem is the split is on the wrong side plus the actual fittings are totally different - so this is a case of swap the covers maybe - i've had a look and i think it woiuld make a mess of what is a gorgeous back seat, even if it is possible, so thats a reaaaallll bummer.
Front seats - all fits together great and yes the electrics are present for virtually everything, heated seats airbags etc (D9 has side airbags as does d8 leather interior). I started with the passenger seat and had it fitted in about 20 mins - no wiring required everything was there just plug it in. Drivers seat i noticed i didnt have the ecu for the seat memory module and read lots of sites and stuff and this thread was the best, as i have just completed the rewiring i thought i would post a definitive answer on what needs to happen, as when i read this thread i found it a little confusing - although i got there in the end, and if i can do it just about anyone can.
essentially the ecu (i imagine) plugged into 3 things under the drivers seat the orange block which sends powers the 4 hydraulic motors, the large white block which receives directions from the switch and the memory switches, and a 12 volt power input, then the ecu dependsing on what it gets sent from the switches (through the white block), tells the mototrs what to do (through the orange block), and takes power from the small white blobk so you do not need to run a 12volt supply from the cigarette lighter.
All the other plugs
Plug it every plug that goes together they are all colour coded, and i was left with an empty orange plug (motor power) and an empty white plug (switch sends) and a smaller white plug with only 2 wires which was my 12 volt supply (yellow is +ve and white -ve).
12 volt supply
OK so heres what you do - make sure you have a bone fide 12 volt supply and return, if not then branch one of the ciggie lighter which shouldnt be too difficult, and run wires under the seat, my feed was already there (see above para) in that big bundle of wires, i rigged up a couple of little wires from the 12 volt supply to put on the motors to check they were working.
Power to the motors
OK because the ecu is missing the power cannot get to the motors you can check the motors work by manually powering the motors using your 12 volt supply (if you set up probes as described in the last paragraph), i touched the +ve on the red and the neg on the black of a pair prongs in the orange plug and presto the motor moved, reverse polarity and it goes back the other way - do this with all the pairs in the orange plug to check all motors and map the wires - note be careful not to touch the wires together or you'll blow the 20amp fuse in the dash, you can map what each motor does and make a note.
Lets get all the wires exposed
From the last exercise i could map out what wires powered what motors. You have to muller the plugs to wire this thing up, i didnt have any nice little plastic wire connectors so i pulled the individual prongs out of the plugs from the back. This was handy because when opened up a little the prongs actually slot into each other allowing you to experiment which connecting fat wire pairs from the white block with the pairs from the orange block. Check the passenger seat orange male plug to see what wires to extract from the white plug. Removing the prongs meant that the orange plug was completely empty and the white plug had about 5 thin wires left in it (the thinner ones and two larger red neg returns in the center of the plug), but from here i could play connecting the different pairs together, and then testeing by putting my 12 volt power to the seat switch (note you need to have the neg return connected also, this should be attached to the neg return in the center pin on the white plug - preferred) to make sure when you press the switch to move the backrest the seat doesnt slide forward. Be careful to keep the black and red pairs (taped) together as they were in the orange plug so they dont go astray, the pairs from the white plug all have unique colours and the pairs can be seen by checking the orange (male plug) from the passenger seat.
Eventually you will get all the each switch operating each motor correctly - this sounds confusing but isnt its just a case of trial and error, and you will have 4 red and 4 black woires from the orange plug connected to 8 multi coloured wires from the white plug - you can actually see what switch wires are supposed to do what by there position ion the switch.
Discover how the switch works
Pop out the drivers seat switch exposing the rear - do the same with the passenger side and you will see the difference the drivers side needs to be wired like the passenger side. The switch has two areas one for the back rest movement and one for the seat movement each of these on the drivers side have no wires going to one of the copper pads in each section, you can touch your 12 volt supply to this later to test the wiring, however each section has a negative wire which runs down to the white plug and both negative (red) wires are hooked into the white plug (the central prong) you can hook your negative return up to this one prong or wire.
Ok you can use your 12 volt supply direct to the back of the switch - the +ve needs to touch one of the +ve pads and the neg either needs to touch the neg in the switch section or the neg in the white plug - so now you have power and test you wiring get everything sorted and you should have the 8 wires from the orange plug hooked to each of eight wires from the white plug.
The switch - give it power
When you are happy everything is working solder in the power to the switch and the return (-ve) from the white plug - and thats it all working! - i have taken pictures during the rewiring which will help as i was getting a little confused writing it all down.
Hope this helps!
mac - defector from renault
Wire up the motors - the switch sends (white block) and the motors (orange block) need to be hard wired together as happens on the passenger side (there is a big orange plug that plugs straight in on the passenger side and no white plug to worry about. Essentially you have to plug most of the white block into all of the orange block. You can tell the candidate wires in the white block as they are fatter for carrying a 12 volt supply, and if you look at the orange block on the passenger seat it tells you what send wire marries with what motor wire (or so i thought). Problem was when i started wiring them copying the passenger side it turns out the drivers side wiring is slightly different but with you trusty 12 volt supply