406oc.co.uk

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 1:03 am**

Hi all.

My car need a clutch change really desperately. So, I would like to do this myself, but I'm not sure wether this is a good idea, or not. I have done tough jobs before, so I need to know more info before attempting this one.

It's phase 1 406, 1.8 16v.

I'd be very thankfull if you could give me any adivse and anser any questions you can below...

- In general, are there any special difficulties and drawback in changing the clutch on this car?
- Does subframe need to be dropped in order to take gearbox down?
- Any difficulties on getting gearbox back on the shaft/centering the clutch etc.?
- Is this a push or pull type clutch?
- Any SPECIAL tools required?

Any other advise is always very welcomed.

Thanks!

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 3:52 pm**

So, nobody ever changed clutch on a 406?

well...

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 4:06 pm**

I haven't

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 4:29 pm**

same here but am sure there's a thread somewhere on here of someone
who has...

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:08 pm**

i did it and what a bloody arse it was, there are two types of clutch on the phase one or as we like to call it the D8, theres the conventional push clutch, or the annoying 'backwards' pull clutch, this was only fitted to the 2.0 16v, 1.9td 3.0 v6 and 2.0 turbo, the 1.6 8v and 1.8 16v have a conventional clutch, it took me a day to do mine with a friend and my dad, but as mine was the 2.0 16v, it was alot harder, essentially the whole job is the same as its the same XU block, only removal and reffiting the gearbox is hard on the backwards clutch
your only main issues will be removing the driveshafts and lifting the gearbox back in, its one heavy bugga

the problems getting the driveshafts out is the fact they often seize in the hub and can be a nightmare to get out, and also undoing the 11mm offset-head bolts in the engine mounting that supports the driveshaft intermediate bearing, once that is done getting the drivshaft out that side is not easy without damage to the driveshaft
if you follow the haynes manual you shouldnt have any problems
oh yeah also change the driveshaft seals, and the plastic bushes that support the clutch fork

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:58 pm**

jameslxdt wrote:i did it and what a bloody arse it was, there are two types of clutch on the phase one or as we like to call it the D8, theres the conventional push clutch, or the annoying 'backwards' pull clutch, this was only fitted to the 2.0 16v, 1.9td 3.0 v6 and 2.0 turbo, the 1.6 8v and 1.8 16v have a conventional clutch, it took me a day to do mine with a friend and my dad, but as mine was the 2.0 16v, it was alot harder, essentially the whole job is the same as its the same XU block, only removal and reffiting the gearbox is hard on the backwards clutch
your only main issues will be removing the driveshafts and lifting the gearbox back in, its one heavy bugga
the problems getting the driveshafts out is the fact they often seize in the hub and can be a nightmare to get out, and also undoing the 11mm offset-head bolts in the engine mounting that supports the driveshaft intermediate bearing, once that is done getting the drivshaft out that side is not easy without damage to the driveshaft
if you follow the haynes manual you shouldnt have any problems
oh yeah also change the driveshaft seals, and the plastic bushes that support the clutch fork

Thanks!!

Will I have to drop the subframe to get the gearbox down?

And not sure what you mean by "plastic bushes that support the clutch fork ". Maybe the bushes out side, ones on linkages? I
hope it's nothing to do with fork inside the gearbox.

thanks

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:05 pm**

Add:

Does driver's side wisbone etc. have to be removed for driveshaft to get out. Or is it possible to pull the gearbox off and get the driveshaft out at the same time?

thx

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:15 pm**

Hi james,

plastic bushes that support the clutch fork

Is this the same for the HDi's? if so is there an actual name for these? so i can order them before starting mine : -

So Far i have: -

1) The clutch Kit
2) L/R Drive Shaft Seals
3) Clutch sleeve
4) DMF if it needs it (found the original one for £200)

James apart from the plastic bushes that support the clutch fork (what ever they are called is there anything else worth getting, that maybe broken trying to get the old clutch off or that may have worn and may as well replace?

Thansk,

Andy

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:40 pm**

xplosiv: you will need 2 litres of total 75W80 gear oil and as long as the clutch kit includes the release bearing, there wont be anything else you will need

descanso: the subframe is mounted at the rear of the engine compartment so you wont have to lower it, as its nowhere near the gearbox

the bushes i am talking about are what the clutch fork rotates on inside the gearbox, once you get the gearbox out you will see, they're not that hard to change, i also forgot to mention you will almost certainly break the gear link selector rods getting them off, there are 3 three in total so buy these aswell, to get the driveshafts out of the hub, i first unbolted the brake caliper and hang this out the way, then unplugged the brake pad wear warning wiring and removed the abs sensor, then i unbolted the driveshaft hub nut, its a 36mm i think, then i unbolted the shock from the hub, its a 13mm (i think) nyloc nut so you will need 2 new nuts two, not critical but you should replace them, then using a large hammer i wacked the hub down untill the shock was almost clear, i then unbolt the top nuts holding the shock and removed the shock, then you can pull the driveshaft out of the hub, unless its seized in

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:45 pm**

I didn't know you were supposed to remove driveshaft from the hub??? I saw my mate remove the gearbox on 2.0 sri turbo, and he just took the driveshaft out of gearbox and moved it to a side.

I'm gonna have to buy Haynes Manual!

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:49 pm**

if its seized in the hub, then it is easier to take the hub off with the driveshaft attached, but i its not seized in then it saves a lot of time removing it from the hub

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:52 pm**

jameslxdt wrote:if its seized in the hub, then it is easier to take the hub off with the driveshaft attached, but i its not seized in then it saves a lot of time removing it from the hub

What I meant was, he takes the driveshaft out from the gearbox and leaving it in the hub, without removing suspension or anything.

He removes the wishbones so he cam move the hub and suspension around.

do you get me?

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:36 pm**

yeah i get what you mean, but that would make moving the gearbox arround quite akward especially when trying to get it back in and lined up

406oc.co.uk

changing clutch on 1.8 16v

changing clutch on 1.8 16v