So, you're telling me everyone on here bar you cannot make the handbrake work properly, just because you've worked as a mechanic for a while?
Even though a massive amount of MOT failures for 406's are on handbrake efficiency? What are all those mechanics doing wrong? Or are they the wrong sort of mechanic?
Of course you can make it pass an MOT, anyone can do that, mine's setup as good as it can be - it'll hold on a hill with 4 clicks, but it still takes 3x the force my 306 did to do that, and you don't have much force spare because as I said earlier - you can feel it start to just stretch the cables and linkages.
I don't want that, I want a good
handbrake, one that has enough power to lock the rear wheels, because I use my car on gravel and mud tracks, and in heavy snow over the winter, where you need the option to change the brake bias- not one that passes the frankly laughable MOT test. It's not possible with the standard setup, the leverage reduces the more pressure you apply, it's basic physics the way the system is arranged given the geometry of the brake expanders and the handbrake pivot - that's why the 406's handbrake takes so much more force than most to start with.
If you think cleaning up and swapping parts for a few years in any way compares to physically designing and making your own calipers, discs, pads, uprights, hydraulic systems, etc, then I'll leave that argument right there. Here's a hint. I do cars for the public too. Including general mechanical repairs. Shock. Horror.