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A few weeks ago the crank oil seal at the cambelt side started leaking oil. I replaced it with a new one. I also replaced the belt pulley because the belt was "chirping" (?) a bit (just after engine start, when releasing the clutch to start rolling). All was fine, no more leaks. Until yesterday, when there was again a puddle of oil on the ground

Should i apply liquid gasket on the new seal before fitting it? When fitting it, i (accidentally) pushed it a bit more into the engine block than the old seal had been. The old seal was flush with the oil pump cover, the new seal was 2 mm into it. Maybe that was the problem?

Anyone with experience in replacing the oil seal? Any advice?

When you take the old oil seal out check that the crank does not have a groove worn into it where the lip of the seal has been seated...this will cause an oil leak...If it has a groove, fit the seal so that it has a good surface to seal on.

Check that the seal didn't get damaged when it was fitted originally.
When you fit the new seal fit masking tape over the end of the crank and smear a little grease onto it to help with fitting the seal.
Fit the seal where it originally fitted if there isn't a groove worn into the crank.

Lastly, check that the engine breathing system is doing its job, a blocked PCV valve or breather will create pressure in the engine breathing system and allow oil to be blown out of the seal.

Thanks Jasper (again ) for the good advice.

I did have a good look at the crank when i refitted the new seal a few weeks ago, and it seemed to me there was no groove.

What is the masking tape for? Is it to prevent a groove from being created as the seal is fitted on?

I will certainly check the PCV.

jasper5 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:59 am Lastly, check that the engine breathing system is doing its job, a blocked PCV valve or breather will create pressure in the engine breathing system and allow oil to be blown out of the seal.

I guess this is done by removing the oil filler cap and keeping it closed with one hand, check with engine running if lots of pressure builds up. Correct?

If there is no pressure building up then i think the only thing to check is blockage of this tube?

And another question (if i may ): Hayes says "Dip the new oil seal in clean engine oil". Which I did. But i read on other forums that a new seal must be pushed on dry. Is that true?

I also read at some place to "apply a small amount of silicone sealer to the outer rim of the seal." Really? I can't imagine, but if it helps...

You can leave the oil cap on with the engine running and then remove it after a while....any release of pressure will indicate a blockage.

Check number 1 and number 2.
The masking tape is to protect the lip on the seal from damage as the seal is fitted...you can also use a tube of some sort fitted over the crank which the new seal can slide over the crank as it is fitted.
Never fit an oil seal dry, the lip on the seal needs oil or silicone grease to help it slide into position without damage and to seal around the crank nicely.
The correct tool is a plastic tube that fits over the crank to which you attach the new seal.
You can smear a little sealant around the outside of the seal if you wish but only a tiny bit in case it gets in the oil.

Will do. Thanks for the help!

Fixed (for now...) Turned out that i had pushed the seal too far inwards, causing it to be able to wobble and thus leak. My bad .

I'm getting better and better at this. Third time having the cambelt off in short time, getting the hang of it

PCV was perfect. All pipes were clear, no (or hardly noticable) air pressure buildup under the oil filler cap. Looks like the block is still quite healthy for its mileage.