406oc.co.uk

I have a 1.9 Turbo Executive 1996, D8, 236,000 + on the clock.

It is getting difficult to start and the obvious thing to change it the glow plugs.
The two furthest from the timing belt have been changed but I can't see how to change the two nearest the timing belt without removing the fuel pump and possibly part of the engine top mount.

Is there some sort of trick to getting access to these or is it really that awkward?

Thanks for any help.

Regards,
Colin.

ColinCranwell wrote:I have a 1.9 Turbo Executive 1996, D8, 236,000 + on the clock.

It is getting difficult to start and the obvious thing to change it the glow plugs.
The two furthest from the timing belt have been changed but I can't see how to change the two nearest the timing belt without removing the fuel pump and possibly part of the engine top mount.

Is there some sort of trick to getting access to these or is it really that awkward?

Thanks for any help.

Regards,
Colin.

Some folks find it easier to remove the injector pipes, personally i've never had to do that, but have removed a rubber hose that is in the way....if you are a novice I would suggest removing the injector pipes.

Use a long 12mm spanner after soaking the threads of the plugs with WD40 as long as possible., better with a warm engine as well (not hot to avoid burns).

jasper5 wrote:after soaking the threads of the plugs with WD40 as long as possible

+1 to that, it wouldn't be the first time an old glowy has snapped-off in the head

Might be worth checking there isn't a leak too causing some fuel to drain back overnight (long cranking time).

I think a ratchet spanner would be ideal for that awkward one. And heed the advice about breaking one of the buggers off, that is the last thing you want. WD40 and a warm engine are good tips. Slow easy torque to remove. Refit with a smear of copper slip on the threads and torque correctly, the main problem here is people whack them in super tight then they are prone to breaking off when you come to remove them a couple of years later.

In my case, the broken end fell back into the head, the head had to come off to retrieve the tip

I am working away from home for awhile, so won't be trying this for a few days.

Now I know it can be done, I will keep at it, though ally406 story makes me pause! I think I will get a good quality spanner for this. Most of my small spanners are fairly cheap and do most jobs ok but this needs something better.

I have a couple of spare batteries in the boot just in case.

Thanks.

Regards,
Colin.

ally406 wrote:I think a ratchet spanner would be ideal for that awkward one. And heed the advice about breaking one of the buggers off, that is the last thing you want. WD40 and a warm engine are good tips. Slow easy torque to remove. Refit with a smear of copper slip on the threads and torque correctly, the main problem here is people whack them in super tight then they are prone to breaking off when you come to remove them a couple of years later.

In my case, the broken end fell back into the head, the head had to come off to retrieve the tip

When they break off they break off in the threaded bit, yours must have broken for some other reason as your threads are intact.

Very simple job, take off the two injector lines nearest the cambelt and suddenly you've got loads of space and don't need to fiddle around working with your finger tips.

A magnet stick is also useful on this job.

Got this job done at the weekend.

Even after removing all the air ducting and flexible piping bracket access is still difficult. I could get the open ended spanner on the glow plug but at an angle, not on square at all. The plugs were in fairly tight an I was relucant to put too much pressure on them, in case I rounded off the hex.
I eventually went and bought a ring spanner with a swivel head and rachet, expensive. I had to remove one more pipe bracket and then got the ring fully on the plug by coming in from the far end. Once there it was easy to get it to move. Very fiddly getting the old plugs out and the new ones in.
Now I have done it, I see what jasper5 mean about just using the open spanner but I would never really tried that without having done it once.

Thanks for the advice.

Regards,
Colin.

I have not much tools for cars, my kit is mostly house-bashing kit and plumbing/electrical so when it comes to cars I always consider the cost of buying the stuff I would need to do the job and THEN send the car to my man (who has lots of kit in shiny boxes/drawers). I don't even have a trolley jack or stands