How to: Diesel Particle Filter Removal

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How to: Diesel Particle Filter Removal

Post by Doggy » Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:27 pm

Now that a fully tested method exists to completely remove the DPF system, I thought I would condense the various posts down to one, comprehensive HOW-TO - here goes....

The diesel particle filter, ('DPF' or 'FAP'), requires cleaning or replacement periodically, (typically 50k, but varies wildly according to driving conditions), the Eolys additive also needs to be topped up & counters reset by your friendly, not-for-profit, Pug dealer. This little lot can set you back £600 or more.

The system is as shown below:

Item 11 is the CAT c/w downpipe & flexy section: 12 is the DPF

On the car, it looks like this:


Once it's removed, the inside looks like this:

(It's also bl00dy heavy).
The filter element was then knocked out, leaving debris like this:


Inside now looks a little more free flowing.....


and MUCH lighter - 4.1 kg lighter, in fact!

Got it re-fitted & then MOT'ed - passed the emissions test easily, (limit is 3.5, actual value 1.14, don't know the units, mg/m3 or ppm)?

Needless to say - it's not that simple. :roll: After a couple of months, I got a permanent ANTIPOLLUTION FAULT & limp mode. :cry:

I assumed that the only way to get to the bottom of what it was unhappy about would be via dealer diagnostics, so bought myself a Lexia / PP2000 clone on eBay for £ 155, then couldn't get it to work on my car, though it worked on virtually every other Pug I tried...(more later).

One of the guys on the coupe club, then made THE BREAKTHROUGH

The FAP code can be deleted from the ecu file using software called 'Ecusafe'. (This isn't generally available, but there were some bootleg versions to be had a while ago). Anyway, one of the coupe guys posted how to do it and a second posted links to example files, with and without the FAP deleted.

Unfortunately, one of the posts linked to examples of 180 bhp remapped files, (also with & without FAP), which the coupe mods felt exposed their forum to possible legal action by the tuning company that had produced the files originally. As a result, virtually all the info has been taken down and continues to be removed whenever anything is posted on the subject.

It's not my intention to post anything similar here, but if interested forum members PM me, I'll try to point them in the right direction.

(Yours truly just happened to be lurking in their neck of the woods during this, 'window of opportunity'). :twisted:

You will also need an ecu flash-programming lead to enable you to copy files to & from your car's ecu via the EOBD port. I used a Galletto 1260, purchased via eBay for about £ 25. I understand a KWP2000 will work too, perhaps there are other compatible, 'ecu flashers' out there?

The Galletto is a little interface box, which plugs directly into the EOBD port, (hidden behind the cover next to the headlight height adjusting switch), plus a USB lead to plug into your laptop. Comes with a mini DVD with the software and absolutely no instructions. I took a guess and just copied everything to a folder I'd created under Program Files, (called Galletto), & knocked up a desktop shortcut pointing to EOBD1260.exe & it worked.

.....Or at least the software started up, but it wouldn't talk to my car either, just like the PP2000 clone we mentioned earlier. :cry:
But there was now a clue - the Galletto has a red LED which should light when you plug it into the car - mine didn't. Eventually, discovered this was down to a blown fuse in the engine fusebox, that powers the 'vehicle' side of the interface. Fuse replaced and Galletto
can now 'find' the car. Needless to say PP2000 worked now too. :roll:

Using PP2000, I read the engine ecu fault codes - there were about 5 separate messages, all relating to the additive ecu. I cleared all the faults, but didn't start the engine so they wouldn't come back.

Next, I swapped to Galletto and copied my original ecu file off the car at least three times saving each on different media after checking all reported the same checksum via Galletto, so fairly sure I could restore it if need be.

Then I copied a standard 136 bhp no-FAP file I'd got via the coupe forum links to the ecu, started her up and hey presto - no faults, no limp mode, happy doggy. 8)

I have now covered about 4k miles with no problems whatsoever.

I've also checked the car with PP2000 - I won't go into detail, but it's obvious it no longer 'cares' about the DPF. It also makes no attempt to regenerate it, thus avoiding the fuel wasted in this operation. The car just behaves as if the FAP never existed. 8)

Though I have not yet done this, I am sure it is now possible to remove the various sensors, additive tank, additive injector, additive ecu and so on.

Since completing the work on my car, I came by a copy of Ecusafe and can confirm it will disable the FAP system in seconds, generating a no-FAP file ready to download. Works for just about every other car too, as far as I can tell.

To recap, the process involves physically removing the guts from the DPF or 'FAP' AND re-programming the engine ecu to delete the FAP system. It can be done in this order, or the software can be done first, but recognise that without active regeneration, the FAP will block, probably within a few hundred miles, perhaps sooner.

You don't necessarily need access to PP2000, but it may be needed to clear some faults.

You don't have to have your own Galletto, but as it's so cheap and lets you upgrade or restore the original files at will, I definetely recommend it.

BE CAREFUL! It is possible to lock the ecu if anything goes wrong during the flashing process, leaving an ecu in need of specialist attention and a dead car!

mods - please use this to replace the original 'How TO: Diesel Particle Filter Removal- The Final Solution?' in the KB
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate