406oc.co.uk

Hi i have a couple on a53 plate 2003 just lost the avitive tank just got the car the po was having probs with the dpf and fapp
I did a regeneration well part it failed check codes read no fluid I've only driven it a mile for an mot been on friday off the road for 4 years got sum fluid today jacked it up to see no tank pipes riped and plug gone .
Do i delete it or try to fix it there is 3 pipes what do they do?
I have a p2000 can't get it to work also got a programmer.
Taz

Just to say please bear with me i have dyslexia so it mite not be spelled right
Taz

Hello! I wouldn't worry about the dyslexia, you're perfectly understandable.

Umm, 3 pipes? Not really sure, maybe to and from the pump and return. I think the tank being ripped off by road debris is quite common on these, the fitment is a bit of an afterthought.

Repair or delete? I'd suspect the DPF itself is probably blocked by now so it'd probably be cheaper to delete it, however I'm not sure about the legal thing, having no tank is a bit of a give away. Perhaps those closer to you will be able to advise on that.

Considering the age of the 406 and how few of them ever had a dpf to start with, I would be surprised if an MOT tester noticed. The emissions test it has to pass is the same as any other older diesel so won't be a problem. Removing the internals of the filter is undetectable without stripping down the exhaust. I could tell from the diagnostic data whether it was working or not, but very few people would be sufficiently interested to bother trying.

Some old fool posted this once upon I time:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12487

As far as I remember there was a single rubber boot affair enclosing all the connections to the additive tank. It definitely had a pipe to the injector on the fuel tank and the electrical connections for pump and level sensor. Can't remember how it was refilled - that might have involved an additional pipe. (I've never tried to top one up).

PM me if you need any further info

Hi orderd sum softwere so dealing with ather problems with it .found if i drive it gently it stays out of limp today drama was th alarm going off on opening the driver's door at the shops had to disconnect the battery to stop it the new one i fitted yesterday ,as the one that had been flat for 4 years would not hold a charge .did oil and filter and diesel filter and housing to stop the leak on removel of the air filter a mouse left in a hurry leaving his nest arrr!! ni the bin with thatToday fond it has a 16inch spare and 15 on the car .i think i have got my p2000 working now when the softwere comes we will see what next
Taz

Sounds like you're getting there.

Limp mode triggered during firm acceleration is usually a sign of transient overboost caused by vacuum leak(s). The variable nozzle turbo is vacuum operated and will fail to stop the boost pressure exceeding the fault level if there's not enough vacuum to shut it down quickly.

Common sources of leaks include splits in the rubber sleeves connecting vacuum pipes to solenoids etc, leaks in the swirl flap and/or air doser actuators and occasionally the small vacuum reservoir beside the servo. If you find a leak, be aware there are probably others.

The tee pieces used where the smaller vacuum pipes branch off the main pipe from vacuum pump to servo have restrictors to limit possible downstream leakage and ensure enough vacuum for the servo. These can block giving similar behaviour to a leak in that branch.

Diagram in this link: viewtopic.php?t=21527

The 2.2 Hdi has 5 electrovalves controlling vacuum operated devices, (egr valve, turbo, air dosers, swirl flaps, intercooler bypass), but the turbo is the only one essential for the engine to run, so you can temporarily disconnect and plug pipes while tracing leaks.

Good luck, keep us posted on how you get on.

Going to spend my time for now on vac system

You can buy enough silicon pipe ( 3mm internal diameter ) on eBay for about £5

Your car will run fine with the DPF cannister emptied - you can get a remap at a later date from a member here or posting the ECU off to a specialist that'll do it.

Apologies for not replying to your PM, it's been a busy time in the Magic household, however I had to delete my copies of the remap files as they were corrupted

If you want to swap the EGR and the turbo solenoids around then it's a good way to test to see if they are working. ( You can just swap the connector and vac pipes while they are still bolted to the bulkhead )

Good luck.

Had a look today as usual the diafram on swirl dose no hold vac and the evon the back of air filter wrong way rond
Do i have t replace swerl actuator or set it and leave?

If your swirl is not holding vacuum, then you can just block the vac pipe that goes into it - this will stop it from leaking and reducing the vacuum needed for the rest of the system....

You can replace it at a later date if you want to, I think myself and Doggy ( plus many other members ) just kept ours blanked with no real issues.

All seems ok for now
Taz

Well done.