Are different wheel bolts required

[FarmerPug]

When i changed my wheels to the nimrod alloys i just used the old wheel bolts with the alloys, but the wheelnuts that came on the breaker 406 looked like they had wide heads with washers on them, i threw them away because of the stripped threads but I'm wondering should i change the wheel bolts,

Im just using the old wheel bolts which have the "countersink" head on them, im just wondering are they safe.

[GingerMagic]

Hi mate, its probably best to find a set of bolts that will fit flush against the rim, so countersunk for countersunk alloys and flats seated bolts for flat seated alloys...

What you have will be okay as the tapered bolts will settle in the flat hole nicely anyway, but maybe find some flat ones when you can, for peace of mind. ( 205 Gti for example )

Have you checked how much thread is poking out of the rear of the alloy when you put a bolt in?

The most important thing is using alloy bolts for alloys and steel bolts for steelies..

[gumby6371]

When I got my starfish alloys I did try and fit them with the original steel wheel bolts, I barely got 2 turns on them. I managed to get a set of the flat ones with washers from a breakers yard for £10.
Personally I wouldn't drive it without the correct ones fitted and I dare say your insurance wouldn't cough up if a wheel escaped and you had the wrong bolts attempting to hold them on.

[FarmerPug]

I got a set of the correct wheel nuts from my local breakers £10 for 16 of them, a quick wire brush and some copper grease had them ready to go on:


All torqued up to 90Nm:


Ive started using a bit of plastic pipe over sockets when i go near the alloys to prevent them getting scratched, possibly OCD but after getting them refurbished i dont want to have any scratches:


I also got the wheels aligned today for £20, the front wheels have only been on 2 months but already there is mild wear on the outer edge of both, the old tyres were bald on their outer edges, the camber was off and something to do with toes was adjusted.

[steve_earwig]

Toe in, toe out, toe jam...

Fair dos with the plastic pipe, if the paint wasn't baked on it'll be soft for a while.

[rwb]

copper grease

I thought the received wisdom was never to grease wheel bolts because for example if you do then it alters the required torque?

Mine are gagging for some copper grease, they're dry and scratchy, but I have refrained.

[steve_earwig]

And it makes them more likely to pick up crap when you take them out and put them to once side. That said I've always used cooper grease too, I can't see it affecting the torque by much (not anal enough to use one on the wheel bolts anyway ) because if they're a mass of corrosion they'll be damaging the threads as you wind them in and out, plus there's always the chance you'll get a puncture and the standard wheel brace will prove inadequate to remove them because they're corroded in place. I also lightly grease the hubs with it because I remember the time I took my Scirocco in for some tyres and they had to use a sledge hammer to get the front wheels off

[FarmerPug]

All the copper grease should make a puncture very easy to deal with but to compensate for the easyness in the boot there is a jack with no handle, a wheel brace with no socket which does not fit the jack, and a 15 inch spare (the car is now on 16's) that is both flat and bald

[steve_earwig]

Err, you didn't get a spare with a jack etc. off the 90?

[Welly]

Someone's up early Mr Earwig?

[steve_earwig]

Bleurgh, woke up in the early hours with gut ache

[Welly]

Eww

[FarmerPug]

Err, you didn't get a spare with a jack etc. off the 90?

The 90 had been hit in the rear 1/4 panel so the boot did not close, the spare wheel well was a pond, the jack had turned into a solid item, i have the steel wheel and just need to put it into my car, but thats one of them jobs along with changing the bulb in the fridge that are very easy but that never get done