Broken front spring

[panadero]

Just broken my OSF spring - first time in 50 years motoring. I have looked at Haynes and Youtube for repair
guidance but I am not sure if the strut has to come off. Anyone know if you can get the spring off without
removing the strut and is there any guidance about how to do it on this website? I know I need compressor tool. Luckily it
happened on my drive and not on the highway. I do not have breakdown insurance at present so
if on a motorway it would have been interesting.

PS Just seen posting from May this year with good advice from Gumby. Sounds like I need to get the
strut off and take it together with a new spring to a garage for them to remove the spring and replace.
A DIY job using a compression tool does sound a bit iffy. Fair amount of labour to be saved by following
good advice from Gumby then. Thanks.

[lozz]

Hi.
The 'strut will have to come off..

Some points here to note if you tackle this job.

The springs are 'massive..so you will need a set of big clamps..
When working with springs point it in the direction of open space..

Otherwise if they 'go ping..they can be lethal..

If you've got a garage near by I'd 'recommend taking the strut off and let them fit the spring on..
Some garages charge around 10 -20 quid but its worth it to save the hastle..

[panadero]

Thanks lozz

[GingerMagic]

Every case I have read about a broken spring has happened when the car is either parked, or moving at less than 5mph, normally at home too...
I guess when the car is moving faster there is less stress on the spring when turning the wheel, but when stationary all the pressure is on the spring...

[panadero]

Thanks for those comments. I have done a fair amount of jacking up of the front of the car so maybe that is a factor as well in
putting stress on the spring. Also someone said that the OSF goes more often because of the weight of the driver on the offside.

[jasper5]

Don't forget that a seized top mount bearing can be a factor when a spring breaks....the spring will "wind up" when the bearing has seized and help cause a break.
The top mount bearing should be checked or replaced when replacing a spring.

[panadero]

Thanks for that. Just watched a brilliant youtube video on removal of a 406 strut. The mechanic in this video
found that the top bearing had gone, just as you say, which fault had apparently caused knocking. He was not dealing with
a broken spring but the method used looks exactly the same. I was puzzled that he was using clamps in the process of
getting the strut off i.e. before removal of strut from the wheel arch. Is this necessary because if I bought a clamp and did likewise
there would seem little point in then taking the strut to the garage to replace the spring? mmmm.

[jasper5]

Thanks for that. Just watched a brilliant youtube video on removal of a 406 strut. The mechanic in this video
found that the top bearing had gone, just as you say, which fault had apparently caused knocking. He was not dealing with
a broken spring but the method used looks exactly the same. I was puzzled that he was using clamps in the process of
getting the strut off i.e. before removal of strut from the wheel arch. Is this necessary because if I bought a clamp and did likewise
there would seem little point in then taking the strut to the garage to replace the spring? mmmm.

He was probably using the clamps in that way so that the clamps fit on easier with the spring already compressed and would make the job easier.
You would have to remove the strut and then use the clamps to help remove the spring then to compress (as lozz said) a very long spring which can be very difficult even for a pro like me.
I actually use 2 sets of clamps on these for safety....on some spring jobs I go to a mates garage to have the spring compressed in his hydraulic spring compressor for safety.
Be very careful if you decide to do it yourself.

[gumby6371]

In the end I did the job myself.
No need to compress the spring during removal, I've removed struts with and without and it makes bugger all difference on a 406 (other cars may vary).
I used some Halfords spring compressors which were fine, just remember to only tighten small amounts on each one at a time so the spring compresses evenly minimising the chance of them slipping off. If you can get the locking type then do, if not a few heavy duty cable ties won't go amiss to keep the claws engaged with the spring.
Rough guesstimate I did half inch then swapped to the other side, possibly could have done more but I was more concerned with not losing a limb or my life than how long it was taking.
As already said position the strut so if it goes it has a safe trajectory, you'll need to wind them down further than you think to fit the top mount.

Not a difficult job at all but it certainly gets the bum twitching until you get the top mount back on
Best advice I can give is take your time and don't cut corners

The other thing is to make sure no damage to brake lines etc occurred when the spring let go.

[panadero]

If I understand you right although the clamp does not have to be on the spring o get the strut off, it definitely has
to be there on the new spring to get the strut back in position correctly. If that is the case then I will probably get the strut off myself
and leave the rest to the mobile mechanic (bit of a compromise). Much obliged for your advice.

PS does anyone know what the proper technical term is for the rubber ring which sits on the bottom rung of the
coil spring. Mine has broken along with the spring and I'm not too sure firstly if this part is strictly necessary anyway and
secondly is it available on the internet?