Cambelt Change HDi 90
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:19 pm
Hi all,
Just changed my cambelt today using EvilTwin's most excellent guide.
Used an FAI kit along with a Goodyear Gator Aux belt. Just took my time & it all went swimmingly. Just a couple of observations:
You really do need that 10mm ratchet spanner, the belt covers are difficult!
One of the first things I did was to make sure I could get the crank pulley bolt out. I used the starter motor cranking method to get it out. It was unbelievably tight all the way out.
On refitting it's meant to be torqued to 50nm + 60 deg. No way! I managed 10 deg no matter how I tried. My torque wrench only goes to 100nm and it was tighter than that. Anyway, I may recheck it soon for piece of mind. I thought later I should have marked the pulley to nut location up with some yellow paint so I could do an easy visual check.
I left the pulley off from then on & refiitted the RH roadwheel to use to rotate the crank for timing etc.. which was easy to do.
Removing the starter motor was easier after unbolting & easing the clutch slave down and was really needed to see what was going on with the timing.
I used Jasper5's tensioning method & also checked the tension using a borrowed frequency tester which measures the twang of the belt. The original belt was 30hz, the new one tensioned up as in the write up 36hz, a good result for the given method I feel.
I used an 8mm allen key with two opposite peaks ground down to make a squareish tensioner adjuster which worked really well (I can get odd allen keys free luckilly!)
All done at 97015 miles.
Many thanks to the contributors on this excellent forum.
Just changed my cambelt today using EvilTwin's most excellent guide.
Used an FAI kit along with a Goodyear Gator Aux belt. Just took my time & it all went swimmingly. Just a couple of observations:
You really do need that 10mm ratchet spanner, the belt covers are difficult!
One of the first things I did was to make sure I could get the crank pulley bolt out. I used the starter motor cranking method to get it out. It was unbelievably tight all the way out.
On refitting it's meant to be torqued to 50nm + 60 deg. No way! I managed 10 deg no matter how I tried. My torque wrench only goes to 100nm and it was tighter than that. Anyway, I may recheck it soon for piece of mind. I thought later I should have marked the pulley to nut location up with some yellow paint so I could do an easy visual check.
I left the pulley off from then on & refiitted the RH roadwheel to use to rotate the crank for timing etc.. which was easy to do.
Removing the starter motor was easier after unbolting & easing the clutch slave down and was really needed to see what was going on with the timing.
I used Jasper5's tensioning method & also checked the tension using a borrowed frequency tester which measures the twang of the belt. The original belt was 30hz, the new one tensioned up as in the write up 36hz, a good result for the given method I feel.
I used an 8mm allen key with two opposite peaks ground down to make a squareish tensioner adjuster which worked really well (I can get odd allen keys free luckilly!)
All done at 97015 miles.
Many thanks to the contributors on this excellent forum.