New owner

[munkymanmatt]

Hi all. Just bought my first diesel, a D8 1996 1.9td and I've plenty of questions and problems!
First off a list of current problems with the car that are obvious to me (I'm no expert)


My rev counter drops to 0 when engine braking

My oil temp gauge only works sometimes - usually works when starting the car and then goes dead again after a few seconds. (not even sure if this is how it's meant to work - never had a diesel before as I said!)

The ABS light is on when engine is running.

I have no radio and not sure if I can get an oem radio and CD player as the CD players on ebay are 1998+ only?

There is a loud rushing sound coming from the driver door at 65+ mph and some whistling - guessing the door seals need replacing.

I need a new gear knob as the current one is in bits!

The velour on the driver's seat is quite dirty - need to work out if it can be removed for washing.

The passenger's electric window goes down when you press the button and if you continue to hold the button to get it all the way down it will put itself back up. You can tap it to get it down but it takes a while. Driver's side controls don't open the passenger side windows in the front and rear. Rear passenger window not working at all.

Electric mirrors not working at all.

Rear demister button doesn't click or light up when you press it - seems like it's been disconnected, will need further investigation

The handbrake is quite weak. The car is easily pushed forward if facing down a gentle hill with handbrake applied (I learned this the hard way today as the car took off because I sat into it too quickly)

I have 2 keys and both of them have the buttons missing and dirt inside - I'm going to assume they're both broken and replace them - is this easily done by myself?

The front courtesy lights ( next to sunroof controls) don't come on when the driver's door is opened when set to turn on when a door is open. They don't come on on any setting if the key isn't in the ignition and turned. Rear courtesy lights come on whether or not there's a key in the ignition, and any door is opened.

There is a loud banging noise from the rear left wheel when I hit bumps - best guess is the shock absorber is knackered.

I accidentally tore off some of the stiff foam that covers the underneath of the engine. It is attached to the front bumper and seems easy enough to replace. I have no idea what this piece of foam is called though?


That's all I've spotted in 24 hours, if anyone could give me some advice on anything please do I'd really appreciate it!

[steve_earwig]

Hi there, welcome

Dear god, I hope it was cheap

My oil temp gauge only works sometimes - usually works when starting the car and then goes dead again after a few seconds. (not even sure if this is how it's meant to work - never had a diesel before as I said!)

It's an oil level gauge, it only works when you turn the car on for a few seconds, then it goes dead.

The ABS light is on when engine is running.

You've probably got a broken reluctor (toothed) ring on one of the driveshafts. Or it might be on a hub...

I have no radio and not sure if I can get an oem radio and CD player as the CD players on ebay are 1998+ only?

Are you sure you want one? There's much better stuff about these days...

There is a loud rushing sound coming from the driver door at 65+ mph and some whistling - guessing the door seals need replacing.

Or the window frame is bent Does it line up with the rest of the car?

The velour on the driver's seat is quite dirty - need to work out if it can be removed for washing.

Of course You'll need endless patience, strong fingers and the ability to heal quickly...

The passenger's electric window goes down when you press the button and if you continue to hold the button to get it all the way down it will put itself back up. You can tap it to get it down but it takes a while. Driver's side controls don't open the passenger side windows in the front and rear. Rear passenger window not working at all.

That's just weird I didn't think normal windows had anti-pinch and that would be backwards anyway! The rest, possibly broken wires but the control often hets a soaking when the driver's door is opened in the rain.

Electric mirrors not working at all.

Rain in the switch again, blown fuse or they're just rusted solid.

The handbrake is quite weak. The car is easily pushed forward if facing down a gentle hill with handbrake applied (I learned this the hard way today as the car took off because I sat into it too quickly)

They all do that sir New shoes, maybe disks, maybe cables, serious adjustment.

The front courtesy lights ( next to sunroof controls) don't come on when the driver's door is opened when set to turn on when a door is open. They don't come on on any setting if the key isn't in the ignition and turned. Rear courtesy lights come on whether or not there's a key in the ignition, and any door is opened.

Bulb, wiring maybe.

There is a loud banging noise from the rear left wheel when I hit bumps - best guess is the shock absorber is knackered.

