Oil pooling on right hand side of engine

[blinkinink]

If you take the engine cover off my 2.0 110 hdi, and look to the right hand side under the turbo hose from the intercooler in it, the whole area including the "valve" in the intercooler hose, is caked in oil residue and there is oil pooling in the little nooks on the top of the rocker cover.

What is this valve and the flap that is located inside the pipe? As upon investigation I found the rubber hose connector for the vacuum pipe to this to be very loose. Not enough to get a good seal I imagine.

I can only assume that it has something to do with release of turbo pressure which is in turn releasing oily turbo pressured air, in the engine compartment, leaving enoigh of a residue to coat this area enough to make it look like its leaking.

Also, my performance in sketchy at best. Unpredictable even. Sometimes it pulls great from 1800rpms, other times theres nothing above 2000rpm at all, no boost feeling whatsoever.

My exhaust also sounds like its blowing all the time, but I cant find the blow for love nor money.
Sounds like it puffing at the manifold as I can hear it loudly when pulling off out the drivers window. Not really at all when on the go though.

Meh. This car is starting to annoy me.
I changed maf thinking it was this, but it appears its more complicated than this unfortunately. Not massively out of pocket as it was a quality used Siemens part for 25 quid.

Any help appreciated

[blinkinink]

Ok so the valve I was referring to is the air doser (Thanks service box).

Forgive my ignorance but I have no idea what that does. So im going away to research. Bye

[GingerMagic]

Air dosers do leak oil under pressure, normally all over the starter on some Hdis....

I believe the Hdi 110s made from 2003 don't have a doser, and use a pipe that bypasses it instead. Worth looking for one in a scrapyard to see it and maybe use it to bypass your doser.

[blinkinink]

Yup, that seems to be what ive found out. I would hope in some form at least that this and the egr can be removed/blanked and that I can simplify my vacuum tubing somewhat.

That in turn may increase my turbo spool up, or at least regulate it a little.

[dirtydirtydiesel]

[quote="blinkinink"]If you take the engine cover off my 2.0 110 hdi, and look to the right hand side under the turbo hose from the intercooler in it, the whole area including the "valve" in the intercooler hose, is caked in oil residue and there is oil pooling in the little nooks on the top of the rocker cover.

What is this valve and the flap that is located inside the pipe? As upon investigation I found the rubber hose connector for the vacuum pipe to this to be very loose. Not enough to get a good seal I imagine.

I can only assume that it has something to do with release of turbo pressure which is in turn releasing oily turbo pressured air, in the engine compartment, leaving enoigh of a residue to coat this area enough to make it look like its leaking.

Also, my performance in sketchy at best. Unpredictable even. Sometimes it pulls great from 1800rpms, other times theres nothing above 2000rpm at all, no boost feeling whatsoever.

My exhaust also sounds like its blowing all the time, but I cant find the blow for love nor money.
Sounds like it puffing at the manifold as I can hear it loudly when pulling off out the drivers window. Not really at all when on the go though.




Don't quote me on this, but I think that sounds like a fubar'd EGR valve. This is attached / connected to the inlet & exhaust manifold & if it is blocked / split will cause some of your running problems along with the blowing sound & the lack of performance until 3000rpm will probably be a bad MAF but it can also be a TPS , boost pressure sensor, faulty electro valve, split / leaking boost pipes or vacum pipes
Good luck with it though, once you get it sorted there great cars DDD.

[Uberderv]

I'm guessing at a sticky EGR valve (Power issues) I dont know if the 110 will log a fault but you could disconnect the EGR/Air Doser at there solenoids to test it. If it solves the problem you could replace the doser with this-



And blank the EGR here-

[blinkinink]

Thanks,
Whats the best way to test?

Is the air doser flap controlled by vacuum? And therefore closed at its resting position? Because that would be worse surely.

Im familiar with egr systems, so I dont mind messing there, but with that being linked to this doser (less familiar) I am unsure how to go about remedying without costing me the earth.

pug 406 110 hdi estate executive 2001 black/gunmetal (pre com2000)

located in Neath - South Wales

[Uberderv]

Yes the air doser is a valve but it's resting position is open -



I think if your testing the system you need to disable both parts, either by removing and blocking the vacuum line or disconnecting the plugs to the associated solenoid.

I assume it works like this- ECU requests EGR - Doser closes - EGR valve opens allowing exhaust into the intake. ECU normally starts to reduce EGR as the Rpm's rise, and disable it over a set Rpm. Problem is, will the ECU log a fault if you start to disable the system?

[GingerMagic]

If you disconnect the electrical connections you will get a fault code. If you block off the vacuum pipes then you will not get a fault but it will be recorded on the ECU.

[blinkinink]

Who knows. I'll have a look see.

1 of the 3 electrovalves on the bulkhead seems to have been repaired with putty of some sort. I would assume either cure a vacuum leak or because someone snapped off a hose connector.
Either way. Cant be good.

I'll probs look to blank off the egr, and then remove the electrovalve for that and for the doser.
I won't actually remove the doser until ive sourced a replacement pipe and hose fitment.

pug 406 110 hdi estate executive 2001 black/gunmetal (pre com2000)

located in Neath - South Wales

[blinkinink]

Just with regards to EGR blanking. Ive seen a few on ebays.

1 from poland, which comes with gaskets and fits at the top end of the air intake where the egr meets it.

Another says it goes under the egr valve itself onto the exhaust manifold.....

Which is best, does it really matter.....

Also, the one with the gaskets is also available without gaskets....are they a necessity?

pug 406 110 hdi estate executive 2001 black/gunmetal (pre com2000)

located in Neath - South Wales

[GingerMagic]

There may be a gasket already under the EGR, you can re-use it. The one for the inlet can be sealed with liquid gasket, I use Hylomar Red.

Blanking both ends ensures no gases can escape into the engine bay / cabin.

You need to keep all the EV's, just unplug the vacuum pipes.

[blinkinink]

Ok, so after some investigation.....

I've essentially disabled egr and doser systems by removing direct vacuum connections to these systems and making sure all vacuum tubing to turbo electrovalve was secure.

Car is boosting to 15 psi under full throttle according to my obd2 reader.
It does have a couple of intermittent flat spots where turbo just holds at a couple of psi, and I have to back off and re - accelerate so to speak to get it to spool.

Drives better on the whole though. Will blank the egr when I get the chance just to be clear. Then will remove all that excess tubing and blank it all directly at the valves.

What is the reason behind needing to keep the electrovalves? I can see they are electrically connected, so would they throw codes or something?

pug 406 110 hdi estate executive 2001 black/gunmetal (pre com2000)

located in Neath - South Wales

[GingerMagic]

If you unplug one and then start the engine then the EML come on - not sure why but I guess the ECU needs to know it is there, whether it is blanked or not.

[Uberderv]

You need to block the vacuum pipe once disconnected from the actuator etc... because the solenoid will still be opening/closing allowing the vac system to suck the atmosphere in.

EGR can be mapped out, if you want to go the whole hog.....