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hi,my clutch is slipping really bad ive bought a new clutch but do i need to fit a new dmf as these things really are not cheap.can i just fit the new clutch? or not.thanks steve.

codgod wrote:hi,my clutch is slipping really bad ive bought a new clutch but do i need to fit a new dmf as these things really are not cheap.can i just fit the new clutch? or not.thanks steve.

Hi, I've just finished doing my first clutch change. Mine was a 90 BHP so Single Mass Flywheel.
However, unless you have reason to believe that there is something wrong with your flywheel, then as far as I'm aware, you should not need to change it.

I did not need to change my flywheel, once I had taken the HEAVY gear box off, removed the old pressure plate and friction disk, I could see that the flywheel looked fine, as far as my untrained eyes were concerned. To my eyes it looked as good as an unused brake disc.

I guess you need to describe "how" your clutch has "gone" so that the expert guys here can make a more accurate diagnosis.

As far as my experience went, I didn't drop the subframe, so I didn't need to disconnect the exhaust etc... But I may have been a bit gung-ho in my approach - I don't know.

I do know that the points that having a friend would have helped were particularly those involving removing and "dropping" AKA wiggling out and carefully lowering the gearbox, and the opposite of trying to get it back up and in.

Maneuvering the gearbox away from the flywheel wasn't so hard - I progressively eased it away from the engine block using a screwdriver and a medium trolley jack and block of wood to take the weight. Then a 17 year old lad helped stop it crashing into my radiator from above whilst I took it out from underneath.

I recommend putting a wooden panel in behind the radiator "just in case" to absorb any unintentional impacts.

I didn't need any "consumables" in the end ( I was expecting to need circlips for the drive shafts), although I did accidentally order the ML5C driveshaft seals, but seem to be doing ok with the existing BE4 seals in the meantime. PM me If you need a set of ML5C/T seals as I don't need them.

Also, my previous experiences with using ball joint separators were to no use, as sticking an "allen key" into the bottom of the ball-joint-end and using a spanner to undo the nut, followed by a gentle bash of the hammer onto the lower arm were all I needed.

The friendly chaps on this forum have taken plenty of pics and given plenty of advice, but it may well be worth describing your situation a bit more so that we can understand the symptoms etc...

Yes, I know I only have a 90BHP with a different gearbox, but the following posts were the ones that I made whilst changing my clutch and sought reassurance and advice. Whilst the mechanical aspects may differ in your situation, the general concepts are the same, and it may help you to see what I went through:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16458
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16324
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16467
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16350
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16313

Probably the most frustrating thing "post clutch replacement" was bleeding the clutch, as the pedal didn't want to return to the "upwards" position without a bit of cunning.

Oh, and there are 3 (IIRC) clutch replacement posts in the Knowledge Base of this forum - well worth a look!

Good Luck!

hi bytecode thankyou for your detailed reply believe me i need all the help i can get as i have never changed a clutch also like you.i have a hdi exec estate with 155 tho on the clock and the clutch is slipping like mad the car struggles to drive around.i just need to know if the dmf needs changing when the clutch goes as the 90bhp is different to the 110 bhp.i am willing to have a blast at fitting the clutch as i cant afford to pay £500 or whatever the garage want.regards steve.

do a search on here for 'dmf' and take the time to read through the 30-odd pages of results.

I believe the general consensus used to be that you're best off replacing the flywheel while you're at it, and everyone seems insistent that you should replace it with a solid conversion. However given the solid flywheel appears to cost significantly more than a dmf I'm not sure about that one...

I think it's a case of 'whilst your there' replace the DMF.

A worn DMF will give a squeak/chirp when you take up the drive or just starting /shutting off the engine. Eventually the DMF will break up and start hitting the bell housing

I understood the solid conversions were significantly cheaper and have become a common 'fix' on HDi's. Companies like LUK make them I think and it may be worth getting some prices from motor factors etc.

Another common and overlooked problem can be the main crank oil seal, if this is leaking it will get on your new clutch. They don't cost much but I don't really know how they fit either

Once you've done all this you may well find the rear lower engine mount is shot too and giving too much engine movement (this will be more pronounced with your new snappy clutch) this is well worth fixing and it'll make the car drive like new.

I have to say this clutch change is a complete sh*t of a job by most accounts so be sure your are ready and willing to have a go.

Dont worry about the DMF until you have pulled off the clutch , you can then check
it for rotational free play , if this is not excessive (and i will bet it isn't) then you
can make your mind up as regards replacement . You may be able to google the
exact free play allowed . Can't remember anyone on here having a full blown
DMF failure .

puggy wrote:Can't remember anyone on here having a full blown
DMF failure .

There was one ages ago, hitting the bell housing etc but you make a fair point there Puggy with some good advice! (even if it is early, what happened? sh*t the bed again? )

Thankyou Welly just burst out laughing loud as i read that

I saw no mention of age of your car ( glasses are dirty lol )

If it's one of the first 110 hdi's then there is the possibility it's not fitted with a DMF

My thrust bearing started going on my 110 a few months ago, and at one point I thought if I have to put a DMF in it, i'd scrap the car
However, much to my delight, I found the earliest 110's had solid flywheels as standard

Sorry interrupting , but what's considered " first's HDi's " ? Please answer by month-year , not X plates or anything like, because i won't understand , i'm about to replace my clutch too, but it will be changed on garage.
thank you

RayneR wrote:Sorry interrupting , but what's considered " first's HDi's " ? Please answer by month-year , not X plates or anything like, because i won't understand , i'm about to replace my clutch too, but it will be changed on garage.
thank you

T and Vreg where the early days of the D9

so thats, around year late 98 -2000 eveything after mid- late 2000 started to get the Dmfs so iwas told
dont know if thats true,

T reg relates to year = 1998 -1999 Vreg relates to = 1999 -2000

Mine is May 2000, not mid(maybe a bit, its from day 25-May ) or late 2000, so i'm confused ... Can't we know by the VIN number? on peugeot service box / sedra... ( widely guessing here ) ?

ive been told the citreon hdis 110s dont have Dmfs,
might be worth some research if someones looking to replace clutch and bin the dmf

some info here :

Vehicle : Citreon Xsara 2.0 HDi 109
Engine Code : RHZ. DW10ATED
Plate Diameter : 230mm
Spline Count : 18

wonder if these wouid fit the peugeot 110 hdi ?

Would be cool if that's true. But anyway, on ebay there's a cheap kit with solid flywheel. I think i might buy it, here in this little hole called Portugal, they ask for 600 EUR, for the thing to be placed.

RayneR wrote:Mine is May 2000, not mid(maybe a bit, its from day 25-May ) or late 2000, so i'm confused ... Can't we know by the VIN number? on peugeot service box / sedra... ( widely guessing here ) ?

Sorry idont know mate.
Best person to ask on the servicebox /sedre wouid be steve earwig.
might be worth asking him on that subject

iknow mine was year 99 and that was built dec that year and that had solid flywheel standard,
so you might be lucky and not have dmf,