Probably a link.

I accidentally tore off some of the stiff foam that covers the underneath of the engine. It is attached to the front bumper and seems easy enough to replace. I have no idea what this piece of foam is called though?

Undertray. Rip off the rest of it & bin it.

Gawd, all that in 24 hours, how much will you have found in a week?

[Nightshade]

Welcome along!

Seems like you've picked up a nice example! That's some good advice from Steve, I suspect a multimeter might be a fine friend to have, given your electrical woes.

Enjoy your stay, we're a friendly lot.

[GingerMagic]

Courtesy lights don't work either on my 1996 Pug 306, If I wiggle the push button on the pillar then it sometimes works - the next step is to remove it and soak it in WD40 or something.

406 handbrake is very much its weak point, although quite easy to adjust or replace discs/pads/shoes etc.

Steve is pretty much bob-on with the advice, although most forum members have had some issues before and most have been resolved, so hang in there..!!

[Doggy]

Hi, & welcome aboard.

As the others have said you've got a 'feature' or two in among your list of ills.

Almost all can be sorted, usually very cheaply.

[steve_earwig]

Steve is pretty much bob-on with the advice

Aww It's something to start with anyway. I wasn't sure about the keys, obviously not as tricky as a D9 but I'm not sure if the keys can be programmed into the car cheaply or if it would be better to get plips & receiver from the breakers. Don't forget the transponder chips! The speedo, no idea how they're fed on a D8 so I presume something to do with the ecu.

[dirtydirtydiesel]

Hi & welcome on in ,
As many others have stated most of your prob are easy to sort, but you'll need a multimeter & patiance to sort the electric's

[munkymanmatt]

Hi there, welcome

Dear god, I hope it was cheap

only 750 euros with almost a year's nct (irish mot), seemed a fair enough price.

It's an oil level gauge, it only works when you turn the car on for a few seconds, then it goes dead.

excellent, glad to hear there's one less problem to sort!

You've probably got a broken reluctor (toothed) ring on one of the driveshafts. Or it might be on a hub...

would that be difficult to check? I'm inexperienced in mechanics but a fast learner!

Are you sure you want one? There's much better stuff about these days...

very true but im on a tight budget, stock radios seemed the cheapest on ebay, plus I'm not sure the radio control stalk on the steering wheel would work with any old radio and it'd be handy to have that working!

Or the window frame is bent Does it line up with the rest of the car?

didn't see any obvious signs of this but I didn't look thoroughly, I'll check tomorrow in daylight!

Of course You'll need endless patience, strong fingers and the ability to heal quickly...

haha excellent

That's just weird I didn't think normal windows had anti-pinch and that would be backwards anyway! The rest, possibly broken wires but the control often hets a soaking when the driver's door is opened in the rain.

I'm not sure I explained properly! Basically what happens is, if I press and hold the button to lower the window for more than half a second, the window lowers a small amount and then suddenly goes all the way back up. Seems like the auto-close function used when you press the close button for a second or two (causing the window to continue closing itself) is activated when you hold the open button for a short time.

Rain in the switch again, blown fuse or they're just rusted solid.

I'll check for signs of rusting before I go looking at more electrics! fusebox would be close to the battery yes?

They all do that sir New shoes, maybe disks, maybe cables, serious adjustment.

Seems like something I might leave to the mechanic. Shoes seem cheap enough on the net though, could consider changing those myself.

Bulb, wiring maybe.

again reading back on my post I explained that badly. The bulbs work fine as the lights come on if I switch them on, but only when the ignition is primed. If the key isn't in the ignition the rear courtesy lights work but the front ones don't!

Probably a link.

nice one, bit cheaper to fix if so!

Undertray. Rip off the rest of it & bin it.

and leave it that way or replace it? good risk of going through some deep puddles, I live on the western coast of Ireland, rains 364 days of the year.

Gawd, all that in 24 hours, how much will you have found in a week?

hopefully nothing else but who knows!

Also another question I meant to ask, are the door panels difficult to replace after checking the wiring?

Thanks for all this lads!

[Welly]

That's all I've spotted in 24 hours, if anyone could give me some advice on anything please do I'd really appreciate it!

