How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

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How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by steve_earwig » Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:16 pm

NB: The COM2000 stuff probably only applies to the later D9 with the one-piece unit. These things are very specific (ESP-equipped cars even have one that senses how quickly you're turning the wheel) so make sure you get the right one!

Tools you will need:
T20 torx for center console (2 holding the side panels on underneath the ash tray) and for the steering column cowel (2 underneath by the wheel, the rest is just clipped into place)
10mm socket for the center console (2 screws each side near the back and 2 nuts underneath the ashtray) and COM2000 strap bolt.
2x Thin flat bladed screwdrivers
Coat hanger (or use the screwdriver - see text).
T50 torx for the steering wheel - note: make sure you've got one, most sets only go up to T40.


This is a first for a how-to because it has a soundtrack - I had Audioslave's Set It Off rattling about my head the whole time I was doing this, for some reason...

I was a bit worried about this one, I could imagine getting stuck half-way through unable to do something and being without a car or Worse still, breaking something expensive, so I allowed myself a whole day. However, apart from disconnecting the battery and going and doing something else for an hour, the whole job took me 4 hours. This includes stripping out the centre console so I could clean it in my bath, fixing a leaking tap I noticed there, hoovering a load of fag ash from under the centre console (well I never smoked in it :frown:) as well as cooking and eating my lunch (chicken madrass, yum). It ain't no biggie.

So, first up you have to deactivate the airbag. Haynes says something like disconnect the battery and leave it for "at least" 2 minutes but, as mentioned, I left mine for an hour while I faffed about indoors. The reason for this is the SRS system has a permanently charged (i.e. it's always hooked up to the battery) capacitor in it, in case the battery is destroyed in a collision. So if you immediately start fiddling with it, it could still go off. You next have to disconnect the airbag ECU, which is along side the handbrake under the centre console:
Image
The connector is held in place by that blue lever thing, you have to turn/pull it anti-clockwise and the connector comes out with it. I found that you can undo it without removing the console, to save fiddling about with wires, but it's probably easier if you do.


Now how do you get the air bag/horn pad off? The idea seems to be to thread a small screwdriver through the hole at the bottom of the steering wheel (there is only one and it's very obvious) and push upwards in order to deform a big spring clip and release it from hooks on the pad. I tried with a narrow screwdriver first but it kept slipping off so, in true "here's one I made earlier" style, I used a skewer I'd turned into a screwdriver for undoing tamper proof screws a few years back but a metal coat hanger is more-or-less the same. It's basically hammered flat to make a blade, then had a notch filed in the end of it. Your weapon of choice goes into the wheel about 55mm, so if you go further than that you missed.
Image
Audioslave wrote:He was standing at the rock
Gathering the flock
Getting there with no directions
And underneath the arch
Turned into a march
And there he found a spot to set this f*cker off
It took me three attempts before both sides came undone, you have to push down a bit on the pad, then push up with the screwdriver and then let go of the pad, it should pop up a bit more than usual and that's it free.

There are three connectors to the pad: one each side for the airbag and one feed for the horn. The horn one's just a spade connector but the other two are a bit more complicated and if I hadn't had the new COM2000 to refer to I'd have been stumped. They're plugged in sideways and the back end of the connector bends around and plugs in to the middle of the connector in order to lock it in place (gee, I
hope the pictures do a better job of explaining it):
Image

Image
You prise that bit out and then the connector is free. Pull it *gently* towards the side of the car.

Just the spade to go:
Image

Put it somewhere safe...

With the pad removed you can see the horn connectors - there's 4!! One of mine seems to be hiding behind the green connector...
Image

Mine were badly pitted so I ended up using a needle file on the steering wheel ones, the ones on the pad I just used a bit of fine emery paper on:
Image

Don't forget to hoover any filings out...

Edit: I've since read that applying a dob of silicon grease to the contacts will stop them corroding again.

If that's all you came here to do, skip down to the bit where I'm putting the pad back on (you lucky, lucky...)

Next: The Steering Wheel. First you have to disconnect the horns, that's the grey connector on the right. It's just pushed in a little slot and it's just the usual push clip thing.

