406oc.co.uk

What up guys,

I am trying to Replace the CV joints first stumbling block is the hub nut, I'm wondering if anyone knows the correct socket size that is needed, I have tried a 36mm socket first but it still too small.

Thanks alot

Kris

Hi mate,

What car is it , 406 hdi ?

a 36 mm socket fitted mine and was slightly slack,

shouid be around 35mm ithink

Cheers mate, i will try that ASAP!

Kris

I have a sealy "peugeot hub nut tool" which is 35mm, had to buy it for my 405, not looked at the 406. Let us know when you find out!

36mm is what iused but it wasnt a good fit,
best off with 35mm, ichewed the nut slightly on mine using the 36mm,

Might be best replacing the split pin too as ifound they Rattle once theyve been took out and re-used.

hi guys

i ended up buying a 35mm socket, it fit and did the job, i have a 1.8L petrol

the problem now is that i cant get the CV joint out of the hub assembly, i loosened the bolts and turned them 90 degrees like Mr Haynes said and it still wont come out.

i have tried beating it with a rubber mallet and pulled at it and ended up pulling the middle shft out of the transmission but the outer CV and shaft is still connected to the inner joint.

it is being a proper pain in the ass

Any suggestions

All help appreciated

Thanks

Kris

Hi Kris

I had to take the o/s/f driveshaft out recently to do a cv boot and lower engine mount on my 406 hdi i'm assuming that a 1.8 petrol would have a similar setup? Anyways the intermediate bearing on mine was seized ( sits in the casing bolted to back of engine driveshaft goes right through it behind those two nuts that you have to turn through 90degrees) I had to get right underneath and from behind the pot joint you will see a metal bush that sits on the driveshaft in front of the bearing using a drift or something very soft give the bush a gentle tap outwards towards the hub working your way round and you should be able to get the cv joint out of the hub. Hope this helps and yes this was a pita job.

cheers marco

i would think it is the same setup as the 2.0 Hdi

i will have a try of that tomorrow, could you explain a little more about the metal bush.
at the moment it is stil connected to the hub and the shaft leading to those intermediate bearing bolts
could i remove the inner boot/gaiter then use the leverage of the shaft to pull on the joint?

thanks
Kris

406Kris wrote:cheers marco

i would think it is the same setup as the 2.0 Hdi

i will have a try of that tomorrow, could you explain a little more about the metal bush.
at the moment it is stil connected to the hub and the shaft leading to those intermediate bearing bolts
could i remove the inner boot/gaiter then use the leverage of the shaft to pull on the joint?

thanks
Kris

Best thing to do here...as you replacing the cv joint....

With the nut off, spray lots of WD40 inside the hub where the nut fits and the splines are, wait a few minutes for the WD40 to get going, then whack the end of the cv joint with a proper hammer....you don't need a rubber one if you are replacing the cv joint.

Then you can pull the whole shaft out when the 2 inner bearing bolts are out.

Remove the gaitor, whack the old cv joint off the shaft with a hammer...you don't need to worry about damage as you are replacing the cv joint.

Remove the old boot and circlip, clean the end of the shaft then fit a new cv boot onto the shaft....if your new cv joint hasn't got grease in it....without fitting the circlip onto the shaft...shove the new cv joint onto the shaft and grease it up swivelling it around to pack the grease in, of course if it has new grease in then fit a new ciclip if one is supplied or fit the old one after slighty squashing it up in the jaws of pliers or molegrips, then gently fit the new cv joint onto the shaft....if it feels like it won't go on, get a small screwdriver and push in the ends of the circlip as you push or gently tap the new cv joint onto the shaft.

Add more grease if it needs it then clip up the new cv boot....refit the shaft etc and fill the gearbox through the breather hole or the reverse light switch.

Jasper explains it much better than i ever could. Good luck tommorow.

See the clutch change howto in the knowledge base - i'm sure i have pictures of the offending pain in the backside intermediate bearing and those godforsaken pins which need to be rotated. My advice is to clean the pins as best you can so you can see that they're clear of the bearing to allow it to be removed. On mine, there's not much in it between looking about right, and then actually being able to pull the driveshaft out.

The drivshaft does need a bit of welly though. On mine it's 2 hands and pull with all my weight to get the swine out... as long as the bloody pins are aligned, else it's not going anywhere.


BTW, have you remembered to:
1) drain the gearbox oil
2) buy new gearbox oil?

Yes, that's the voice of experience speaking

Thanks for the details,

The transmission oil leaked out when the middle shaft pulled out.

The other thing I came across and the reason I am changing the CV Joints
Is the knocking when i turn the wheel, but when turning the hub I noticed the spring slipping
Which makes me wonder if that is the problem rather than the joints themselves

Any ideas?

Thanks
Kris

that'll be the strut bearings knackered...

The knocking will be the strut bearing?
Mr Haynes reckons it's the cv joints,
I got the o/s cv joint out now, they look ok to me
just a little surface rust and packed full of grease

Thanks

Kris

Hi guys

I got the cv joint replaced eventually!!
The drive shaft came out of the intermediate bearing which made easier to replace
But the I damaged the boot/gaiter clip and the lower ball joint which I have ordered a replacement
It was a pig of a job but I think I'll be able to do the nearside alot quicker and without damaging anything too

Thanks for all the help

Kris