So the stuff arrives (the refurb kit being for a Fiat coupé, but I know they're the same brakes) and I get to work. Then stop and go to Machine mart for a vice. Then stop and go to Halfords for a couple of bolts to attach said vice to the worktop. A vice is essential for this job. In fact, I'll list the tools I used:
Vice, 6" opening
10mm allen socket, Halfords Professional, 1/2" drive. Tough enough for impact wrench use
1/2" drive mains powered impact wrench, >500Nm. Utterly essential.
2 foot, 1/2" drive breaker bar
24oz ball pein hammer
T27 bit, 1/4" socket holder
4mm allen socket
Metal files
11mm open-ended spanner
11mm crow's foot socket
11mm 1/4" socket
Jacks + axle stands.
T55 socket, 1/2"
Punch
Hacksaw
Chisel
Threadlocker
Copper slip
Strips of cardboard, about 6"x12"
Pliers
Toothbrush (actually, sold with wire brushes, has stiff plastic bristles)
Dust mask.
1. Put the dust mask on and attack the callipers vigorously with the toothbrush. Get as much brake dust off as possible.
2. Put the calliper in the vice, bleed nut upwards. Use the cardboard to protect the calliper. Remove the bleed nuts then put the new ones in. Carefully. It's VERY easy to cross-thread these buggers. They're something like M10x1mm, which isn't a thread you can buy a tap for at Machine Mart. Guess how I know... The thing to remember is the calliper is an aluminium alloy, and the bleed nuts are a lot harder, so they have a tapping action. Your callipers will also have a lot of corrosion and age-related issues, so chances are your new nuts won't go in smoothly. Good luck. If you mess this up, you may well have written off the calliper. Don't bother with the dust caps.
3. Grab the hacksaw and cut the short pipe which joins the two sides of the callipers. Cut it both sides near the ends, so you can use a socket to remove them. You want to have the calliper in the vice with the pipe facing upwards unless you want everything to get wet.
4. Use the 11mm socket to remove the pipe connectors. If they start to round, grab the chisel/punch and give it a good smack. If it loosens the connector, great. If not, just destroy it. Given the construction of the brake pipe, you've not got to worry about needing to drill anything - once the nut part breaks up, the rest will come out easily.
5. Remove from vice, turn upside down, and allow to drain. Good time to do the other one...
6. Put the knackered connectors back in the callipers, or some bleed nuts, or something, just to block the hole.
7. Now it's time to break out the heavy duty kit and get the four big allen screws. I had absolutely zero success using hand tools - I felt like the breaker bar was delivering enough torque, but was getting seriously worried about rounding the screws. The impact wrench did well though, but those things are in tighter than wheel hub nuts.
8. Let's get those shims off. Hammer the T27 socket into the screws - hard, to shock the screws loose - then unscrew while putting as much pressure as you can on the wrench head. Once they're off, scrape off as much of the corrosion as you can (hint: if it's not visible, it's under the paint!), then attack the sides with a file to get rid of a load of the corrosion and level things off a bit.
This is a good time to give the callipers a good clean. If you want to get them painted, I suggest screwing them back together and doing it now.
9. Lever the pistons out. There's a groove in the sides which the seals fit into. That's where you do your levering. No idea how to get the seals out without knackering them, but they're going to be old and knackered so it's no big worry. Once out, clean 'em up, clean up the wells, then replace the dust seals. Lubricate the new seal rings with some brake fluid, then smear more fluid around the pistons and wells. Gently hammer the new pistons in and push the dust seals home. I used the ring of a ring spanner to push them down.
10. Apply a generous amount of copper slip to the bottom of the new shims then screw them in. Wipe off excess grease
11. Screw the two halves back together then have fun putting the new brake pipe in. All I can say is that you need the two connectors to screw straight in - they can't be at an angle. Also, you want a slight bend near both connectors in order to get the pipe into the slot. I guess after you've bent the pipe correctly, you should really paint it to protect it from the elements. I haven't though...
12. Fit the new bleed nut dust caps.
Now the callipers are ready to go back on the car.
If you've survived this far, expect the brake hose connector to round off