The Bisexual guide on Aussie Frogs is different to mine so I ended up marking it in the wrong place (i.e. the mark I made was on the wheel too :oops: ) but, providing you don't turn the wheel while you're removing it, you'd have to be a marmoset to put it back wrong. The bolt isn't tight, I hardly had to stop the wheel turning. Once the bolt is undone, pull it up enough to get to the leads and work them through the hole one at a time. Ate viola!
Image

Now it's time to remove the cowling (hey, it's easier to leave it until now, ok?) Two screws (that's quite a reach up inside TBH, too long for my 'ickle set so I used a my flat bladed screwdriver 'cos it fitted in the screws)

I had to remove my stereo remote, there seemed to be one clip over the top (which didn't fit on the new unit) and the usual push-clip-and-slide-out jobbie behind it. There were 4 connections, two obvious on the outside (as you sit in the seat brown - right, blue - left) and 2 not-so-obvious on the inside. The clip is over the top of the connector, push it up with one screwdriver and gently ease the connector out with the other. I probably don't need to tell you not to pull on the wires...
Image
Oh look, a better view of the airbag connector!

Once all the connectors are, erm, disconnected, undo the 10mm screw holding the sleeve on, two clips on the outer shaft and it's off:
Image
New top, old bottom. I think.

Refitting it is fairly straightforward. Haynes says make sure the indicator switch is in the middle before you try and fit it.

The only thing I had issues with was this:
Image
It seems to be a way of showing that the unit is in the straight ahead position but I wasn't sure if I needed to leave it in. The old one just has two bits of white tape on the boss and one on the body that have to line up but the new one has a thread around the boss which turns this little indicator so it's only pointing at the arrow in one place. I removed it in the end, then I saw there's a cut out for it in the cowling...

Make sure the wires behind the pad can't get trapped by the springs or anything, line it up and give it a push - click!

When it's all back together and you've reconnected the airbag ECU you'll need to reconnect the battery. Rather worryingly Haynes says make sure no-one's in the car first and to reach in through the open driver's door to turn the ignition on. I guess this means if you've f*cked something up the airbag won't take your head off!!
Audioslave wrote:Suddenly a shot
Ripped into his heart
And then he needed some attention
And there he played his card
Going into shock
The last thing that he said was
Set this f*cker off

Anyway, now I know what the "cockatoo" bit means on Aussiefrogs, the COM2000 also seems to house the thing that goes "plip-plop" for the indicators, the thing that goes "diddle diddle diddle" for lights left on and "doh-ray-me" for key left in warnings, all of which sound different on mine now. The indicator stalk feels different, more positive, and it no longer makes worrying crunching noises when it passes straight ahead when your turning it with the indicators going. If I find time I'll take the old one to pieces to see if I can work out what happened and maybe how to prevent it but one thing's for sure: the new one doesn't rattle when you shake it...

Oh yeah, my horns now work, I can't wait :twisted:
Last edited by steve_earwig on Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by mjb » Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:23 pm

Excellent job Steve! I've moved it to the KB for you :cheesy:

Is that a speaker in your new COM2000?
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by steve_earwig » Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:26 pm

Why thankyou yung maaan, seems a bit long to me but I think I've got it all covered.

The speaker's in the front of the old one, it's in the back of the new:
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Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

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1991 Yamaha TDM850 - fuel leaks galore!
2008 Toyota Recall4 2.0 VVTI ATM LHD JTMBH31V90D007261 - flimsy piece of crap.
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by Doggy » Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:34 pm

Brilliant HOWTO Steve 8)

I think I read somewhere that 3 different manufacturers supplied COM2000's and maybe they dont all break.
I can see your old one's a Delphi - who made the new one?

Anybody else know the answer, ( I'm kinda hoping mine might be immune).....
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by Captain Jack » Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:37 pm

Very nice! My stalk is on its way out soon (making loud noises when coming back from left indication to straight) so I guess I'll need to replace it. Would be good to see what actually breaks in it.

