How To - D9 Full-Mux Cruise Control Retrofit

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How To - D9 Full-Mux Cruise Control Retrofit

Post by steve_earwig » Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:18 am

The car featured in this how to is my December 2003-built (RPO 9891) 2.0HDI 110 lhd estate but the principals should be the same for other 406s. Obviously having only done one car I am no expert, but I did plenty of research on other PSA car sites.

You will need:
A working installation of Peugeot Planet 2000 along with the interface.
The steering column control stalk (part number 6242 Z9)
A redundant brake light switch (part number 1628 7P - it's red) along with its retaining clip (4534 30) - Please note: The clip is the same as the brake light switch's but the switch itself is not. The brake light switch works in the normal manner, that is when the pedal is released it pushes the plunger in and the switch is open circuit. As the pedal is pressed it moves away releasing the plunger and the contacts close, lighting up the brake lights. The redundant switch is the complete opposite of this, as the pedal is pressed the contacts open.

You might wish to look at this, which is the same job on a semi.mux HDi90: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giU21PviWJM and also the text that goes with it http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/mai ... %5D-28067/

BEFORE YOU START!
You should first check on your car to see if this is going to be possible.

Firstly, check above the steering column for the RED connector for the redundant brake switch. It's the blue one here :roll: labelled with the switch's designation (2101) and the size and colour of the connector (2-way red):
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You'll have to remove the bottom sound deadening pad and maybe fish for it, it *should* come out of the trunking below the instrument panel along with the feed for the brake light switch (that's the one next to it). If you can't see it up there don't start taking the dash to pieces, you won't see anything else, PSA probably saved a couple of Centimes and didn't fit it - mine was missing too, it's not the end of the world but it's a fair old job to wire it in yourself.

NB on left-hand drive cars the switches are reversed.

While you're down there, check for the second hole in the bracket for the redundant switch, they're circled, along with the brake light switch, here:
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I don't think PSA made a 406 pedal bracket without this but it seems quite common on other PSA cars so I thought it would be worth checking. As it's part of the pedal bracket adding it might be a bit of a pain. Alternatively some later PSA cars have a double switch which might be worth investigating.

Also (where applicable), check for the clutch switch, mounted similarly above the clutch pedal. Note: the "clutch contact input" will probably be set to absent in Peugeot Planet under the BSI, this appears to be normal.

Next, pull off the steering column lower shroud (2xT20) and check that the com2000 has a socket for the stalk - it should be opposite the stereo stalk with a black blanking plug:
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Lastly, fire up Peugeot Planet 2000 and check that both the engine ecu and BSI have the options for cruise control:

Engine:
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BSI:
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You might wish to check that both can be added but don't leave it like that yet - the car will probably throw up faults as it looks for things that aren't there.

INSTALLATION
Start off by following the 2 minute rule here viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13431&p=122217&hil ... le#p122217 to disconnect the battery. I'm not sure this is strictly necessary, however the lights still work with the ignition off so the com2000 still has power and I wouldn't like it to take offence.

Plugging the stalk into the com2000, it has a nice positive click as it goes in. You'll obviously have to modify the lower shroud now but that's just a matter of making a mirror image of the slot for the stereo control stalk. Anyway, it doesn't need to be there for a test drive.

Next comes the redundant brake switch. It's quite hard to get to and some have removed the dash lower panel and removed the bolts holding up the steering column to get it out the way. You might want to fit the connector into the switch before you fit it. put the clip in first, followed by the switch (the rings are concentric so there's no point in turning it). Push it onto the first ring and then you're ready for fine tuning using Peugeot Planet.

Reconnect the battery and fire up Peugeot Planet. Firstly you need to enable it in the engine ecu and the BSI. Referring back to the two diagrams:

Engine:
Image

BSI:
Image

To change the state between present & absent for the engine ecu and with/without cruise control just double click on the line. You will then need to confirm the changes, using the "Confirmation/F1" in the bottom left-hand corner (if you don't do this any changes you make will be lost).

Once you've done these, navigate your way over to this page:
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These are the two switches: "Main brake switch" is the brake light switch and "cruise control switch" is the redundant brake switch. At rest they both should read "inactive", then as the brake pedal is pressed first one then the other should change to "active". In this particular animation you can see that first the brake light switch goes active, followed by the redundant and my car works like this, however I'm told by Malc that his wouldn't work like this and threw up a coherence fault under the engine ecu, so I could do with some feedback on this one. Either way, move the redundant switch up and/or down until you achieve the desired effect.

Next you may as well check the functions on the cruise control stalk:
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All the switches should do something, the only one I got here was the on/off switch because I couldn't reach the laptop to hit PRNT SCRN for the others.

