406oc.co.uk

Hi,
There seem to be 3 different types of ball joint splitters/separators available:

• Fork http://www.bluepoolinternet.com/externa ... k-type.jpg
• Scissor type http://www.bluepoolinternet.com/externa ... r-type.jpg
• Cup type http://www.bluepoolinternet.com/externa ... p-type.jpg

Or shown below:

Fork


Scissor


Cup type


In your opinion and experience, which is the "best" for ball joint separation without damaging the rubber seal on the ball joints?
(Yes I'm aware of the "lever and hit with hammers2 alternative approach to separation, I'm interested in the tools in this case.)

Thank you.

I have not used a ball joint seperator in all my 41 years as a mechanic. A 2lb hammer hitting the side of the suspension arm is plenty good enough to shock the ball joint free.

If you insist on using a tool, the most likely one to cause damage to the rubber boot will be the fork type.

jasper5 wrote:I have not used a ball joint seperator in all my 41 years as a mechanic. A 2lb hammer hitting the side of the suspension arm is plenty good enough to shock the ball joint free.

If you insist on using a tool, the most likely one to cause damage to the rubber boot will be the fork type.

every single time ive used a splitter the only thing its split is the rubber, as a result it just hit the surround with a hammer, sometimes takes a few hits but always works

ijust genly smack side of wishbone with hammer, they split easy enough,
for stuburn ones ive made cold chisel into V shape with a grinder,

ive never bought a splitter, waste of money,

I use a scissor type one on my mini, works nicely. Don't like to hit it too hard while its jacked up for fear of knocking it off the stands.

jasper5 wrote:I have not used a ball joint seperator in all my 41 years as a mechanic. A 2lb hammer hitting the side of the suspension arm is plenty good enough to shock the ball joint free.

If you insist on using a tool, the most likely one to cause damage to the rubber boot will be the fork type.

Yeah, I must admit that I already have the fork type and have successfully destroyed the rubber boot.
I usually try a combination of fork AND a long lever and a hammer.

I have exactly the same cup type as pictured, and it's crap. It didn't fit my 405/406 lower arms very well and had to be ground a bit wider. It also wrecks the hex bit at the end of the balljoint thread, I got around this by placing a penny over it. However I just used a big hammer and brute force last time, worked fine. I find it helps if you put a jack under the protruding balljoint thread and raise it up a bit.

ally406 wrote:I have exactly the same cup type as pictured, and it's crap. It didn't fit my 405/406 lower arms very well and had to be ground a bit wider. It also wrecks the hex bit at the end of the balljoint thread, I got around this by placing a penny over it.

Ah! Now that is good to know for those tempted to use one - thank you for relating the experience.

It sounds like there are two points of design failure:
* Poor clearance (failure to fit, needing grinding)
* damage to the hex bit - surely some kind of "cap" design would improve it?

Then again - it seems like time and time again, the "Clarkson" approach wins out against all separators/splitters.