is it dying?

Shocks, springs, anything to do with the running gear

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straggler
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is it dying?

Post by straggler »

I'm on an extended European road trip in my 96 1.9 XUDT. All has been well (apart fora few niggles) until today. I was driving at about 65mph when the steering wheel started shaking just like a wheel was out of balance. It was accompanied by a vibration and a humming noise. I put this down to the road surface (out of hopeless optimism) but it started doing it again about an hour later. I pulled over and checked wheel nuts, that there was nothing wrapped around the driveshafts etc but couldn't see anything obviously wrong. But the front driver's side wheel was hot.

Anyway, it carried on like this until I turned quite a sharp turn. There was a sharp-pitched grinding noise for about two seconds and then a clonk and everything now seems fine. Any ideas? Nothing's leaking, grinding or otherwise broken, as far as I can see. But I am as far from the UK as I'm going to be on this trip so will head home if it sounds like it might be a nasty.....
PeterN
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Re: is it dying?

Post by PeterN »

Odd one, could be the o/s CV joint failing but I have never heard of those symptoms before. Possibly a stone jammed in the o/s front brake? I would suspect that whatever happened had now cleared, I would just continue driving it and see what happens.

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barbaren
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Re: is it dying?

Post by barbaren »

Front wheelbearing.
If the joints are failing, it will make loud clonk noises
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Welly
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Re: is it dying?

Post by Welly »

Sounds a bit like a sticking front caliper but if everything's now ok just take it easy and keep checking the wheel for heat. Ideally if it is that problem you'd need to strip the brakes, clean everything and reassemble with copper slip on the caliper slide pins etc.. easier said than done when you're 'on the road'.
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dirtydirtydiesel
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Re: is it dying?

Post by dirtydirtydiesel »

I agree with welly :shock:
Does sound like a sticking caliper, a wheel bearing wouldn't make the wheel hot.
But don't use copper grease on the slider pins,
It dries out & causes the caliper to stick prematurely :roll:
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Welly
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Re: is it dying?

Post by Welly »

dirtydirtydiesel wrote:I agree with welly :shock:
You're surprised?
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Bailes1992
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Re: is it dying?

Post by Bailes1992 »

Sounds like the exact symptoms I had in my 1.9TD when the inner CV joint failed. Maybe you have a slightly sticky calliper too as a coincidence.
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straggler
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Re: is it dying?

Post by straggler »

Thanks for the posts. Discovered it's a binding front brake.

Now I'm back in the UK I want to take the caliper off to give it a clean. Can someone talk me through this? I've changed pads before but don't want to mess with anything ABS-related.

Thanks!
dirtydirtydiesel
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Re: is it dying?

Post by dirtydirtydiesel »

To be fair if your asking that I'd probably say stay away :roll:
These are your brakes, the single most important thing on your car.
Do not mess if you're unsure.
If you still wish to go ahead then....
The abs is no problem, you will need to clamp the flexible line to prevent fluid loss before removing the caliper
then with the caliper on the bench remove & inspect the slider pins ( usually siezed) followed by the piston.
Both repair kit's are available on ebay, but it might be better to just buy a refurbished caliper :roll:
Bleeding is straight forward unless you have drained the whole system :wink:
Always start with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder, working your way to the closest.
2002 110 HDi estate, Rapier in monaco blue! ( found quite a bit more power :cheesy: ) SOLD I've sorted the airbag light :cheesy:
1998 3.0 V6 SE coupe in Diablo Red ( my baby ) sold
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2006 BMW e61 535d m-sport :supafrisk: run's for cover :lol:
straggler
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Re: is it dying?

Post by straggler »

dirtydirtydiesel wrote:To be fair if your asking that I'd probably say stay away :roll:
These are your brakes, the single most important thing on your car.
Do not mess if you're unsure.
If you still wish to go ahead then....
The abs is no problem, you will need to clamp the flexible line to prevent fluid loss before removing the caliper
then with the caliper on the bench remove & inspect the slider pins ( usually siezed) followed by the piston.
Both repair kit's are available on ebay, but it might be better to just buy a refurbished caliper :roll:
Bleeding is straight forward unless you have drained the whole system :wink:
Always start with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder, working your way to the closest.

I agree! I've booked it in with my local garage to have it done. Don't have the enthusiasm (or the torx sockets) these days for fiddly jobs that can go badly wrong. But i am going to silicone the sunroof and back lights to stop the leaks!
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