And that should be it 8) Put the car back together and take it for a test drive. Find a nice straight empty bit of road and try it out.
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Test all the buttons and also check that both pressing the clutch or brake pedal cause cruise to cancel.

If you've never used cruise control before I'm told the effect can be a little unnerving to start off with. If you have then you might be surprised to find the pedal doesn't drop away from your foot as the throttle increases: there is no mechanical control to the throttle as it's all electronic.


For any feedback, suggestions or questions, please feel free to post on the original thread here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20728&p=206320#p206320
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

2004 D9 2.0 HDi 110 Estate lhd VF38ERHZF81657352 - sold but being very well looked after.
1991 Yamaha TDM850 - fuel leaks galore!
2008 Toyota Recall4 2.0 VVTI ATM LHD JTMBH31V90D007261 - flimsy piece of crap.
1953 Matchless G3LS - It's alive!!

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Re: How To - D9 Full-Mux Cruise Control Retrofit

Post by steve_earwig » Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:01 pm

Oh no, I can't find my redundant switch feed :(

What to do if your redundant brake switch connector is missing.

This is what I had to do to run a wire into my D9. Obviously as the car is left-hand drive there will be some differences so this should probably be used as a guide only. I'd hope anybody reading this would read through it and gain some ideas from my experience (and learn from my cock-ups :oops: )

After taking my dashboard to pieces and looking everywhere I came to the conclusion that the connector just wasn't there. This was confirmed by checking the grey connector to the engine ecu, where I found an empty hole where the redundant brake switch wire should have been:-

Cruise control synopsis:
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2101 (redundant brake switch) electrical:
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Note the connection between fuse 3 in the passenger fuse compartment and terminal E4 of the grey 32-way engine ecu connector. That's what's missing.

(Note: it seems to be terminal E4 on almost all full-mux 406s, except for the 2.2 16-valve petrol (EW12J4) which is pin M1 on the 48-way brown (MR) middle connector.)

Redundant brake switch installation:
Image

Engine ecu connections:
Image

Engine ecu wiring installation:
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Opening up the connector.

The ecu connectors are made by Molex and the one in question for most full-mux D9s appears to be this one http://www.molex.com/molex/products/dat ... USINGS.xml. To get into the connector to check for the wire, you'll need to pull off the cover. Next you'll be faced with 3 connectors and it's the one closest to the front of the car (32V GR = 32-way grey) we'll be dealing with here.

First, to release the clamp you have to push down the small clip at the top and rotate the top of the clamp downwards towards the front of the car:
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When it gets to horizontal it should make a click, which is it locking, and the connector is now free.

To remove the clamp, the pivots on both sides feature a key, line up both sides with the key, spread it apart slightly and remove it:
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Next, clip off the cable tie from the cover:
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Then remove the cover. This is held in place by a clip either side:
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release these and slide the cover forwards and off.

The connector itself is labelled A to H down both sides and 1 to 4 on the front from right to left. What they've done is, instead of just labelling them 1 to 32, they've used a mapping co-ordinate, so finding a pin is like looking for a street in an A-to-Z :cheesy: This is actually where I made my greatest mistake, the markings on the block are so small I couldn't make them out even with my specs on, so I counted them the wrong was and ended up putting a wire in D4. Fortunately there was no damage done. I was still wondering where I'd gone wrong when I came across this diagram:
Image
which I have marked with the location of E4 on the grey 32-way connector. NOTE WHICH WAY THEY COUNT!

Installation
I used:
Molex 64322-1029 connector pins
3 meters of 1mm & 2 meters of .75mm multi-strand wire
Molex crimpers
Various crimp connectors (see text)
Soldering iron (w solder)
A knitting needle (seriously)
A hair grip (that too)
A pin
Loom tape
Impact adhesive
Nerves of steel.

The Molex connectors here have 2 different sizes of pin. On the Molex link above there's a .pdf drawing and at the bottom of this there's a list of pins used:
Image
A1 to F4 need the CP 0.6 pins and G1 to H4 need the larger CP 1.5. There are also different sites and materials, I went for the .75mm X2s as that's fine enough, and tin plated because I'm not rich, part number 64322-1029. (Btw the 2.2 EW12 would need the bigger 1.5 pins) I tried all the usual on-line electronics catalogues shops but they either wanted to sell me rolls containing thousands of the things or would sell me just a few but wanted to charge me a fortune for shipping, so I ended up buying 10 from ebay for a few pounds. I'd link the seller but they seem to have gone bust :( There is someone selling them on there now but they want a small fortune for them :frown: I used 4 of them: One to try out the crimpers, one because I originally tried 1mm wire but it wouldn't go in the connector, one because I'm a clod and one that's in there now. I wouldn't buy just 1 anyway.