Yeah, stop looking for more things?

Bejesus that's a lot of faults, start with what's bugging you the most and go from there I guess?

Anyway welcome and there's always people on here willing to advise.

[steve_earwig]

Yeah, stop looking for more things?

start with what's bugging you the most and go from there I guess?

I dunno about that, it might be better to start of with the stuff that's potentially dangerous - a duff interior light is annoying but it doesn't jeopardise your well-being as much as, say, malfunctioning ABS or the rear tracking wandering all over the shop because of a knackered bush...

only 750 euros with almost a year's nct (irish mot), seemed a fair enough price.

D8 1996 1.9td

Seriously? Cars must be more expensive there than I thought

The front abs reluctors are on the driveshaft universal joints inside the hub. There's some good shots of something similar here http://www.reluctorrings.com/fitting but the video doesn't work for me so I don't know if it's any good or not. The rears are on the hub inside the brake: they look like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-406-A ... 4135e6f806 and on farmerpug's vid you can see where they are http://youtu.be/XgOw5SFb6J0 (the brake springs are nasty little bastards). It might be best for you to work out what the problem is and we'll work from there. If it's not a reluctor ring it'll be a sensor (argh!)

I guess it's up to you on the radio, I'm sure you could pick something that plays mp3s relatively cheaply but I'm not sure if anything works with the stalk with out some sort of expensive adaptor (anyone?). If you do get a genuine original Phillips make sure you get the code!

The passenger window shouldn't be a one hit, do you mean the driver's or has someone been a-tampering?

You have 2 fuse panels - one is above your knee between the steering column and door, the other us under the bonnet next to the battery and air filter. I guess you'll be looking in the passenger compartment one. This site has fuse schematics for D8s (on the left there).

Where were we?

Interior light - I'm not sure if D8s had pin switches like GM's 306 above. I can't remember but check for them I guess.

I understand where you're coming from about the undertray, both of mine left the factory without and the D9 tends to throw puddles into the drive belts if I drive through a deep puddle. If you can get one from a breaker be prepared for broken/missing/seized fastenings and have a supply of cable ties ready...

Door panels? You mean the inside trim panel, what they call a "door card" these days? Be prepared to break clips getting them off (the clips are a bit wierd so you can't just use any old thing but they were pennies from Pug last time I looked). There's only about 3 a card anyway, the rest is screws. Ah, cheers fp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rM5tWpgzgRw (that's a D9 but yours will be similar)

[gumby6371]

Welcome to the forum,

A couple of thoughts in addition to the good advice already given;

Check for and leaks around the aeriel, it's directly above the interior light and could be causing problems there.

Fixed a mates permanant ABS light the other day as the ABS sensor cable had been eaten by the stupid lowering kit he had fitted so worth checking for pinched cables.

Rev counter/speedo faults on the D8 are normally dry solder joints, had to resolder mine when I got it as I could go from 0 to 110 and back to 0 in under 2 seconds!!
There is a very good how to in the knowledge base.

Original D8 radios are coded so you'll need the code if you buy a second hand one, personally I dumped mine and fitted an MP3 player and live without the stalk control. Certain after market head units can be hooked up for the stalk tho.

Pull the seat out and vax it, much easier if you've got time to dry it.

Search the breakers for replacement window switches, they lever out quite easily and fit nicely in your pocket a dodgy kiddy lock switch could be the rear window fault.

Electric mirror fault is again probably the switches as they're all located together.

Good luck

[munkymanmatt]

Cheers for the replies lads.
Did a bit of work on it today, mainly electrics with a few odd jobs thrown in to break it up.
Got the door card off fairly handily, bar a stuck and rusted screw under the scooped handle thing (ended up drilling through it and then drilling with a reverse-drill bit to pop it out, took quite a while) and even managed to do it without breaking the clips! Took me a while to get the driver's door switches disconnected from the wiring looms, they were extremely stiff and I had to snap the clips off two altogether, no biggie as they were a very tight fit anyway.
The passenger window switch was already disconnected and the actual switch (under the button) was bent, see pics below.



