406oc.co.uk

Back again - I always say thanks on here because (most) of the info is spot on (especially Jasper - top bloke)

Right - I might have buggered up big style somewhere....

Driver side spring went and took out the CV joint... fixed the spring as per instructions on here... Purchased a 'brand new' cv joint from fleabay - £25 with abs ring - also changed drop link, bottom hub ball joint (yes, tapped lip over and purchased the tool with the teeth), track rod end (measured and put back same thread spacing), intermediate bearing, lower rear mount, oil seal and gearbox oil.. was a bugger but got it done - good stuff, well done, pat meself on back.. took it for a drive -

Gear selection hard - bled the clutch using one of those eazibleed jobbos fixed to tyre, went for another wee spin - still hard to select gears - checked gearbox oil - bloody 85/90 not 75/80... got proper job, drained and refilled.. works lot better, no issues selecting gear now... checked receipts that came with car - clutch conversion from DMF to solid in 2006... so....

Driving to work over last week noticed distinct vibration through steering wheel especially in neutral, press brake peddal lessens but doesn't stop it, turn steering wheel makes it worse.. had replacement tensioners (both) and lower pulley 6 months ago.. to be honest sounds like a hole in the exhaust noise - you know, that deep grumble, but stuck rags in end box and no leaks...

Engine still motors through gears, picks up fine when putting boot down, up and down gears rev counter matches speed, will tonk along at 90 on M1... However, has a tinny/rattly noise from gearbox area, makes no difference if I push clutch (which I still think feels softer than before these bits were changed).. no leak from gearbox...

I'm wondering if:

1. I buggered the inner CV joint getting the driveshaft off (I'm sure it was harder to get the shaft back into the hub, seemed too long but was ok if I shoved wheel half of shaft towards inner CV)

2. The outer CV is buggered 'cos it was a cheapo fleabay one

3. I MIGHT have lost one of the intermediate bearing bolts

4. I torqued the lower ball joint as much as I could with added breaker bar, could this be the issue

5. I jiggered the gearbox

6. The clutch needs re-bleeding using the old fashioned pushing of the peddal instead of the eazibleed (yes, I tipped it up drivers side high before I did it)

7. The top/gearbox mounts are shot (motor seems to be going front to back even though new lower engine mount fitted)

Question is... can any, none or all of these cause the vibration at tickover?

Cheers in advance

Gaz

my 1999 d8 use to vibrate on tickover . i had the bottom engine mount replaced when the clutch was done a few months ago and its brilliant now .

Yeh, I just changed the lower mount last weekend - if owt it's all got worse since cv joint replacement

Is the vibration only there on tickover?

Have you jacked up the driver's front wheel and tried spinning the wheel for anything out of order?

Did the driveshaft come out of the inner cv joint? There are 3 bearings with a bunch of tiny needle bearings in there, if they come out you might lose some needle bearings.

You would get a heavy vibration if this happened, but the vibration would make the car very difficult to drive, certainly you wouldn't be able to do 30 without serious problems.

Is the driver's side tyre in good condition?

Thanks for the feedback, It's good to know the advice offered is being noticed, it gets a bit frustrating sometimes giving out advice and not knowing if it helped or not.

My boss lent me £800 towards a new motor but I love my bag o shite and would be loath to get shot if it's only something I've forgot to do.....

I'm wondering if I shagged the lower mount - had to heat housing up to get it in, actual rubber mount had been in freezer for 3 weeks (I forgot it was there) - I can get a whole driveshaft from my auto factor for £83 inc VAT (OEM as well) might order one.. also thinking of filling poxy rear mount with some filler foam to see if that sorts the bugger - the flexi filler, not the rigid stuff

Sorry - vibration on tickover and deceleration - worse if I move the steering wheel whilst stationary - slightly better if I put my foot on the brake - wonder if air in system could cause it (especially in clutch)

I did read somewhere that a solid flywheel conversion can cause vibration,perhaps when you changed the bottom mount it has compounded any vibration you might have already had but was lost in the worn mount,my 110 has had a solid flyweel fitted before i bought it and it's certainly not as smooth at tickover and decelleration as my old 110 Rapier was with a dmf fitted.I also get a bit of vibration when i gently rev up through 1500 rpm and down again.

Problem is I think I have DMF lower pulley on a non clutch alternator (lower mount has rubber windows in and alternator has a large nit in middle of it and not the splined one though I do have a spare alternator that is clutch)

ahhh, soz mate, your on about clutch.. my heads a shed now with this bastard thing

jasper5 wrote:
Thanks for the feedback, It's good to know the advice offered is being noticed, it gets a bit frustrating sometimes giving out advice and not knowing if it helped or not.

i can see how that could happen Jasper, i can pick out a few of you on here who could get frstrated, yourself, doggy, lozz who i must say has kept me awake late the last few nights with his replies (i think he's having trouble sleeping)

Your all doing a cracking job and without your help we'd all be clueless and skint so a big cheers.

Here here chief

VespaSkin wrote:also thinking of filling poxy rear mount with some filler foam to see if that sorts the bugger - the flexi filler, not the rigid stuff

Excuse me for my tiredness but do you mean the bottom mount just behind your sump plug? i got some stuff to do mine and lozz recomended using some old garden hose pipe to fill the gaps first not sure if that helps you?

Yeh, thats the bugger....

VespaSkin wrote:Yeh, thats the bugger....

The stuff my lmf sold me was body 1 part sealant adhesive i hope its the right stuff or he's getting it rammed up his... well you know where lol.. the plan is to put some rubber hose in there and seal it up.

Reckon I'm ebaying the Pug - sick of it, got my eye on a couple of Passat 1.9tdi's... My misses has the petrol estate (2001) and they go forever - I'll stick mine on for £250 start spares or repairs - taxed August MOT October... Might make a couple of hundred back towards the £600 spent so far..... :-(