406oc.co.uk

HI Username Removed

Thanks for your clear pictures!

Did you actually remove the intake manifold from the engine block in order to clean it? Or did you leave it in place?

How did you clean it, which tools did you need? On the TerraClean web site I found these:

http://www.terraclean.net/product.php?id=56
http://terraclean.net/product.php?id=57

Is that what you used?

My DW10ATED is producing quite some smoke during accelerating. I think this might be due to clogging of the air intake. I want to clean up everything as you did, just need to know the steps involved.

I am wondering why the motor management allows for smoke. The inlet air flow is metered, and also the turbo boost pressure is measured (isn't it?). So the ECU can measure the amount of inflowing air and adjust the fuel injection quantity accordingly, in such a way that no smoke should be produced. But apparently the ECU does not do this. Or does it?

Cheers!

Thanks Ben, very useful information. I think my problem is the same as yours. If I press the accelerator very gently, and give it a few seconds to get used to the idea we're going to speed up, then no smoke, even if in the end the pedal is to the metal. But if I stamp on it ... big clouds of smoke .

Apart from visual check, is there any "do it yourself" way to check for leaks in the air intake system? Like putting the system under pressure, with the engine off (silent) to hear if air leaks out somewhere. Or put a smoke generator in front of the air inlet, rev up the engine, and check if the smoke comes out somewhere. Maybe ask a local junkie to roll a big joint and puff it in front of the air inlet .

I think anyway that the time is right to blank off the EGR valve, as you did. I already have a set of blanking plates. Did you have to update the ECU software for that? I think mine will need to be tweaked. I have an MPPS cable and was able to read the flash of the ECU into my laptop.

I cannot find any companies that offer TerraClean here in the Netherlands. I found a nearby company that offers cleaning with "MotorVac DieselTune"; that seems to be a close alternative. Does anyone have experience with that?

Maybe ask a local junkie to roll a big joint and puff it in front of the air inlet .

Haha turns out that I was not the first one to think of this. Some-one created a "robot" version of a super junkie, in the form of a jar with three smoking joints in it, LOL:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BITZ-MsPRzM

Another one here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMok2y05jNE

A lot cheaper than this: http://redlinedetection.com/products/hd-powersmoke

I would also replace the MAF sensor

Thanks I will do that.

Is it an idea to just disconnect the electric plug that goes into the solenoid on the bulkhead? That should keep the EGR valve closed, wouldn't it?

Not as a long-term solution, but just to see if the smoke is gone.

My 406 has an "air doser" (there are 3 solenoids on the bulkhead), I guess it would be a good idea to disconnect also the solenoid that operates the air doser?

Hi, you need to keep the connectors plugged in to keep the ECU happy, but you can remove the rubber pipe from the solenoids ( EGR and Doser - its the pipe nearest the bulkhead... ) and blank the open pipe with a screw.

Hi, you need to keep the connectors plugged in to keep the ECU happy, but you can remove the rubber pipe from the solenoids ( EGR and Doser - its the pipe nearest the bulkhead... ) and blank the open pipe with a screw.

Thanks!

GingerMagic wrote:Hi, you need to keep the connectors plugged in to keep the ECU happy, but you can remove the rubber pipe from the solenoids ( EGR and Doser - its the pipe nearest the bulkhead... ) and blank the open pipe with a screw.

Done. See pictures:


Blocked tube to EGR value.


Blocked tube to air doser.

Result: smoke is gone!! Well, for 95%.

Immediately noticed the engine is running smoother, more quiet. Noticed directly that the idling has gone up slightly (~875 rpm), but only when coasting and engine in free running. When stopped (no longer rolling) it returns back to its normal ~825 rpm.

It is also picking up more swiftly. Makes it possible again to tailgate behind that big fat Porsche Cayenne at 160km/h at an affordable fuel consumption thanks to the slipstream .

The smoke during acceleration is gone! I only noticed a short puff when putting the accelerator all the way down for the first time after the engine had completely warmed up. Maybe some old stuff still caught up in the exhaust.

No engine malfunction lights, no message on LCD display (yet, after 200 km).

I will still check for air inlet leaks, visually, when I do my pre-MOT checkup at the local "do-it-yourself" garage. I will pay special attention to the rubber pressure pipe underneath, leading to the intercooler. And I will check and clean the MAF.

