406HDi 110 BHP, 1999.
At tick over speed, should I have vacuum at the Electro Valve inlet/oulet where the pipe connects to the Wategate Solenoids?
Secondly, what's the best way to check out the solenoids themselves - I have checked the voltage to them and both show approx 3.5V with the igition on. But how di I know they are doing their job?
Thanks in advance.
Electro valve and Wastegate solenoids
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Re: Electro valve and Wastegate solenoids
There are usually two (although some models have three) "electrovalves" on the bulkhead. These are variable solenoid valves that control the amount of vacuum to the EGR valve and turbo wastegate actuator. As far as I know the control signal to them isn't a straightforward dc voltage level. I have some printed documentation which says they are controlled by OCR "open cycle ratio". I don't know what this is supposed to mean (I think a poor translation from French) but I presume it is a variable mark:space ratio square wave (can anyone confirm this?). With a dc voltmeter you can measure a varying voltage under different engine load/temperature etc. but I'm not sure that there is a "correct" value in this scenario because it depends on how your voltmeter interprets the signal. An oscilloscope would be the only sure way to know. The control signals come from the ECU.
Each electrovalve has three pipe connections and one electrical connection.
The bottom pipe connection is the atmosphere inlet (they have a foam filter to stop crap going in).
The central top pipe connection is the one that should go back to the vacuum pump
The other top pipe connection should go to the EGR valve or wastegate. If I remember correctly this connection has a dab of white paint on it.
It is always worth checking all vacuum pipes and connections for leaks, and I think the electrovalves are the same for wastegate and EGR so you may be able to swap them over to eliminate/troubleshoot a problem.
Hope this helps
Each electrovalve has three pipe connections and one electrical connection.
The bottom pipe connection is the atmosphere inlet (they have a foam filter to stop crap going in).
The central top pipe connection is the one that should go back to the vacuum pump
The other top pipe connection should go to the EGR valve or wastegate. If I remember correctly this connection has a dab of white paint on it.
It is always worth checking all vacuum pipes and connections for leaks, and I think the electrovalves are the same for wastegate and EGR so you may be able to swap them over to eliminate/troubleshoot a problem.
Hope this helps
Re: Electro valve and Wastegate solenoids
Thanks Panda.
I have checked all of the pipes out and they seem OK as far as I can tell. I have removed the solenoids themselves and cleaned out the lower breather and it's small sponge filter. The sponges were very dirty/sooty. Put it all back together. I've double checked/cleaned all of the connections to the MAF, MAP and solenoids. Ran a diagnostic and had to clear P0235 Turb sensor 'A' circuit and P0243 Wastegate Solenoid 'A'. I also left the battery negative lead of for at least 15 mins. Cleaned the throttle sensor plates/magnets and its connectors.
Started her up and it's like a new car - well like it used to be. Turbo is working, power is up and it's a delight to drive again. I've been extra careful with the use of the throttle, as in the past diagnostic warnings seem to occur when I try and floor it to get max power. By being careful with throttle use, I've the car running now for a couple of days and no warnings yet!
Fingers crossed . . .
Thanks for the advice.
gppj25
I have checked all of the pipes out and they seem OK as far as I can tell. I have removed the solenoids themselves and cleaned out the lower breather and it's small sponge filter. The sponges were very dirty/sooty. Put it all back together. I've double checked/cleaned all of the connections to the MAF, MAP and solenoids. Ran a diagnostic and had to clear P0235 Turb sensor 'A' circuit and P0243 Wastegate Solenoid 'A'. I also left the battery negative lead of for at least 15 mins. Cleaned the throttle sensor plates/magnets and its connectors.
Started her up and it's like a new car - well like it used to be. Turbo is working, power is up and it's a delight to drive again. I've been extra careful with the use of the throttle, as in the past diagnostic warnings seem to occur when I try and floor it to get max power. By being careful with throttle use, I've the car running now for a couple of days and no warnings yet!
Fingers crossed . . .
Thanks for the advice.
gppj25