Went through the fuses relevant to mirrors and windows, all seemed to be good, bar something I found in the main fuse panel beside the battery. This 25amp fuse was disconnected and you can see there are two connectors without fuses. No idea what these are as the guide to the fuses that I found doesn't mention them.


I found a much smaller fuse box next to it and right next to the battery, I'm guessing these are MF5-MF8 (no marking bar the letters e,f,g,h). The fuse guide thing says the 50 amp should be in MF8 and is to do with the ABS, but I'd have though it would be at either end of this box not one of the middle fuses (I have removed a third 40amp fuse to show the letter markings).


After confirming all the fuses that were possibly relevant were working, I set out assessing whether currents were reaching the fuses from the battery etc. with power on, then turned power off and tested from fuses to switches and switches onwards. This took a long time and I didn't get much done.
I confirmed that the current was ok to mirror controls, and from mirror controls to driver-side mirror (didn't get around to the passenger door today). So I wiggled the mirror for a while and hey presto, it worked... except if I want to move it to the right. Passenger mirror still not moving and no sound from the motor, so I'm going to assume for now that the control switches are stuffed.

I also fixed up the bent window switch and fought it into connecting with the loom. The passenger window problem has now changed a bit. both switches for the passenger window can get the window to go down, in small increments. It does not automatically close itself any more. Only the passenger door switch for it can close it, the driver's switch does nothing when I try to close it again. Annoying, but at least it's progress. I noticed that when I press the driver side controls for the passenger window, the light in the passenger side button goes off, telling me that the driver side control routes through the passenger side switch. Again I suspect it's a dodgy switch causing the problem.

I sprayed some wd40 into the passenger door lock as the key just rotated endlessly instead of unlocking the doors, I read on this forum that that would fix it and it did! Finally I stuck a bit of silicone over an exposed part of the top edge of the windscreen which had allowed water to get in and trickle down the edge of it (can't see it from inside but there's a white streak down the side of the glass from it) and also a part of the seal that I suspect is letting air through.

The courtesy lights not working without the ignition primed is seriously annoying me and I can't think of how I could sort this if it's not a leak from above thats caused the problem, would it be easy to figure out the circuitry for that function or am I better off leaving that to a mechanic?

If I get a long time tomorrow I'm going to jack her up and take a look for this reluctor ring on the driveshaft and maybe even look at sorting the rev counter.

[Doggy]

Good work so far.

I have an intermittent problem with my window switches - when it plays up either the passenger side front or rear windows refuses to go down from either their own or the drivers door switches. I've learned that mine will start working again with a few firm prods on the drivers door switches. Fortunately, they've never refused to close.

[munkymanmatt]

Oddly enough my dad's old renault espace used to do the exact same thing! What is it that makes french electronics the way they are??

EDIT on an unrelated note I've read on peugeotcentral http://www.peugeotcentral.co.uk/ftopic- ... &&start=10 that the crank sensor on the gearbox may be causing the rev counter to drop to 0 while engine braking. I'll take a peek tomorrow if I get her jacked up but not sure where I'll find this thing!

[steve_earwig]

Went through the fuses relevant to mirrors and windows, all seemed to be good, bar something I found in the main fuse panel beside the battery. This 25amp fuse was disconnected and you can see there are two connectors without fuses. No idea what these are as the guide to the fuses that I found doesn't mention them.

Err, they're relays?

I found a much smaller fuse box next to it and right next to the battery, I'm guessing these are MF5-MF8 (no marking bar the letters e,f,g,h). The fuse guide thing says the 50 amp should be in MF8 and is to do with the ABS, but I'd have though it would be at either end of this box not one of the middle fuses (I have removed a third 40amp fuse to show the letter markings).

I've had this diagram (which I scummed off of one of the French Pug forums) floating about for a few years, I've never found much of a use for it but looking at it now I think I might be able to shed some light on your confusion:

Ffs, which idiot wired this up? (Btw is your pic upside-down?)
Here's the other half, on the off chance it's useful:

The courtesy lights not working without the ignition primed is seriously annoying me and I can't think of how I could sort this if it's not a leak from above thats caused the problem, would it be easy to figure out the circuitry for that function or am I better off leaving that to a mechanic?

Must be worth a look