Hope this leads to easier passing MOT than last year, when I had to drive the motorway in third gear for half an hour to blow out all the soot .

Good effort there! Now is the time to change that way overdue fuel filter, and you may as well do the oil and air filter while you're at it. With no EGR you'll also notice MUCH cleaner oil for far longer too, which can only be a good thing.

Yeah, you may be right. MOT is due end december, might as well combine my pre-MOT checkup with a good cleanup/maintenance. The air filter is a K&N filter (also in for now at least 70.000 miles, plus the miles it was used in my previous 406 saloon), not sure whether to clean it or to replace it. Oil is now 21000 miles, very black (but it was already black again after the drive home from the oil change).

frog wrote:The air filter is a K&N filter (also in for now at least 70.000 miles, plus the miles it was used in my previous 406 saloon), not sure whether to clean it or to replace it.

http://www.efkaimport.nl/Subpaginas/9/L ... _Olie.html says:

"Hoe vaak moet het K&N filter worden gereinigd?
[...] Het kan zijn dat een filter bij rally-cross om de 150 km schoongemaakt moet worden en bij een personenauto pas na 200.000 km. Op z’n laatst dient een K&N filter schoongemaakt te worden als er een vuillaag van 2-3 mm ontstaan is."

In English:

"How often should the K & N filter be cleaned ?
[...] It may be that in rally -cross a filter must be cleaned at 150 km [100 mi] and in a passenger car not until after 200,000 km [125.000 mi]. At the latest a K & N filter should be cleaned if there is a dirt layer of 2-3 mm."

125.000 miles... wow

Username Removed wrote:Without trying to sound rude here, you clearly don't respect your car much if you're running the same oil after 21k - that really is appalling. Get the oil changed right now and sort out your maintenance schedule, I know these cars are hard to hurt but come on you have to make some effort...

Haha no problem, I am caring very much about my car. I wash it very often and I'm the one in our neighborhood who is the most often vacuum cleaning the interior (very necessary with 4 kids ).

Last oil change was after 40.000 mi. It's not that I don't want to change it, it's just that I think it doesn't really matter. There was a lot of discussion a few years ago on TV here about whether or not it is necessary to change oil as often as is currently done. A consumer show interviewed a guy who hadn't changed oil for 200.000 km (125.000 mi) and was still rolling happily.

Found on http://dnr.louisiana.gov/assets/TAD/edu ... el/a/a.htm :

"Present fleet tests of 90,000 mile drain intervals have found the oil free and clean of deposits and suitable for continued use."

Would you be open to the (faint) possibility that changing oil might, just might, be possible at much longer intervals? I am, and I am willing to take the risks that might be involved.

Not bothered about sludge then?.

Ithink u will find the engine will sludge up..

lozz wrote:Not bothered about sludge then?.

Ithink u will find the engine will sludge up..

I'd be more bothered about how diesels tend to thin the oil the older it gets.
My step dad was very proud of the fact that he had never changed the oil in his transit van until the engine blew
All those saved oil changes didn't pay for the replacement engine

dirtydirtydiesel wrote:I'd be more bothered about how diesels tend to thin the oil the older it gets.

Isn't that only for engines with DPF systems? I've read that during regeneration, diesel is injected during the exhaust phase, but it can end up (unburnt) in the sump when a regeneration cycle is interrupted during a short ride.

frog wrote:
Would you be open to the (faint) possibility that changing oil might, just might, be possible at much longer intervals? I am, and I am willing to take the risks that might be involved.

What a smartmouth, twattish response.

Username Removed wrote:No I certainly wouldn't be open to that possibility, as it has been proven time and time again to be absolute rubbish. Regular heat cycles combined with high pressures and constant friction inevitably will degrade the oil's lubricating properties over time, there is no question about it. There are many studies on the effects, go read a few and next time do some research before coming to an absolutely ridiculous unfounded conclusion.

Ok, that's fine. I did a lot of research into this area and I have concluded that (for me) an oil change interval of 60.000 km is good enough.

But it is kind of a religious discussion, so the best thing to say here is that everyone should decide for themselves what they feel most comfortable with.