Edit: presently on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-MOLEX-64 ... 51add1e870

The crimpers I used are these ones http://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta ... 63811-1000 which I had anyway for a rewire I still have to do on a Moto Guzzi from the '70s which also uses Molex connectors. They're not exactly cheap but the real thing is a couple of hundred pounds :shock: You *might* be able to get away with pliers or cheap and cheerful crimpers but bear in mind that the hole they go into in the connector is tiny and barely has room for the pin when it's properly crimped.

Close up:
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I'm not exactly sure what the numbers mean, whether it's the size of the conductor or conductor and pin combined, but anyway I started with the biggest notch to get it going and then moved it down a couple so it appeared nice and tight.
Image

Image

I also soldered the pin to the wire. This might seem a bit over the top but the thing is, like most things Molex, insertion is free but the tool to release the clips and extract it again costs a fortune and I didn't want to snag the wire on something, yank it out of the pin, and end up with an empty pin in the connector: that would be disastrous. So I lightly tinned the end of the wire before I crimped it, then flowed some solder onto it and finally crimped the insulation when it was cool enough.

As mentioned above, I originally bought 3 meters of 1mm wire but I soon found that the size of the insulation meant that I couldn't get the pin far enough into the connector, so I soldered on a couple of meters of .75mm I had hanging about and insulated it with shrink wrap tube. On a right-hand drive car you probably only need about 2 meters but I'd still get 3 to be sure.

To insert the pin into the connector you need to release this interlock plate:
Image
Don't ask me what it does because it sure as f.. hell doesn't let you pull the pins out again.

The pin goes into the connector with the open side that you put the wire in facing towards the front of the car (I can't tell you how much sweat it took to work this one out). The pin has to go a long way down into the connector and you can't do this using just the wire (what's that expression, playing pool with a piece of rope?) so, after some searching, I nicked one of my wife's wire hair grips, straightened it out, clipped the bobble off of the end and used that to push the pin. I also used a needlework pin pushed into the bottom of the connector to judge how far down the pin was. There was no reassuring click or anything. I did notice that you can just about see the pin through the hole in the side where the interlock plate was, when you can't see it any more it's in.

As they say, reassembly is the reverse of the aforementioned procedure.

I tried to loom the wire in as best as I could with the existing wiring, I also tidied up the loom with fresh tape and glued down anything loose (that ribbon stuff around the end of the trunking for instance) with a dob of impact adhesive on the end.
Image

Image

Image

On my left-hooker I had to run it in the trunking across the back of the engine bay and down behind the brake servo.

You now need to get the wire into the passenger compartment. I know there are several way of getting a wire through the bulkhead in the Knowledge Base but I looked at where all the wires come through near the pedals and saw what looked like a big blob of mastic, so I started probing it with the first thing that came to hand which was one of the knitting needles that I'd used a couple of times to pull the stereo out. It was pushing 40 degree that day and the mastic was quite soft, with a bit of gentle pressure the needle actually went through the mastic into the engine compartment, exiting where the brake line goes through the inner wing to the l/h front wheel :shock: So I pulled it out, drilled a small hole through it, and used it to pull a couple of feet of single-core telephone wire though, and then I used this to pull the wire into the passenger compartment. Job jobbed, and a lot easier than I thought it would be.

You now need to make of a connector and provide power. For power I used a scotch lock connector to tap into the feed for the brake light switch (on the real thing they use the same fuse), I'm not proud of this and would have preferred something a little better. The problem was there's very little wire you can get to on the bake light feed and, standing on your head reaching up behind the dashnoard, there's a great temptation to take short cuts.

For the connector itself you could probably just use crimped spades but, amongst the wire I had left over from fitting electric seats, I found that the wires used to provide earths to the seat-mounted side airbags use the same red connector, so if you're in the breakers... You'll need both as there's only one wire in each, you can open these ones up (obviously not made by Molex), I had enough spare wire on one to make the feed, the other I just cut the existing wire off and soldered the end of the ecu wire to the spade connector.

Once the redundant brake switch wiring is in place you can carry on with the retrofit procedure outlined above like nothing ever happened :cheesy:
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

2004 D9 2.0 HDi 110 Estate lhd VF38ERHZF81657352 - sold but being very well looked after.
1991 Yamaha TDM850 - fuel leaks galore!
2008 Toyota Recall4 2.0 VVTI ATM LHD JTMBH31V90D007261 - flimsy piece of crap.
1953 Matchless G3LS - It's alive!!

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