The injectors operate at 80 Volts - this is the only information I can share
Makes sense what you're saying Fly - I always likened the noise to pinking myself and a leaky injector would be the cause of this unwanted occurance (performance will be down too).
Trouble with all this is - just about every single HDi out there seems to make this noise
Hurry to the scrappies, whilst stocks last
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
Finally, someone that's actually interested. Well done for finding him young maan so, it looks as though the cause was right, just the reason for it was wrong.
I was meant to be going to talk to a Bosch specialist this week some time but I don't think I'll bother now.
yah....I seem to have taken the long way round but im happy its 100% the fault of one injector, but I needed to know exactly what was going on and why.
Also learned that the number in the little box is the injector class number, 1 to 4 - which refers to the injectors "squirtyness" (like that word? lol) or rather denotes the stroke CC's from a bosch table at pressure X. The ecu needs to have the same class of injector so it knows how much fuel it is squirting in for each pulse. i.e. an 044 and 062 would both work if they are both class 2 if you were desperate, but be slightly different spray pattern or some other tiny manufacturing difference, as Bosch are anal about having a unique part no for any difference no matter how small, even if its just to denote that it is fitted to a different car even if its the same exact part under the skin.
ah France yeah....it seems these injectors are readily available and much cheaper in the land of wee-wee than here, so I'll try and source a supplier tonight and post the results ;)
Ah, yes....pug UK want just under £300 each....**cough cough**
Ebay, from £20 - £45 plus, and no guarantee they are good, as no breaker can test them...my best advice is a scrappy hunt for a cheap set and swap one new one for one old one, cycle all 4 scrappy ones thru the same position until it runs quiet under load. If no change, do the next one etc...
No special conditions for replacing them, just use new copper washers when refitting. If its been running then wait 30 secs after each switch-off till the rail pressure dies away to zero before cracking the fuel couplings open.
and never ever run the engine unless ALL the steel fuel connections are tight again - 24,000 psi leaks can severly injure or blind you. Or worse.
The fuel parts on the system are forged steel to withstand the enormous pressures involved. Your body is mush against such tremendous forces as this badboy can muster, even at idle its around 3000 psi at the injector feed pipes.
When Ford use the pug HDi system (on the TDCi...) they tune each injector to the ecu so they need recoded or it will not run, pug dont do this.
Hi, i have been reading this thread as i too was having similar noise symptons on my Relay van 2.0hdi. I have just recently repaired it after cambelt failure. (see other thread)
Anyhow at 2500 rpm i was getting a right clatter from the engine bay. It would start then abruptly stop and then as the revs came back down past 2500 you got a zip type noise.
Turned out it was one of the alternator shield brackets that had broken. Now cable tied in place and no more noise.