
knocking on rear!!
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knocking on rear!!
ive a knocking on my estate rear suspension relaced the a/r/b links which took away some but still get it over rough ground been underneath it and checked all bushes with prybar any ides? 

Just had this problem, it turned out to be Track arm (couldn,t feel hardly any play with pry bar) but if you bar hub up/down off block of wood on floor then you will hear knock and possibly see play on this knuckle. When removed end connected to hub and barred hub up and down knocking disappears.
Peugeot part £46.00 plus vat. jpr motors ebay £7.99 plus £3.99 delivery (don,t mind if I have to change it again for that price.
Peugeot part £46.00 plus vat. jpr motors ebay £7.99 plus £3.99 delivery (don,t mind if I have to change it again for that price.
- darrenwall
- 2.0 Turbo
- Posts: 471
- Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:43 pm
- Location: caerphilly , south wales
- jameslxdt
- 3.0 24v
- Posts: 2512
- Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:30 pm
- Location: London, on me bike
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i have this problem now, im just too lazy to sort it out, i also had the same problem as maglite with the anti roll bar bushes, but mine were sqeaking not clonking/knockingdarrenwall wrote:i had a knocking noise recently coming from the rear and i checked everything underneath and it was fine , turned out to be the jack and wheel brace in the spare wheel had come loose and would bang against eachother if i went over a bump
FAQ - 406 D8 petrol (excl. V6) running and starting problemsPeugeot wrote:what are you worried about? we made car that lasted 10 years"..."Zat is very goode non?
If you look at maglites photo, look between spring and the red-ringed joint. The track arm is the one coming towards you, it has a horizontal bushed joint on one end which you can see in picture.
The other end looks like a "track rod end" but the pin is not tapered and this fastens onto the wheel hub. To stop pin turning when undoing the retaining bolt there is an internal torx indent on the end of the pin. The other end of the track arm (horizontally mounted) has a cammed washer welded to the mounting bolt, the cammed washer rubs against a raised pressing on the slotted mounting, this is used to align the wheel, make sure you mark the washer in comparison to the mounting when you take it off as you will re-use bolt, otherwise you will need to have rear wheels re-tracked.
Good luck.
The other end looks like a "track rod end" but the pin is not tapered and this fastens onto the wheel hub. To stop pin turning when undoing the retaining bolt there is an internal torx indent on the end of the pin. The other end of the track arm (horizontally mounted) has a cammed washer welded to the mounting bolt, the cammed washer rubs against a raised pressing on the slotted mounting, this is used to align the wheel, make sure you mark the washer in comparison to the mounting when you take it off as you will re-use bolt, otherwise you will need to have rear wheels re-tracked.
Good luck.
It's reasonably simple to change (I've probably made it sound more complicated than it is) You won't get a new mounting bolt with the new arm, so make a good job of cleaning up thread end before trying to remove it. Clean up bolt head whilst still in position then use a sharp chisel and mark edge of washer which is welded to the head of the bolt (if you have a close look you will see the washer is not central to the bolt) Then mark the mounting plate in accordance to the washer so you can refit the bolt in the same position. If you now slacken and back the nut off a bit and turn the head of the bolt you will see how this adjustment can alter the apparent length of the arm and hence adjust the wheel hub alignment to the car when you do this all will become clear. good luck.