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Hello everyone, I have a question. I have a problem with my ignition sticking when I turn the key to the on position. I have tried WD40 in it but no luck. I think my only option is a new ignition lock which seems to be expensive and has problems with the keys coding. Can anyone tell me if a sticking ignition would be an MOT problem???

Define 'ignition sticking' - Does your starter motor remain engadged once you've turned the key? - that may be a starter fault rather than ignition barrel.

As for coding, Im sure someone will correct me, but I think the keys are coded to the ECU, rather than the barrel??

No, the starter motor is fine. When I put the key in I turn in to the 'on' position wait for the coils then turn to ignition. The key usually springs back to on after you turn it. In my case it doesn't it stays and I have to twist it back to 'on' manually. My question is would this fail an MOT for this. I cannot see it on a criteria to be marked against.

i very much doubt that a sticky key would be a MOT failure, unless it was likely to endanger other road users or your self and passengers.

When you take it for a MOT, just warn them that they have to turn the key back one step to the "On" position.

When i took my Xantia for its MOT, if you didn't wait for a "click" noise from under the bonnet once the Glowplug light had gone out, it would refuse to start regardless. they didn't fail me on it and i didn't get anything on a sheet of paper after that said i needed it looked.

richyb83 wrote:I think my only option is a new ignition lock which seems to be expensive and has problems with the keys coding.

I don't think you'd have problems with key coding, AFAIK the transponder coil is separate so if you keep your original remote and the tiny transponder chip inside it should all be ok. The only problem is having two keys. Presumably the return spring's broken, in the past I've stripped locks and swapped parts but I'm not sure if it's possible on these ones. Anyone?

two things here
1.the sticking key will not fail an MOT
2.if the key turns OK you can change just the barrel by removing the cowl and the turn the key then on the barrel push in the pin and the barrel should come out on its own but you will need to recode the new key

Deano, when you say the key would need recoding do you mean through peugeot or can it be done via the ways mentioned on this forum? I dunno if this is relevant but I have just one key. Thanks for the help so far.

Will one of you nice young men help a poor, confused old man?

I like to follow these threads as maybe one day the knowledge may come in useful but I seem to be having a bad time with this one.

Firstly, it sounds to me like the return spring's broken. Is this return spring in the barrel or the lock? It just seems to me that if the barrel's changed but not the lock then maybe it won't cure the problem and what Ricky really needs to do is fix the spring or change the whole lock.

Secondly, one of these new fangled keys seems to be comprised of 4 parts - the key blade, the remote control for the central locking thingumy, the transponder chip for the immobiliser wotsit and the case. Surely, if you change the barrel you only need change the blade, the rest could stay the same, and I'd have thought the car electrickery wouldn't be interested because it's just a piece of metal. Or does the ECU actually know what the blade looks like?

Must go now 'cos it's time for my nap.