Crankshft pulley alternatives

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V6Exec
3.0 24v
Posts: 535
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:17 pm
Location: Herts

Re: Crankshft pulley alternatives

Post by V6Exec »

min wrote:
hdibio wrote:Quick fix to stop pulley from coming apart and destroying engine ! Remove pulley , grind a small clean peice of metal either side of the rubber part , fetch welder and buzz till hearts content , grind welds to stop from scuffing job done , done 30,000 miles on mine this way and done the same on a Picasso that's now done 10,000 like this
Hdibio
Sorry, it's not very clear to me what this 'treatment' consists of - do you have a picture with the reconditioned pulley in ordert to understand better?
Thanks.
The "treatment" appears to be to weld across the rubber section converting it into a solid pulley - see video above for why this is not a good idea.

I fitted the new pulley over a period of 2 days taking about 30 mins in total to do the actual work. In between I drove the car around 50 miles.

Turns out you can do all the work without even taking the wheel off (though it is easier if you do)

1) remove wheel arch liner (taking wheel off helps with access - but once the liner is out you can put the wheel back on, I did all the following steps with the road wheels on)
2) lock back the tensioner and slip off the old belt
3) rattle off the pulley bolt and remove pulley
4) fit new pulley and secure with threadlocked bolt (the reason mine took two days was because I had run out of threadlock)
5) fit new belt (or refit old if in very good condition)
6) refit wheel arch liner (this is quite easy even with the wheel on)
Remember - it only takes a few inches of water to drown a 406 don't make the same mistake I made! The V6 Exec is no more.

406 Coupe S HDi

PP2000 clone interface
min
1.8 8v
Posts: 42
Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 12:47 am

Re: Crankshft pulley alternatives

Post by min »

Now it's clear what the treatment consists of; I also evaluated the welding solution but I don't think it's the best idea...

Regarding the replacement procedure I did it also in the weekend, indeed it can be done without removal off all the mentioned parts but in case the pulley screw is difficult to remove and you need an extension for the key it's better to remove the wheel archer and wheel. Also if someone uses the pneumatic gun for removing the screw the parts removal is needed.
2001 - Satellite Grey - 2.2L HDi - SE
Saloon without FAP/Airdossers/EGR/Swirl, IQ93, 6 speed gearbox, Setrab oil cooler
V6Exec
3.0 24v
Posts: 535
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:17 pm
Location: Herts

Re: Crankshft pulley alternatives

Post by V6Exec »

min wrote: Also if someone uses the pneumatic gun for removing the screw the parts removal is needed.
The liner needs to be removed, but my impact gun fitted into the space behind the wheel on full lock.
Remember - it only takes a few inches of water to drown a 406 don't make the same mistake I made! The V6 Exec is no more.

406 Coupe S HDi

PP2000 clone interface
hdibio
Newbie
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:35 pm

Re: Crankshft pulley alternatives

Post by hdibio »

V6Exec wrote:
min wrote:
hdibio wrote:Quick fix to stop pulley from coming apart and destroying engine ! Remove pulley , grind a small clean peice of metal either side of the rubber part , fetch welder and buzz till hearts content , grind welds to stop from scuffing job done , done 30,000 miles on mine this way and done the same on a Picasso that's now done 10,000 like this
Hdibio
Sorry, it's not very clear to me what this 'treatment' consists of - do you have a picture with the reconditioned pulley in ordert to understand better?
Thanks.
The "treatment" appears to be to weld across the rubber section converting it into a solid pulley - see video above for why this is not a good idea.

I fitted the new pulley over a period of 2 days taking about 30 mins in total to do the actual work. In between I drove the car around 50 miles.

Turns out you can do all the work without even taking the wheel off (though it is easier if you do)

1) remove wheel arch liner (taking wheel off helps with access - but once the liner is out you can put the wheel back on, I did all the following steps with the road wheels on)
2) lock back the tensioner and slip off the old belt
3) rattle off the pulley bolt and remove pulley
4) fit new pulley and secure with threadlocked bolt (the reason mine took two days was because I had run out of threadlock)
5) fit new belt (or refit old if in very good condition)
6) refit wheel arch liner (this is quite easy even with the wheel on)
As stated at the start of my post quick fix to stop the pulley coming apart and destroying your engine ! Not be all end all solution to horrible pulley problems with ridiculously low lifespan , watched the video and experience no belt slip/slap excessive tensioner movement or stress !
Serviced a taxi yesterday with a solid pulley at 230000 miles guy said it was changed 5 years ago to a cheap solid one ! No worries about a damaged crankshaft from it
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