Page 2 of 2
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 2:28 pm
by Chaz
Ive just tried to adjust the wife's Pug 2.0 cable and when the car started to roll forward (long story) I janked it up and snapped the cable.
Ive now removed the handbrake inside the car and got the cable out. The actual unit where it goes into the car (plastic thing) is still there. The cable I pulled out what cos the end crimp snapped off so the sheathing is still in place.
How do I remove this? Is there something to take off and push it back down out of the car? I suspect this is teh case from looking how teh cable comes. The rear cable going to the left hand wheel looks ok - need to take off the bit that is snapped. The other one which has the 'set screw' is fairly rusted but I suspect it will be OK. How difficult / worth it is it to replace the rear ends? Also - how / where did you adjust them?
This seems to be the replacement -
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Peugeot-406-Front ... 286.c0.m14
Hope no nasty surprises. The plate at the rear's bolts have snapped off - rusted. So much for the MOT planned for tomorrow .....
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 4:43 pm
by ddoherty406
Hows it goin chaz. unlucky fella. Right im not 2 sure where your cable has snapped. Theres three cables. the one from the handle down to the wee plastic bit at the rear. And then theres one that goes off to the driver side and another one off to the passanger side.
Im guessing the wee silver bit circled red there has snaped off and then your left with the the bt circled green left on the cars shell. If this is the case, it is just sorta wedged in. Just give that a knock out with a hammer as it comes on the new cable. If thats the only bit it has snapped then that cable in the link will do the job.
Ive never replaced the other two cables so im not sure how hard they are to replace. When i got the bolt out i just sprayed loads of wd40 on it and cleaned the tread using the old nut before putting it into the new one.
As for ajusting them its very hard to explain unless you see the adjuster with the disk off. If i mind right on the passanger side it is around the 10 o'clock mark, so if you turn the disk until the hole in the disk is there and then using a flat headed screw driver turn the screw on the adjuster until the disks can no longer turn and then turn the adjuster back a nick or two. then do the other side. Then do the other side (adjuster about 2 oclock) and then hook all the cables up and adjust the big bolt thats in the plastic bit of the new cable.
Im not great at explaining these things but i hope that helps you, and good luck with the mot.
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 9:25 pm
by Chaz
Hi Mate,
No, the long main cable as snapped at the rear.
The other ones are OK. The question is how to remove the main cable from the car. I have teh handbrake out and the inner cable pulled out as the ferrule on the end was snapped off. How do I get the main 'outer' casing of the cable out from the area where it goes into the car near the handbrake?
Thanks
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 9:27 pm
by Chaz
Thanks, hadnt read your full reply - Ill try to just wedge that piece out. Now just need to find someone who can supply a cable ASAP. Any ideas for reliable delivery, even if not the cheapest cable?
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 12:26 am
by ddoherty406
aaaah i know what you mean now. Yea just knock it out! As for a new one it all depends on where you are. I got mine in my local motor factors for £10 I think. Got it there and then so it was handy enough.
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:31 pm
by Chaz
Thanks. Wife phoned the MOT place and they said to bring it in. Charged around £20 for the cable and around £30 for the labour and it passed its MOT. A bit surprising considering the exhaust is leaking and about to fall off. Oh well, saves me a bit of time to source a cable and install.
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:55 pm
by ddoherty406
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 5:02 pm
by ddoherty406
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 5:21 pm
by HimBigChief
Good work there fella. I like the ingenuity of changing a boot spoiler for a rear window spoiler!
You not fancy doing white mask mods to the headlights? Be a bit different to both standard and black mask ones. I did this once on a 405 and it looked mint. One thing I want to do to mine is to delock the boot as the badge/button is quite large really.
How low is your car, and are you running it without rear springs again?
Other than that, I do like your car and followed your guide to doing the debadged bumper and grill mod. I may steal your rear window guide too yet!
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 5:47 pm
by ddoherty406
Thanks very much for the comment. What are the mask mods like? i dont think ive seen them before, I probably have but just cant recall them, get pics up of the 405, im curious now. aha
The delocked boot would be a great mod, theres a how to guide on the 406 coupe forum.
I was already examining my mates focus estate to see if the system out of it could be used.
As for the springs, I simply cut two coils from the bottom of the of the rear springs and that way it sits just as low however everything is tighter and it doesnt bump around just as much. It also saves te shocks as they arent bottoming out.
The front has 2 and a half off them. Its a very bumpy drive still, but not as bad as it was with no springs.
Ive been following your thread too, and really like the colour of yours.
I must get a look at it to see what else youve done recently as I havent read it in a while.
Re: Credit crunch Project 2.0 16va va voom
Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 6:46 pm
by HimBigChief
To do a boot popper for the rear boot is really easy. I've done it before on my old 405's a few times now. Basically, you remove the locking mechanism, and then simply mount a standard central locking motor so that it can open and close the latch for the boot. Run an earth and a 12V switched live to the solenoid and jobsagoodun. The boot doesn't need to lock anymore as there is no way of undoing it from the outside anyway. BTW, the below car had the above solenoid boot popper device installed...
White masks on the old 405: