This isn't a question I am afraid, just a big moan!!
I spent all yesterday trying to replace the lower engine mount on my 1.8 99 406! I welded a steel cage together and used threaded rod to push it out. Would it shift!? No!! It ended up bending the 12mm lump of steel I had used to build the tool out of!!
Looks like I may have to take a trip to the stealers and get them to replace it. I hate being beaten by a machine!!!
I have done this job in situe like you. It is a lot like world peace, very hard to achieve but definatley worth a try!
To get the old ,ount out : remove the elastomer by gutting it away and then hacksaw 2 groves 180 degrees apart in the aluminium bush casing. Colapse the bush casing by driving a chisel up the groove.
To fit the new bush - cheat. I used a pedestal grinder to machine a taper on one end of the bush. I then gave it a quick run over the outer circumference of the aluminium bush casing to make it an easier fit in the mount frame.
I then lay under the car with my home made bush puller, shouting, swearing and drawing blood out of each one of my knuckles in turn. After 2.8 years, the mount was fitted - hey presto. Technically it can be done, but trust the haynes manual when it suggests removing the mount complete from the car to do the job.
diesel.weasel wrote:I have done this job in situe like you. It is a lot like world peace, very hard to achieve but definatley worth a try!
To get the old ,ount out : remove the elastomer by gutting it away and then hacksaw 2 groves 180 degrees apart in the aluminium bush casing. Colapse the bush casing by driving a chisel up the groove.
To fit the new bush - cheat. I used a pedestal grinder to machine a taper on one end of the bush. I then gave it a quick run over the outer circumference of the aluminium bush casing to make it an easier fit in the mount frame.
I then lay under the car with my home made bush puller, shouting, swearing and drawing blood out of each one of my knuckles in turn. After 2.8 years, the mount was fitted - hey presto. Technically it can be done, but trust the haynes manual when it suggests removing the mount complete from the car to do the job.
Good luck
DW
Cheers for. That, that sounds like a plan, although I am skeptical about hacking the old mount to bits in case I cant get the innards out or the new one in and be stuck with it broke!! I might have to spend a long weekend on it in the near future.
Will just have to put up with the bumping and grumbling for a few more weeks.
Hah! Me and my mate spent about 3 hours hitting the damn thing with a sledgehammer to get it in, after destroying the old one of course. Not quite the right way to do it (ok, quite a bit of the 'old crazy) but it worked:)
I think I'll just stick with my old, torn, sorry looking lower mount - it's still doing a marvelous job of prevening the engine from flying out underneath
Can anyone actually report anything good from replacing these mounts? obviously there should be less engine rocking so up/down changes of the gears should be smoother and maybe less engie noise/vibration
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
I had serious trouble with the lower mount on a 306.
In the end i removed the driveshaft.
Unbolted the metal bracket of the mount from the back of the engine (its also mounted on 2 or 3 dowels)
took it to my mechanic and he used the hydraulic press to punch out the old mount, then press in the new one.
It took him no more than 10mins and he charged nothing
the hydraulic punch is a large tool for pressing out and in new wheel bearing etc.
