406oc.co.uk

HI.

Since owner my 2.0 90 HDI Rapier, the clutch as had a tendency to sometimes stick to the floor. This hasn't bothered me as its never jumped and always gone into gear ok. Ive been using it like this for 6months now.

Monday I was reversing into a carpark when I depressed the clutch and car carried on moving until it hit the wall behind! Now I can hear that clearly the thrust bearing as died at least.

I leave the multi story (Didn't want pay charges for not moving car) gets out the car park, and then EML comes on and car dies. IT now wont start.

I am assuming the clutch has decided to split company with the rest and has taken out the crankshaft sensor? I've brought another car, so I am going to have a go at replacing myself, now I was advised to see if I need a flywheel, however all kits I see for the 90 show no fly wheel, is this the case?

Also Do I need to drop the subframe on the 90, or again is this just the 110? and once all this has been replaced, will I need PP2000 to reset ecu before it will start?

Thanks

Stu

#(car carried on moving until it hit the wall behind!)

^ inertia switch may be doing its job,


flywheel is solid on the 90s iirc.

You can usually get away with not dropping the subframe on the 90, but if you need to just drop it an inch or so.

I agree with lozz, check the inertia switch first.
The crank sensor shouldn't get taken out.

Don't seem to be a big red button on the diesel, and I drove out of the car park OK and onto the road for a while until it died. I have had it trip on my petty one before hitting a pothole!

I have had a release bearing fail, it destroyed the clutch fork and pressure plate, some of the shrapnel stuck to the magnetic crank sensor and caused it to run like a bag o spanners.

So which part of the gearbox is the sensor? and will the ecu need resetting? found someone who will collect and fit parts for £200 so going do that for that price.

-Stu

Sensor is top of bell housing near cylinder block, bit fiddly, I think 1 bolt holds it in

Very easy to do if doing clutch, I am not sure on ecu resetting, just cleaned all the shrapnel of mine and all ok

Get back today £200 labour plus £100 parts as needed a new mainsleeve on the gearbox as well. so not too bad.

stuartkeith wrote:Get back today £200 labour plus £100 parts as needed a new mainsleeve on the gearbox as well. so not too bad.

Good result What was the cause of the not starting?

I'm assuming it was the crankshaft sensor which most likley got taken out. I brought one just in case. so £60 clutch, £20 Sensor and £15 for sleeve

stuartkeith wrote:I'm assuming it was the crankshaft sensor which most likley got taken out. I brought one just in case. so £60 clutch, £20 Sensor and £15 for sleeve

Would have been useful to know for sure what caused the not starting.
I'm not convinced the sensor can be taken out by a failed release bearing.

Ill ask him. I've seen it happen, my skoda had same issue with not starting after changing the clutch. Mechanic didn't mesh it right and crushed the sensor. Replaced and all was well.

I didnt think the sensor stuck thru far enough to get broke, its inline with the ring gear and counts the teeth, but being magnetic filings and small pieces will stick to it which gives false readings of crank position

Well got it back clutch itself not too bad, plate bit smooth but bearing shagged. According to gf the sensor took a big wack from something can see. And the main shaft sleeve was in a bad state.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Found the sensor, and there was a big chunk taken out of it. So it deffo is possible for the clutch to take it out!