406oc.co.uk

I had 2 front tyres and the tracking done at the weekend and it's improved the handling massively as I was getting SCARY rear end sway.
The NSF was a racing slick on the outside edge.
It hasn't cured it 100% so I'll be doing the rear links to firm things up.
I was just wondering where to get decent quality 'affordable' replacements without visiting the dealers.
The guy that did the tracking said I could bring it back in a month for a free check up so if i get the links done before then I can have the tracking adjusted for free

only your front will be free again. the rear end tracking requires 4 wheel lazer tracking.

if you change the rear toplinks yourself it might be a good idea to get a set of nuts and bolts for the inner side. this bolt adjusts the wheels camber.

if your taking it for tracking after you done them it doesnt matter how you put them on. these bolts are an offset bolt washer type thing . you will know what i mean when you see it. and if your not taking it for tracking after you done them you need to fit them exactly the same way the old ones came off....

ps 2 sets of nuts and bolts are dealer only,, about £10 which is rediculous for 2 bolts and nuts .... i have 2 sets on order from my main dealer pickup 2moro cos mine need doing badly.

i get links from ebay £9.50 for both.. never had any problems with them myself (altho some say the cheap ebay ones are rubbish.)

these are the ones you will need . 99% sure . its too common for these to go on the back

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-406-a ... 439c7d393e

I just did these on my D8, quite an easy job. Mark the bolts - I used a metal saw - and put them in the exact same place and you'll be fine. A few tips if you have trouble - on the outer end you can remove the rubber bit and hold the bolt with a wisegrip. I had to do this on one side. If the inner bolt is rusted use an angle grinder and cut it on both sides. Will then come off easily.

easier way to do it than with a grinder.
simply undo and remove the inner bolt 1st. and knock the link down.
spin it round so its facing away from the car
grab hold of the bar and force it with your hand and force the link up or down . this puts tension on the ball joint inside and stops it spinning round . keep force on the link rod while undoing the bottom bolt
you may wanna get a friend to force the bar up while you undo the bolt
but i managed on my own with ease

What are the symptoms of drop links in need of replacement? I've got a rear end creak that I've been unable to locate thus far, could these be the culprits?

creak as in knocking over small bumps and humps in the road ? and over rough road surface..

grab your wheel at 3 and 9 o clock . put hand behind on 1 side and in front on other. pull and push and the alternate your hands doing the same .

can you feel play in the wheel ? you will feel it knock as you pull and push

Gary406 wrote:easier way to do it than with a grinder.
simply undo and remove the inner bolt 1st. and knock the link down.
spin it round so its facing away from the car
grab hold of the bar and force it with your hand and force the link up or down . this puts tension on the ball joint inside and stops it spinning round . keep force on the link rod while undoing the bottom bolt
you may wanna get a friend to force the bar up while you undo the bolt
but i managed on my own with ease

Ah, I may have explained myself badly. One of mine had the inner bolt stuck in the inner joint, and I could not knock it out with a hammer nor cut it because I didnt buy new bolts (stupid, I know), while the outer bolt spun around. The grinder was for the inner bolt:)

the inner bolt should easily come off with 2 ratchets and 2 sockets with extension bars.

spray plenty WD40 while doing it . thats what i did