1) Disconnect the rubber hose leading from the air filter box to the large black metal pipe at the end of the engine bay where it meets the black pipe. You'll have to undo the jubilee clip and wiggle it lots.
2) Pull the air filter box out. There's a clip at the front holding it on, otherwise you can just rock it up and out
3) Remove the bracket that holds the air filter box. There's 3x 8mm screws.
4) Unclip the clutch fluid pipe, and remove the zip tie holding it to a (i think) brake pipe
5) Unclip the clutch fluid reservoir by sliding it sidewards
6) Unscrew the plastic shield that runs across the back of the engine bay (the bit of plastic the clutch fluid reservoir clips onto). There's about 6 torx screws holding it on. You'll see the master cylinder sitting there by the fluid reservoir
7) Turn the slave cylinder about 45 degrees anti-clockwise to remove it. The tricky part here is you need to push it in at the same time, which requires some levering. When it won't turn any more you can wiggle it out
Detach the master cylinder piston from the clutch pedal. Haynes says to remove the lower fascia but this isn't necessary. Just lever out the 3 studs holding the soundproofing to the fascia and reach up. When you come to the master cylinder piston, just pull it apart - it comes off worryingly easy.9) Unclip the clutch pipe from the clips on the bulkhead. It should be the bottom one, but you can follow it from the cylinder to check
10) Now it's time for the master cylinder. This has to be turned 45 degrees clockwise. You can see an arrow on the right hand side of the base, and a couple of painted white spots on the bulkhead. These tell you how far to turn. Handy eh? The easiest way to tackle this is with a large spanner on the square section. Put a large bar through the other end of the spanner and turn. Beware of the screw sticking out of the bulkhead near the end of the turning.
11) Pull the master cylinder out and remove the assembly.
12) Refitting is the reverse of removal
It's easy when you know how!
