HowTo: Fit a Leather drivers seat into a non-Executive D9.

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HowTo: Fit a Leather drivers seat into a non-Executive D9.

Post by GingerMagic » Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:46 pm

As some of you may know - my donor car is a 406 Executive Estate and its replacement is a 406 GLX Estate. I wanted to swap the cloth interior with the leather interior from the donor car as I quite like it..... :cheesy:

The estate back seats are easy enough, straight swap although if you have a 7 seater its a bit hard to reach 2 of the bolts that hold the back rests in place - otherwise its straightforward enough.

The front passenger seat is again a straight swap, bolt for bolt and wire for wire - although if your car has the troublesome 'Seatbelt Pre-tensioner' airbag then the connector may have been chopped out and bypassed. Mine GLX was so I had to cut the wires and then try to remember which one went where, seeing as Peugeot helpfully made the wires all the same colour... :roll:
With help from Mark W, the codes on the wire are as follows;
Blue connector ( Side Airbag ) 6508 joins 6506, and 6509 joins 6507
Brown connector ( Pre-tensioner ) 651 joins 653, and 650 joins 652

The drivers seat is a whole different ball game though - the seat fits bolt for bolt but the wiring is completely different.
On a standard cloth electric seat, the power comes from the yellow connector under the seat - then to the switches - then on to the individual motors.
On the Executive, the power goes from the yellow connector - to the seat memory ECU - back to the seat - then the switches - then the motors ( I think ) so the connectors are different.

First of all I contacted Mark W again ( thanks Mark ) for a breakdown of how to get power to the seat and he very kindly sent me a description of how to rewire it. In the meantime I read the link on the Knowledge Base for bypassing the memory ECU :arrowd:
but got a bit blinded by it all - and electrickery isn't my thing, however one line in the post said " remove the switches " which gave me a :idea: moment...

Why don't I just remove the switches from the GLX and put them onto the leather seat? Surely it can't be as simple as that, can it??

So I gave it a go; please excuse the poor quality phone pictures

First of all I unplugged the orange connector and the yellow connector from the seat base to free it, then I gradually persuaded the clips to come away from the base ( careful of the orange wire thats cable tied to it..) and then I removed the switches and pulled the cables through the hole. The switches are held in by 4 spring clips so it can simply be pulled away from the seat base. You can just see the clips on the edges.
Rear view of the switches.
I then plugged it back in to make sure I could still move the seat to get to the fixing bolts..
GLX switches removed and plugged at the front to power the seat for removal
Then I removed the GLX seat completely and put the leather one in. I had previously removed the switches from the leather seat but kept the connections in place because they were too big to fit through the hole, and I wanted to check the GLX switches were compatible before I got busy snipping.. You can see the bigger white connector on the leather seat, much different from the orange connector.
Connector comparison
Then I plugged the GLX switch into the leather seat from the front just to see if it worked...
Switch check
All good - the seat moved backwards and forwards and up and down, so I cut the leather seats switches free from the base and threaded the GLX switches through the hole..( my leather was slightly ripped already, no further damage was done by removing the switches )
GLX switch into leather seat
Then I plugged it all in, bolted the seat down and Bob's your Uncle - the seat has power from the yellow plug and the switches work too. :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: 8)

Minimal effort, even a ham-fisted numpty like me can do it.

Oh, upon testing the seat I realised that the switches are slightly different - forwards was backwards, up was down etc........pffft :roll:
Not a big issue - its only a case of moving a couple of wires on the orange connector.
Orange connector
The wires are basically vertical, so you only need to swap top and bottom of each column
To help identify the wires, the numbers are as follows;
The left 2 are Front motor up and down ( 6328 and 6336 )
The next ones along are Forwards and backwards ( 6320 and 6325 )
Next along are the Rear motor up and down ( 6334 and 6338 )
The ones on the right hand side are for the backrest ( 6355 and 6350 ) although these were in the right place and the backrest moved correctly.

To do this you need to release and pull back the grey clip, lift the tiny orange tab and poke a small flat blade in the gap to release the connector
Split connector
I haven't done this yet though as I spent a while threading the switches in, I'm not going to remove them again just yet to swap the wires ( the pictures are from the donor cars connector :wink: )

I recommend you swap these wires over before fitting the leather seat and threading the switch in it while you have space, visibility, enthusiasm etc..

Jobs a good'un :cheesy:

Thanks again to Mark W for his help and continued patience...

Hope this helps.
1999 T4 family wagon, slow as a turd but the kids like it
2002 Citroen Xsara Picasso Hdi90 - Dirtied by the kids, Dented by the wife....
Sadly sold the 406, best cars I have ever owned
PP2000 user, can help with faults / diagnostics in the Bournemouth area.

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Re: How to fit a Leather drivers seat into a non-Executive D

Post by Doggy » Sun Dec 21, 2014 12:53 am

Excellent HowTo 8)

I've mildly edited the title and moved to the KB
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate