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I’m fining it really hard to select gears. Once the car’s in gear it doesn’t slip and dives really well, it’s just getting it into gear.

Clutch pedal isn’t sitting on the floor, so I don’t think it’s a major leak, it started to happen after my breaks got changed.

Could it be air in the system or am I looking at a new clutch?

Cheers in advance.

Matt

Is your cluth fluid level okay. Do the gears select okay without the engine running? Is there any play in the clutch pedal. I'm presuming yours is hydraulic clutch. I can't see why any work on the brakes would affect the clutch operation as the clutch fluid is seperate to the brake fluid.
If its a cable clutch check to see if the clutch pedal is level with the brake pedal and that there is not loads of play at the other end.

Thanks mate for the quick reply.

I’m a bit of a novice when it comes to things like this.

Yes the gears select fine when the car isn’t running.
Clutch pedal is slightly lower than the brake pedal. What kind of play do you mean sorry??
I think it’s an hydraulic clutch – 1999 T reg HDI
I thought the clutch and brakes run of the same fluid, where is the clutch reservoir located please?

The clutch fluid res is on the o/s engine bay high up on the bulk head, its a small black plastic thing smaller than a fag box. The bad news is they are a sealed system and can't be repaired (if its that) the clutch master cylinder, pipework and slave cylinder is all one piece.
If you grab the clutch pedal with your hand and gently push down on it you will get to a point when it gets stiffer, the free play shouldn't be much more than a few m. If the pedal is noticeably lower than the brake pedal there could be a problem with the hydraulic system.
If it turns out that this is the problem, fear not a have one in the shed somewhere. Peugeot will want your arm for one. Though it can be a bit fidly getting It off the pedal end if I recall.

You could have a look at the slave cylinder to check for leaks or damage. Its simple to remove, it just twists anti clock wise and pulls out. You may have to take the battery and carrier out to get access. Also if you take that off be carful with the rod in the cylinder as if it comes out its no good.
Without seeing it I can't really help any more than that with diagnosis but these are the main things to look for.

Lovely job mate, I will take a look at all your points.

I have read on here that you cab bleed the slave cylinder on these, where would the top up of the fluid go if it’s a sealed system?

I meant sealed as in you can't remove the slave cylinder from the pipework etc. I can't remember seeing a bleed nipple on it but if there is its well worth bleeding the old fluid out.

Cool mate, lovely job!! guess what I'll be doing this afternoon in the rain!! YEEEY ... not

Hold on, the clutch is a sealed system on D8s, on D9s it shares the brake reservoir and if this has been allowed to drop during bleeding or whatever the clutch may have sucked some air in. There is a bleed nipple on the slave. I'm hoping it's a D9, although if it's a D8 Travis there has a spare...

Thanks mate.
After looking at it the slave cylinder it did have a bleed nipple (think my cars an early D9 then ), I tried bleeding it through as it did share the break reservoir, used about 1ltr to try to give the system a good flush and still no joy .
Saying that I was using a single person bleed kit (using the tyre pressure), would this cause any issues??
Other than that I really don’t have a clue .. any suggestions would be gratefully received ...

I've recently been told that a chassis number higher than 80800000 makes it a D9. Can you see the pipe coming off the brake m/cylinder reservoir? It's right near the top so if the level of the fluid drops below this it'll just blow air into the system.

Well I guess it a D9


Is this the pipe (Highlighted in red) leading to the Master Cylinder, as I said I recently had my pads changed by a garage and I’m not sure if air would of got in.


This is the bleed nipple on the slave I used.

That's a D9 all right, a 2.0 HDi 90bhp. It does seem a bit much to be coincidence it should do this right after you had your brakes "changed" but I don't know what else to suggest.

Thanks mate.

Well just been to the garage about it (as I ran out of ideas) and they jumped in and said .... "you need a new clutch" ... and proceed to tell me that it will cost £690.

Would it be a job I could do over the weekend?
Would I need to replace the flywheel as well?
What have other people paid?

..... just gose from bad to worse!! ...

Before you give up and have a new clutch, try bleeding the system again, this time jack up the drivers side of the car (raising the master cylinder higher).

Using a tube on the bleed nipple (if you are solo) and pouring fluid in to keep the cylinder full all the while, pump the clutch pedal up and down until the fluid is coming out of the tube without air.

Do not let the fluid level drop below full.

You won't need to change the flywheel on a 90.

I will have a go at that mate, last time I raised the passanger side up .
Cool, no fly wheel brings it down ALOT!! lol
If it dose need a new clutch, how long dose a clutch normall take to replace??