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Guys over the last 1000 miles my clutch pedal (2.1 td 1998) seems to be getting 'weaker'

THE CLUTCH IS NOT SLIPPING

When i press the pedal there is no resistance for the first couple of inches of travel, then it feels normal.

When i let go of the pedal it comes back quickly to the beginning of the resistance then slowly creeps back up to the top where it stays.

This slow return has got worse and now probably takes 3 seconds to return from the bottom to the top.

I think that the travel distance where i have no resistance is getting a little bigger now too.

I dont have problems changing gear etc etc but i cant help thinking im going to have too much slack travel one day!

Any ideas on what needs sorting?
Cable or clutch?

Any funny noises from the engine bay? This happened to me recently when the thrust bearing went on mine. You can also check the hydraulics between the pedal and clutch for leaks. It is a sealed system which you can't top up (with that in mind I would top it up anyway, whilst waiting for a replacement in the post).

Its hydraulic?

Where is the reservoir for topping up?

No odd noises from the engine bay, especially nothing that changes in frequency/volume when the clutch pedal is pressed or released.

As you look at the engine bay, it's on the back at the left. It's not supposed to be opened, but I'd try filling it.

Hi Locoboy according to the Haynes manual the clutch hydraulics are a sealed unit on the 2.1 diesels it says it cannot be opened and the fluid does not require topping up I have never had a diesel so dont know if the reservoir can be opened or not

2.1TD you'll want to acquire a new hydraulic system. £150 I think from the dealers, or you might find one from a scrappy. Easy to fit. The D8 TDs and the 2.0 petrol turbo have the same part, but the V6 one is different. D9s have a completely different system.

Thanks for the advice guys.
I have managed to source a second hand item so i will report back after fitting.

good man! Try not to be too rough getting the slave cylinder in the gearbox. I know it'll need a lot of force, but I've discovered the D9 slaves are ridiculously fragile. The D8 ones are sturdier, but try to put even pressure on it when pushing in

What bit breaks on it then? Im not even sure how it comes out yet so i hope i'm not learning my my mistakes!

There's a few places they break, but if memory serves the D8 one does have a lot tougher and thicker plastic body

i think its going to be 2 of us fitting the same parts this month!

Have you got a clutch m/c, pipe and slave yet to fit to yours?

I know where there is another one if you need it, i can get a price for it if your interested.
thanks

Guys my secondhand sealed clutch mc, pipe, and slave cylinder has arrived and it has fluid staining on the outide of the reservoir, there does not appear to be any fulid in the box that it came in but do you think its worth spending the time fitting?

I checked mine last night and the reservoir is bone dry, im not sure if a new one is supposed to actually have fluid in the reservoir or if its just an expansion vessel to allow it to 'breathe'???? any ideas?

If i'n going to fit it to the car to try it out can anyone let me know how i remove the MC from the pedal box?

If my replacement item is no good then i might have a bit of a fight on myhands as the guy i bought it from was breaking a car on ebay and i paypalled him £50 for it outside of ebay,

Watch this space!

The reservoir should be full of fluid.

To remove the master cylinder, there's a small ball joint at the top of the clutch pedal you need to separate. Then it's just a case of pushing in the cylinder from the engine bay and rotating anticlockwise about 45 degrees after having unclipped the reservoir.

So is it worth me flipping the top off my newly arrived part and checking for any fluid in the reservoir before i fit it? Even though it explicitly says not to remove the lid?