406oc.co.uk

I think I have mentioned it before but I have a clunking on the nearside rear when I go over rough road. I have changed the drop link as this was worn, however the knocking is still there. I have some wear in the bush that I think is the rear suspention arm. It has a biggish bush in it and this is where there is a bit of play. When I have a couple of adults or some weight in the back it is not so aparent.
Can anyone tell me if it is an easy one to change or do I need certain tools to remove and refit. I am ok with using tools. It is a 406 saloon, 1.9 deisel. 2000 model. Thanks for any advice.

if you have replaced the rear droplink you need to get your tracking checked.
think the bush you mean needs pressing out.

you changed the droplink ? the droplink isnt usually a problem on the 406.

its the toplink on the rear that usually clunks . have you changed the rear toplink ? this is the link that needs tracking checked if its changed,

didnt know tracking needed doing if rear droplink is changed.

Morning gents, I have had a look at the top link, the one that alters the tracking and the rubber covers look a bit perished. I know this needs setting up again if changed but reading the advice in the forum if I mark the stud with some sort of paint and replace in the same position it should be fairly close to being still set ok. I cannot see any movement in it but thats not to say its ok. Well it looks like my hands are goingto get dirty again.
Thanks for your input gentleman.

it will more than likely be this top link thats causing the clunking sound.

what i do is put 3 big lines across the bolt and onto the bracket with a permanent marker pen so you can line these back up once new link fitted.

ive changed them a number of times of past 3 years and never needed tracking doing ..

4 wheel tracking isnt cheap so i make sure it goes on same way. your looking at about £40 to £60 for 4 wheel lazer tracking.

another tip for removing the outta ball joint bolt. what i do is remove the inner bolt 1st the one that adjust's the camber. once that bolt is out i spin the link round so thats its facing outwards away from the car. i then force it up with my hand . what this does is traps the outer ball joint inside so you can remove the nut without it spinning. more force on the link with your hand is better.

and as always plenty wd40 before and during the process.

To test the top links.

grab the top of the wheel 120clock pull it and feel for any play,
ive found in the past, you dont notice any play in the top links if the cars raised,

test them with the wheel on and with the car on the ground,
took me awhile to work that one out,

Cheers Gary and Lozz, sorry for the late reply. My back has gone off so will wait till thats setled down, maybe a week or so. Thanks for the info gary, I think I should be able to do it from what you say there. Will be back and let you all know how I have got on. Cheers