Having joined the forum and did a bit of research I found that my reluctor rings were cracked and sliding off the drive shafts.
At the time I didn't know what it would take to fix this so I just reseated them in place and then used a bit of Araldite to secure them in place.
And for the most part it worked well, but the juddering kept coming back.
So rather than buy new drive shafts (if it aint broke don't fix it) I decided to do some research into replacement rings having found that there are more than one size used on drive shafts.
I measured mine approx 90mm and luckily found a seller on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0535865530) and ordered two of them.(48 teeth and an inside diameter of 89.9mm)
Then I had to figure out "how in the world was I going to get them fitted"!
And that's where this awesome website comes in yet again.
And as luck would have it MJB had done a fab write up on doing a Clutch change with photos that had most of info I needed! Kudos to his hard work!
So when I started I got a bit carried away and stripped out the whole brake disk assembly and all the hassle of doing one side for the first time cost me almost 4 hours!!!
Suffice to say when I did the second it took less than 1 hour to do
So for those interested this is how I did mine. (URL links are linked to MJB's excellent clutch change post)
- Loosend Wheel nuts
Jacked up car, removed wheel.
Take out split pin and remove hex cap
Replace wheel and put lugs back in (hand tight) and lower car back down.
Then you'll need a damn good 2' + breaker bar with a 35/36mm Socket (I was lucky that my bro-in law has some Aircraft Engineering tools, 1" drive kit ) and like MJB says "You'll Have To Jump On The Breaker Bar"
Once that is loose Jack up car and use axle stands to support car and take wheel off.
Now all you'll need to undo is both the Steering Ball Joint
and the Bottom Ball Joint
and split both joints (Steering arm just moves out of the way, The wishbone needs to be pushed down to allow the Bottom Ball joint to get free)
Once they are both free the strut will now move enough to allow the drive shaft to slip out and will give you enough room to remove your old reluctor ring and install your new one.
Make sure you clean up the old reluctor ring location of rust/debris (araldite in my case )
I heated up the new ring in the oven to help it expand so that it slides over the drive shaft easier but it was still a tight fit so I used a soft mallet to gently knock the ring onto the drive shaft round and round until eventually it's in position.
Then it's just a case of reassembly!
But I'm sure you'll hit a snag like I did with the steering ball joint spinning when trying to tighten it back up (The bottom ball joint has a hex in the base of the bolt making life so much easier)
I had to roughen up the ball joint tapered shaft so that it gripped the strut and then I was able to tighten it back up correctly.