What a stupid system, though. What was wrong with the D8 indicators, I'll never know.
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by mjb » Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:43 pm

Captain Jack wrote:What a stupid system, though. What was wrong with the D8 indicators, I'll never know.
European regulations :cry:
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by steve_earwig » Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:59 pm

Never mind the EU, why make them all in one bit? Next it'll be engines (do not buy a Polo...)
dogslife wrote:Brilliant HOWTO Steve 8)

I think I read somewhere that 3 different manufacturers supplied COM2000's and maybe they dont all break.
I can see your old one's a Delphi - who made the new one?

Anybody else know the answer, ( I'm kinda hoping mine might be immune).....
That's the new one, the old one seems to be made by DAV, whoever they are/were. (A quick search yields "Disabled American Veterans" :shock: )

I seem to remember from Service Pox the new ones are either Delphi or Semen's.

Btw I forgot to say I managed to get mine through partspool.com, I just shoved the part number in Google and a dealership in Mansfield came up with one for 85 quid, they didn't want to send it here (too much stuff goes awol from ebay apparently) so they sent it to my bro who sent it out in a plain brown wrapper and somehow it didn't get duty added :smug: :cheesy:
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

2004 D9 2.0 HDi 110 Estate lhd VF38ERHZF81657352 - sold but being very well looked after.
1991 Yamaha TDM850 - fuel leaks galore!
2008 Toyota Recall4 2.0 VVTI ATM LHD JTMBH31V90D007261 - flimsy piece of crap.
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by Welly » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:21 am

Very nice steve 8)

You seem to 'enjoy' the seemingly impossible, most fiddly, awkward jobs and embrace them :cheesy:

Most importantly you get them done right.

A valuable thread for the site.
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by DaiRees » Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:08 am

I think I'll have to change mine, it's still working (with careful operation) but I've noticed that it doesn't want to indicate left on really hot days!! :roll:

Well done Stevo, that'll come in very handy..... :cheesy:
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by 406Iain » Wed Jul 01, 2009 5:34 pm

Nice job,I tried to sort my none working horn ages ago and gave up.
I might give it another bash when ive recovered from my hernia op.
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by Doggy » Wed Jul 01, 2009 10:14 pm

Great How To, Steve 8)
I hope I don't need the COM2000 bit in its entirety, but I'm not betting on it. Pretty sure the horn's gonna need looking at soon :cry:
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by steve_earwig » Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:08 pm

2002 estate? After recent investigations it seems pretty likely I'm afraid. Perhaps you're lucky and it's already bin dun. Then again you could always pretend you're driving a BMW and stop using them...
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

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1991 Yamaha TDM850 - fuel leaks galore!
2008 Toyota Recall4 2.0 VVTI ATM LHD JTMBH31V90D007261 - flimsy piece of crap.
1953 Matchless G3LS - It's alive!!

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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by STALLED » Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:59 am

Early COM2000 units were very troublesome - the original supplier went broke. What ended up happening is that they changed supplier for the units so that's why there are some variations between minor things such as the noise it makes or how it feels (no inuendo, this is a car forum afterall) and the quality greatly improved! They are still expensive bastards to replace when they break...

Read here:

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showth ... ht=COM2000
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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by steve_earwig » Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:09 am

Interesting, but... did nobody think to take one apart before to see what went wrong?

I'm still thinking along the lines of the spring in the base of the stalk, I can imagine that, when canceling from indicating right if the rocker hits the stick hard enough it has enough energy with the weak spring, plus gravity of course, to carry on round and indicate left. But I can't see how they'd jam, unless the pin in the middle of the rocker breaks and the rocker turns sideways. Of course, compared to units I've had apart on other cars these have too many tiny fragile moving parts and it was all bound to end in tears.

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Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

2004 D9 2.0 HDi 110 Estate lhd VF38ERHZF81657352 - sold but being very well looked after.
1991 Yamaha TDM850 - fuel leaks galore!
2008 Toyota Recall4 2.0 VVTI ATM LHD JTMBH31V90D007261 - flimsy piece of crap.
1953 Matchless G3LS - It's alive!!

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Re: How To: D9 Steering Wheel Removal and COM2000 Change

Post by johnboy » Sat May 01, 2010 1:57 am

Did anybody find out what broke inside theres yet? mines failed mot on broken indicator!! :(

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