406oc.co.uk

is it a 110 or a 90 but i would still say its the maf i got one from the local factors that was faulty out of the box and i got 3 like it best to spend the moneys on a vdo or semans branded one as the will be better quoltey than an ebay special

Slack in the throttle cable?
A duff TPS should throw up 'engine anti-polution system defective'.

Otherwise, EGR? Boost regulator (if it's a 110)? (Both vac controlled.)

Sounds like you need to eliminate the TPS.

Have a read of this.... viewtopic.php?f=5&t=20449&p=203858&hilit=+tps#p203777

Have you got cruise control?

You can use this to ' accelerate ' thus eliminating the TPS...

I also don't really rate the LMF MAF sensor, try to find a know working genuine one to test on your car, either from a mate or from a member here or PeugeotForum.

Does the 110 have a MAP sensor too?

GingerMagic wrote: Does the 110 have a MAP sensor too?

110's have the same intercooler and MAP sensor as 2.2's.

where are you as if you are local to me i can give it a going over and see if i can fined any thing if you like

i am in sheffield south Yorkshire

Sounds like a communication error with the TPS to me, there was a modification years ago where the earth from the TPS was separated and ran on its own (I think it shares an earth with the MAF but used to give dodgy readings in some cases) also thoroughly check the condition of the wiring to these sensors as there may be an intermittent fault which only shows itself when you drive along (with the engine rocking around and yanking on the various wires etc).

If you get someone to rev the engine from idle, give it a good blip to 4000 rpm, hold your hand under the eggsauce tailpipe and you should get a massive blast of sooty-ish air, if it's irregular or sounds weird then maybe the eggsauce system is at fault; broken Catalyst, or detached sound-deadening material from inside the baffles. I once saw a car fart out a *massive* ball of mineral fibre from the tail pipe but when it first gets stuck in can block the flow of gases intermittently and cause poor performance.

that would be the air doser it closes and the egr opens to encourage egr gases to flow the fact it has oil around it nothing to be bothered about

thats the most intreging about having to let the turbo spool up then mat it and its fine have you tryed giving it an Italian tune up?

of the wast gate or the elector valve

for the wast gate you would need a vac pump

for the ev then you would need a diffrent ev best thing to do it to swap one of the 3 with the turbo ev and see if the fault moves

the central one is diffrent but that should have pipes with a blue tag fitted that go to the egr valve, the turbo is gray tags so swap the two at opposite ends as they have matching part numbers

When I was faffing about with the bulkhead electrovalves on mine the vac pipes were quite tight when trying to remove them and the back ones are dificult to get a decent grip on in situ. I unbolted 2 of them (might be even easier to access if you unbolt the mounting plate first, 2 *10mm nuts). Be careful not to lose the nuts as 1 of mine fell down the back of the engine bay never to be seen again, it took me ages to find one in the shed the same size and pitch!
Then to avoid getting confused I swapped the pipes and cables one at a time, this avoids having to label or remember anything as you only ever have 2 things disconnected at a time.... unpug connector A then connector B, swap over and plug in, then undo front pipe A and front pipe B...etc.....

This may appear to be a lesson in egg sucking for an elderly female relative to some but over the years I have often taken things apart and thought 'I know exactly where that goes, it's blindingly obvious' only to be called away in the middle of the job, go back later and think 'oh tits they both look identical'.
Labelling/colour coding helps if there are lots of things to undo but in this case just swapping like for like is the quickest and simplest option.

I would also suggest you get yourself some more vac pipe and swap the existing stuff while your at it, it's not expensive from your motor factors and it eliminates dodgy pipes from the list of possibilities. You only need to change the soft rubber stuff and not the hard plastic type stuff as this is the restrictor pipe (assuming it is similar to the 2.2). The pipe from the EV to the turbo requires either the car in the air to access the turbo end or someone with arms like Mr Tickle to reach down the back of the engine.

Thinking about this logically if the wastegate is stuck slightly open you would be unable to build boost but may feel some boost at higher RPM's purely due to the wastegate not leaking all the pressure as the turbo reached maximum RPM's.

Not sure how you'd get the best view but you need to inspect the actuator for alignment/damage and watch the actuator rod while someone revs the engine and check for smooth linear movement.

Of course while you're at it it wouldn't hurt to check the intercooler pipe for splits and ensure its seated properly on the turbo.

The turbo is buried down the back of the engine on the drivers side, if you look at the left hand electrovalve you'll see the actuator vac pipe, follow that and it will lead straight to the actuator.
Removing the plastic air pipe and the EGR gubbins should make it visible from above assuming the 2 litre layout is similar to my 2.2.

Don't forget you'll need some high temp liquid gasket when refitting the EGR if you end up removing it.

GingerMagic wrote:Have you got cruise control?

You can use this to ' accelerate ' thus eliminating the TPS...

I also don't really rate the LMF MAF sensor, try to find a know working genuine one to test on your car, either from a mate or from a member here or PeugeotForum.

Does the 110 have a MAP sensor too?

Ahem.......

Glad its all sorted.

Hey, no worries. I had a budget one on my 2.2Hdi which also showed no faults but was a bit lethargic. I fitted a Siemens MAF ( among other things at the same time ) which fixed it, but didn't know if the MAF was at fault or the other things I replaced.....